The Successful Collector, by Julian Hitner: Wine education for us all – Blind Wine Tasting

A good skill – but not the only skill:

Julian Hitner

For professional wine tasters, the art of tasting wine ‘blind’ is an invaluable skill. By tasting different wines without knowing what they are, the playing field is leveled, so that two wines, even if one of them is priced twice as much as the other, are judged without any preconceived biases. In the best wine publications and judging contests around the world, most wines are evaluated in this manner.

Just as significant, no skill among professional sommeliers is more admired than the ability to identify wine simply by examining the contents in the glass. It is a skill only the greatest professional wine tasters are able to master with any degree of repetitive success (a skill largely maintained by tasting wine this way on a regular basis), while the rest of us cannot help to look upon such an ability with acute approbation.

This said, the ability to taste wine blind is hardly the be-all and end-all of fine wine appreciation. Though many of my colleagues have been in the business many years longer than me, I am hopeful that the majority of them would agree with the notion that there is only a very minor correlation in the ability to taste any given wine blind compared to any increased enjoyment derived from the process of actually drinking it in like manner.

To elaborate on this requires the invention of a new phrase: ‘blind drinking.’ Say I head down into my cellar to fetch a bottle of claret. I retrieve a bottle of the immaculate ‘83 Château Margaux and serve it to my guests. Over the course of the evening, the wine earns endless plaudits and only seems to get better as we wile away the hours in comradely and merriment.

Now let me ask this question: would not this experience have been at least somewhat diminished had we decided to ‘blind drink’ this wine? Would not the evening have been less of a special occasion had a third party retrieved a bottle from my cellar at random, decanted it and placed it on the table, so that none of us would know what the wine is?

The point I’m trying to make is that tasting, or serving, wine blind has its limits. Oftentimes, the most joyous attribute of fine wine appreciation isn’t derived from deciphering what a wine is, but knowing precisely what it is beforehand. Granted, my guests and I would have probably had great fun spending an evening trying to guess what fabulous wine we were drinking. But I submit it was of far greater joviality in knowing that we were sitting down to one of the finest clarets of the early-eighties at the start of the evening than learning about it at the end. Though some may claim otherwise, great wine consumed under the veil of uncertainly just isn’t the same as knowing what it is from the start. Even the anticipation, or planning stage, involved in serving a fine wine plays a potentially profound level of importance in its eventual enjoyment.

Such is the Achilles heel of tasting wine blind, in that there is no guarantee of any enhancement if consumed in like fashion. Of course, this is not meant to diminish the immense skillfulness of professional tasters and their unique ability to taste wine blind. Indeed, it is a great skill – it’s just not the only skill.

Julian Hitner

A few of Julian’s gems for collectors from recent VINTAGES Releases:

Château La Louvière Blanc 2009, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France: Owned by André Lurton and widely recognized as one of the best non-Premier Cru estates in Pessac-Léognan, the wines of Château La Louvière have taken on greater seriousness and heft in recent years. Pale-light lime in colour with the slightest touch of straw, the ’09 Blanc reveals extremely delicate, elegant scents of citrus-infused green fruits, heather, minerals, mild chalky elements, and a hint of orange peel and spice. Complex, boasting exquisitely textured, immensely refined fruit, balanced acidity, and a superb hint of lemon, green fruits, and ‘mellow’ lanolin overtones on the finish. Outstanding finesse, style, and breed. The vineyard is planted to 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon. Now-2023.

Henri Bourgeois 2010 La Chapelle des Augustins, Sancerre AOC, Loire, France: In all likelihood the greatest Sancerre I have yet to taste from Henri Bourgeois, the 2010 La Chapelle des Augustins represents a sensational effort. Very pale lime in colour, the wine exhibits irresistibly intense scents of green fruits, lemon citrus, delicate tropical elements, minerals, and an almost Marlborough-styled hint of gooseberries and grapefruit. Complex, delivering impeccable bracing fruit, balanced acidity, and a pitch-perfect hint of intense green fruits, lemon, and minerals on the finish. Outstanding harmony, clarity, and textural disposition. Now-2018+.

Château Bouscaut Blanc 2009, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France: Acquired by Lucien Lurton in 1979 and now run by his daughter Sophie, I have only recently become familiar with the charms of this slowly improving estate. Pale-light straw in colour with a touch of gold, the 2009 Bouscaut Blanc reveals exceptional scents of lemony apricots, starfruit, pears, delicate lanolin, and a hint of white chocolate, candlewax, and spice. Complex, with beautiful, elegant dry fruit, balanced acidity, and a refined, upright hint of lemony apricots, lanolin, and candlewax on the finish. Great focus, stylization, and balance. The vineyard is planted to 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sémillon. Now-2018+.

L’Aventure 2010 Côte  Côte, Paso Robles, California: Unashamedly Parkerized, the 2010 Côte  Côte is actually one incredible wine—best enjoyed in fortified-like quantities. Extremely dense black-ruby in colour, this massive offering delivers supersaturated aromas of blackberry compote, plums (slightly floral), blueberries, licorice, smoked meats, pipe tobacco, leather, incense, vanilla, and spice. Complex, possessing incredibly sumptuous, decadent fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a long-lasting, unbelievably powerful hint of blackberry compote and blue fruits on the finish. Supremely rich, fully flavoured, and surprisingly harmonious as a whole; this will appeal to very specific types of collectors. 42% Grenache, 34% Syrah, and 24% Mourvèdre. Now-2025+.

L’Aventure 2010 Estate Cuvée, Paso Robles, California: Even at 16.1% alcohol, the 2010 Estate Cuvée is surprisingly even-keeled—understandable when considered that virtually all of its other characteristics have been strengthened accordingly. Extremely dense black-ruby in colour with purple highlights, it exhibits hedonistic, ultra-powerful aromas of white- and dark chocolate-driven blackberry treacle, crème de cassis, freshly brewed coffee (the expensive kind), tobacco, forest floor, dessert nougat, licorice, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, with massively concentrated fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and an extremely lengthy, well-structured hint of chocolate and blackberry treacle on the finish. Unbelievably Parkerized, delicious, and alluring. 42% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 16% Petit Verdot. Now-2028.

Château Gloria 2009, St-Julien AOC, Bordeaux, France: Compared to the ’10 (tasted very recently), the 2009 Château Gloria is definitely the more boisterous of the two, and is unquestionably the greatest wine ever produced at this estate. Opaque black-ruby in colour, it presents stellar multilayered aromas of currants, espresso, licorice, forest floor, graphite, grilled meats, asphalt, subtle floral elements, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, boasting brilliantly textured fruit, very firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a graceful, pitch-perfect hint of currants, graphite, and dried blueberry nuances on the finish. Exceptional depth, finesse, focus, and harmony. 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. Now-2036+.

More more reviews visit our Critics profile page: Julian Hitner

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Blind Tasting, Julian Hitner, Wne education

Maclean’s launches “Wine in Canada”; Special Offer for WineAlign Members

Wine in Canada – a tour of our country’s finest wine regions

To celebrate the passion, ingenuity and achievement of Canadian winemaking, Maclean’s has spent the past 12 months to develop “Wine in Canada”, the first annual national publication that takes Canadians on a tour of our country’s finest wine regions, their latest releases, innovative pioneers, hottest trends and hidden gems.

Contributed by some of Canada’s leading sommeliers, including John Szabo MS, Rhys Pender MW, Kurtis Kolt, Treve Ring, and Erin and Courtney Henderson, “Wine in Canada” brings together the land, the people, the culture, the wine and the food through colourful photography and vivid articulations.

“WineAlign readers know that I take Canadian wine seriously. I’ve watched the industry boom over the past couple of decades, evolving from local curiosity to world-recognized wine producer. Maclean’s, one of the nation’s leading news media, has also identified Canadian wine as worthy of a critical and investigative eye – an important addition to our business and cultural landscape, and a sign of its coming of age. With two WineAlign team members consulting on the project, BC’s Treve Ring and myself, you can be sure that, from coast to coast, no stones were left unturned.” John Szabo MS

Raising Awareness

Together with industry partners, Wine Country Ontario and Wines of British Columbia, Maclean’s is committed to raising awareness of Canada’s wine and wine tourism industry. It has never been a better time to share the inspiration and potential of our Vineland.

“This was a great project to work on, the first to cover the Canadian wine scene from so many perspectives. From travel, tourism and local gastronomy, to the history and future of Canadian wine, its hard business realities, who the current movers and shakers are, and of course the most representative, currently available bottles from every wine producing region, this is a brilliant and timely resource for anyone with even a passing interest in locally grown wines, up to the die-hard supporters.” John Szabo MS

Special Online Offer

WineAlign members are invited to join this journey of discovery and savour the joy in each glass with Maclean’s.

Simply click here to order and receive a 25% discount off your purchase of “Wine in Canada” online today.

Special offer ends May 20.

 

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, John Szabo, MacLean's, Wine Country Ontario, Wines of British Columbia

David’s Take on Private Wine Retailing in Ontario: Getting Beyond the Vested Interests

It could have turned into a bun fight.

David Lawrason

On Thursday, May 9 the vested interests in Ontario’s beverage alcohol industry gathered at an Economic Club of Canada luncheon at Toronto’s Delta Chelsea Hotel to hear why the province should move to a mixed public/private retail model of selling wine, beer and spirits.

Speaker Ian Baillie, executive director of ABLE, an association and lobbyist for private beverage alcohol retailers in British Columbia, delivered a vision based on the B.C. model, where about two-thirds of the 1,400 beverage alcohol retail outlets are now in private hands.

He was sponsored by the Wine Council of Ontario, an association of smaller Ontario wineries that is lobbying for private wine stores through a website called www.mywineshop.ca. The wineries are needing new retail outlets for their growing number of products, which the one-stop LCBO is not able to handle effectively, despite recently announced initiatives that are too little, too late.

There were many Ontario winemakers in the audience, but virtually all other vested interests were in the room as well – importers, beer and spirits reps, hoteliers and restaurateurs, MPPs and the LCBO itself. No party leaders.

I will get to some of Ian Baillie’s key points in a moment, but first an observation based on audience reaction during a question and answer session. If the Q&A had not been shut down by the Economic Club’s moderator it could have turned into something nasty.

There is a cauldron of pent-up passion around this issue – so many different viewpoints, truths, and ways to interpret facts and figures. It is very complex. And the feelings have been entrenched for years, decades – virtually since the LCBO was established at the end of Prohibition. I just don’t see how these parties will ever come to a consensus. If it is left to the vested interests it won’t get done.

Ontario one day? Supermarket wine section,
Wellington, New Zealand

The solution needs to come from the will of consumers. The Wine Council says 70% of Ontario favour some level of privatization. That needs to be expressed through an election of a party that presents a clear and balanced, consumer-based vision and has the courage to act. The Conservatives seem closest now, but at one point under Premier David Peterson it was the Liberals.

The benefits of privatization were made plainly evident to the current Liberal government in a 2005 beverage alcohol review they themselves commissioned, then shelved. They turtled in the face of protest by the vested interests – the union, the LCBO bureaucracy, and the largest financial stakeholders who prosper handsomely under the LCBO monopoly.

There are clarion benefits to privatization – primarily vastly increased selection and improved service guided by the forces of open competition. There would be growth in production, distribution, retailing revenue, job and government revenues. It is also clear that the government can increase revenues without running the stores, and they can regulate the industry as they please to serve social responsibility concerns.

Baillie’s Key Points

Public/Private Retailing? Mr. Baillie was promoting B.C.’s politically expedient, mixed public/private retailing model – not the Alberta model wherein all retail is in private hands, with government’s role moved to wholesaling, distribution and regulation. The B.C. compromise is most likely what will happen in Ontario.

I prefer Alberta’s model. I don’t believe government should be in competition with the private sector, or that government can do it as well as private enterprise.

Either way, I strongly believe that it is government’s responsibility to properly regulate and license beverage alcohol; to test product safety and to educate the public about its hazards, especially if government is paying the medical costs of alcohol abuse. But let’s not confuse this responsibility with the need for government to be a retailer.

Government Revenue – Ian Baillie made the startling assertion – oft Tweeted in recent days – that if Ontario, with roughly three times the population of B.C., were to adopt the B.C. model, it would deliver 1.1 billion dollars more per year to provincial coffers than it is doing now – 2.7 billion as opposed to 1.6 billion.

The formula and figures were vehemently debated on the floor, but two things were clear. First, the province will not lose revenue by introducing privatization (B.C. has not, in fact its revenues are growing annually under the public/private model). Second government still has the ability to raise taxes as it sees fits to ensure that revenues would not be lost. I for one would not be totally against this as the price of privatization.

Social Responsibility - Mr. Baillie went to great lengths to promote the idea that social responsibility is also a business responsibility of private retailers. He emphasised that all the provincial rules apply in terms of not serving those under 19, and that retailers are trained to enforce them.

He also described a B.C. regulation that new private stores must be built a minimum of 1km from the nearest store, to prevent certain neighbourhoods having too many stores or “liquor stores on every corner”.

Corner Stores – It is very interesting that Ontario’s historical alternative vision to the LCBO is “corner store wine and beer sales”, perhaps a model assumed due to the nearness of Quebec’s ‘dépanneurs’.  Baillie dismissed allowing alcohol sales by convenience stores as socially irresponsible because it would be almost impossible and very costly to monitor 10,000 stores in the province.

Corner stores as the only alternative for Ontario would, in my opinion, be the worst possible option for a different reason. I want to see wine sold in responsibly run convenience stores, in grocery stores and supermarkets, and in fine wine shops – and I want to see the entire range of price and quality that would ensue, with retailers free to serve their constituents as they see fit, and consumers free to shop how and where and for what they want.

How Many Stores? -  Baillie mentioned that B.C. has recently capped the opening of new stores beyond the 1,400 store level. The government has deemed that level adequate for B.C.’s population of 4.4 million people, or one store for every 3,100 people. By contrast, Ontario currently has roughly 1,200 LCBO, Beer Stores and winery stores serving 13.3 million people, one store for 11,000 people. So it is a no brainer that the LCBO is under-serving us, and that privatization in Ontario would see a boom in store creation and employment.

So how do we get government to brave this debate and make the right choice – a choice that people the world over have already made, or never even felt it necessary to make in the first place? Closer to home, if this idea is right works in Vancouver, Victoria, Vernon, Edmonton, Calgary, Lethbridge, Peace River, Winnipeg, Brandon and Halifax – why on earth will it not work in Toronto, Ottawa, Windsor and Thunder Bay? Even Pennsylvania, a bastion of Dutch protestant conservatism in the U.S. made the move most recently.

Successful precedent alone should be all the political fodder our legislators require.

But to nudge them along consumers need to organize and get vocal, as do media editorialists who claim to represent “the people”. Major papers have actually begun writing about this more frequently. And it could be fanned by an LCBO employees strike that could come on May 17. But beyond that consumers need to organize themselves and petition their MPPs.

And if possible Ontario’s cooler-headed vested interests could try to form an organization, like B.C.’s ABLE, to carry a unified voice to Queens Park. ABLE represents private wine store owners, hotels, restaurants and pubs – any business in the business of selling beverage alcohol. Based on what I heard in reaction to Baillie’s speech I am not sure this is possible in Ontario, but there must be some reasonable, willing and articulate people willing to step forward under common cause from all these camps.

Good luck to us all.

David Lawrason
VP of Wine

A downloadable copy of his Mr. Baillie’s speech is available here.

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, David Lawrason, LCBO, My Wine Shop, Ontario Wine

Mother’s Day: Give the gift of rest, appreciation – and wine, of course!

Sara d’Amato

Recently I became a mother for the third time with the birth of little Jasper a mere eight weeks ago. Despite the haze of newborn-dom I am back to tasting wine. The most valuable asset a mother has is the ability to multitask. In fact, while I write this I am also playing Lego and making blueberry pancakes. With renewed sympathy and appreciation for mothers everywhere, and especially my own, I would like to offer a few suggestions to all of you wracking your brains to come up with the perfect mother’s day solution. And although I realize that writing this piece may be somewhat (hopefully) self-serving (hint hint), I can assure you from ample personal experience that these suggestions will not go unappreciated.

The theme of these wine recommendations is relaxation, something that might come naturally to most people, but that many mothers learn to live without, at least as long as they have children under their roofs. What we mothers want from Mother’s Day is simple: rest and appreciation. No need for expensive gifts or elaborate surprises. And if your mom is anything like me, a nice round glass of aptly-chosen wine is the very symbol of relaxation. Whether you are planning a home-cooked brunch or allowing mom some free time at home alone, a bottle of wine will never be unwelcome.

Brunch Worthy:

Treating mom to a home cooked meal is a tried and true practice on Mother’s Day. But to go the extra mile and pair brunch with a memorable bottle of wine will win yourself a multitude of points. To whet your palate, here are a few praiseworthy suggestions:

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Blanc De Blanc 2007
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, ON $44.95

Not only will this newly redesigned, gorgeous bottle dress up your table, it will add class to your affair. A mistake would be attempting to make this into a mimosa, however, so stay away from the OJ and let the wine alone impress. Pair with blini, crème fraiche and caviar for a decadent match.

Tilia Torrontes 2010
Salta, Argentina, ON $12.95

Fun, fresh, floral and unique, this affordable selection is also sure to receive thumbs up from moms everywhere. Skip the bouquet and reach for the Torrontes for a fresh alternative to her usual faves. Try with Thai inspired cold spring rolls.

Ca’Dei Mandorli Dei Giari Moscato D’asti 2011
Piedmont, Italy, ON $15.95

Here’s a wine that will have mom asking for a second glass and with half the alcohol as in a standard glass of wine, there is no reason not to indulge (an apt selection for nursing mothers). Pair with a lemon panna cotta or mixed greens with strawberries and almonds.

Château St. Roch Syrah/Grenache Rosé 2011
Languedoc Roussillon, France Vintages, ON $14.95

Both the ladies and the men of the house will appreciate this swoon-worthy rosé from southern France. Dry with notes of lavender and pink grapefruit, this will prove a delightful pairing for smoked salmon eggs benedict.

Contemplative Whites

Taking the kids out for ice cream and allowing mom some peaceful time alone to rest and relax is just the thing to recharge the overworked lady of the house. Leaving her a bottle of wine and a charming note will have her smiling in no time. Here are a few restorative suggestions:

Norman Hardie Chardonnay 2009
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, ON $35.00

An intuitive, generous and thoughtful family man himself, Norman Hardie also produces world-class chardonnays rich with terroir-inspired complexity, subtlety and elegance. A great wine to help mom contemplate and appreciate her generous and thoughtful family.

Santo Santorini Assyrtiko 2011
Santorini, Greece, ON $16.95

Whisk mom away to one of the most beautiful spots in the world for some restorative daydreaming. The island of Santorini is perhaps the planet’s most picturesque locale with a dramatic coastline dotted by whitewashed dwellings that contrast the deep blue sea. As a result of its volcanic formation, the beaches feature jet-black sand and contribute to the complex terroir of these racy and verve-filled wines such as this scintillating assyrtiko.

Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2011
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, ON $19.95, BC $16.99

An undeniably inviting wine that will both challenge and seduce, this delectable pinot is made in the heavier, more complex ‘gris’ style as opposed to the often lighter, brighter, more simple ‘grigio’ style. The west coast produces some of the most exquisite examples of this varietal and this bottle is a case in point. Utterly enjoyable on its own but also makes a great pairing for soft and semi-soft cheeses.

Melt-Away Reds:

Pampering goes hand and hand with Mother’s Day so spoil her with an indulgent, enveloping, plush, velvety wine that will prove more satisfying than the spa. Sure to keep her off her feet for the afternoon while you finish the clean up (hint, hint).

Château Pech Redon L’épervier 2010
Côteaux Du Languedoc, France, ON $19.95

A strikingly soulful and compelling find at less than the price of a manicure (and much more rewarding). This spicy, wildly flavoured southern blend of syrah and grenache will prove both stimulating and indulgent.

Langa Centenaria Garnacha 2008
Calatayud, Spain, ON $13.95

A massage and a bottle of grenache would do the trick for me on Mother’s Day and here’s a great value that is sure to knock her socks off. A decadent, almost guilty pleasure, this grenache is a perfect pairing for a little dark, spiced chocolate.

Monte Del Frá Lena Di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Veneto, Italy, ON $48.95, BC $79.99

This wine is certainly a splurge, but this is mom we’re talking about. Amarone is often thought of as a ‘masculine’ wine but in reality, women appreciate the lush, velvety texture and opulent fruit just as much as men and with reportedly more sensitive noses, we can certainly derive greater enjoyment from such a generously flavoured wine.

Here’s to all mothers out there who could really use a break! Wishing you a peaceful and indulgent day.

Sara d’Amato

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, BC Liquor Stores, LCBO, Mother's Day, Sara d'Amato, Vintages, Wine

Feisty Spirited Armagnac; Margaret Swaine’s Spirits Review

Feisty Spirited Armagnac

Margaret Swaine

Armagnac from the Gascony region of south-western France doesn’t play second fiddle to its more famous spirituous neighbour to the north, Cognac. Documents prove Armagnac was distilled over 700 years ago around 1411, making it by far the oldest eau de vie in the country and beating Cognac to the puncheon by some 150 years. It’s feisty, distinctive and individualistic like the Gascons portrayed in The Three Musketeers and Cyrano de Bergerac.

Armagnac’s heritage is the marriage of three great cultures: the Romans who introduced the grapevine to Gascony, the Moors who brought alembic distillation (they used the alcohol to make perfume) and the Celts who taught the Gascons about oak barrels. By the late 15th century, Armagnac stills were common in Gascony.

Gascony, about an hour and a half drive southwest of Bordeaux is still a highly agricultural region. The department of Gers in the region is the number one producer of duck in France. You know what that means: duck confit, magret, grattons (crispy duck skin), cassoulet and of course foie gras is on the menu. Duck fat replaces oil and butter in cooking. These artery plugging dishes are miraculously neutered by a glass of Armagnac after a meal. (In 2005 researchers at the University of Bordeaux discovered Armagnac drunk moderately and regularly helps prevent heart attacks and thrombosis. Further studies showed rats on a high fat diet and Armagnac did not gain weight versus rats on the same diet that got only the ethanol.)

Armagnac is produced from the distillation of white wine. Ten grape varieties can be used but in practice most growers cultivate just four: ugni blanc (also called Saint-Émilion), colombard, folle blanche (aka piquepoul) and baco blanc (also known as baco 22-A). Folle blanche was once the favoured grape in the area but it has been mostly replaced by baco blanc, a cross of folle blanche and the hybrid Noah. The highly acidic ugni blanc is the common grape used for cognac.

The Armagnac Appellation Contrôlée was defined in 1936 and comprises of three regions. The most important is Bas Armagnac (57% of vineyards), which has a sandy, silt soil structure that yields grapes of higher acid making generally rounder, supple Armagnac with finesse and a characteristic plum fruitiness. Ténarèze (40% of vineyards) is in the centre of the appellation and produces the most robust, rich brandies with aromas of violets. Haut-Armagnac (3%) produces brandies of lower quality and most growers have switched to corn, wheat, soybean and other crops.

Some producers like Larressingle marry the brandies of Bas Armagnac and Ténarèze to create a blend that captures both the robust warmth of Ténarèze and the mellow, fruity elegance of Bas Armagnac. Larressingle XO is a divine example.

Centuries ago Armagnac was distilled twice in pot stills. Since the first half of the 19th century, most Armagnac is made in a simple continuous alembic column still in a single distillation. Mobile distillers still service small farmers quickly performing the alchemic conversion in a few days. Since 1972, pot stills have been permitted in the appellation as well as double distillation but less than a handful do this.

As soon as the Armagnac is distilled, it’s placed in 400 litre oak casks for aging. The famed local oak (black oak) is in limited supply today and many producers now purchase barrels made from staves from forests further north, such as Limousin and Tronçais. (A Gascony legend states that casks should be made from oaks that have watched the vines grow but alas for many today this is no longer practical.)

Once the barrels are filled, the true transformation begins as the spirits age and first take on vanilla notes, which change to caramel and then toffee. Floral notes dissipate with time and flavours and aromas of dried fruits such as prune develop. With more age come nutty aspects and rancio notes akin to aged sherry. Armagnac in fact needs time to tame its feisty character. While the law says two years minimum, many are blends of multiple vintages. The spirits in bottles marked VSOP or Reserve are a minimum of five years old , the youngest in an XO, Napoleon, Extra or Vieille Reserve blend is six and that of Hors d’Age is ten and older.

In reality, some of the oldest in a blend can be much more aged than the law requires. The delightful Armagnac de Montal VSOP for example has brandies that have aged in French oak up to 20 years. The classy Domblat Napoléon 10 Year Old, is just that, and the label indicates it was bottled on July 5, 2012 from cask #4-5. Bas Armagnac Castarède 20 Year Old XO is still lively, perfumed with violets and lavender yet with power and length. Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac Napoléon boasts a minimum of 10 year old brandy and with its great price and sweet approachable warmth, it’s the fastest selling Armagnac in America.

However my favourite are the vintage dated Armagnac, which must all come from the harvest of the stated year. Cognac producers were only given the right to produce single vintage eau-de-vie in recent years. Armagnac on the other hand has been producing them since the beginning. It’s a special thrill to purchase a birth date vintage for a loved one or for pure self indulgence. Producers such as Chabot have stocks that date back to 1888. When you buy a vintage Chabot, it comes with a parchment paper sealed around the bottle with wax that certifies the exact year of harvest and the exact day and year of bottling. All brandies only age while they are in barrel so the date of bottling is a clear indication of the actual “taste” age of the product. The elegant, complex Chabot 1982 I tried was bottled July 12, 2012 and it showed all the beauty of age. Armagnac de Montal 1993 is elegantly aristocratic with ginger notes in the finish.

Normally I throw out a bottle once it’s empty. Not so for my Vintage Armagnac from my birth year. Those who see the bottle on display in my house pretty much can guess why I’ve kept it around. The allure of Armagnac trumps vanity.

Cheers!

Margaret Swaine

For all of Margaret’s picks click here: Margaret’s Whisky and Spirits

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Spirits, Armagnac, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, SPirits, Vintages

Profiling New Zealand’s Top Producers, by John Szabo

Profiling New Zealand’s Top Producers

John Szabo, MS

In light of the upcoming New Zealand Wine Fair rolling out across Canadian cities starting this week, this report takes you on a tour through New Zealand’s principal wine regions and highlights some of my top producers in each. All those listed below are represented (somewhere) in Canada, and I’ve listed the agents who represent them wherever possible. The fair hits Vancouver on April 29, Québec City on May 6, Montreal on May 7 and Toronto on May 9. There are both trade and consumer portions in each city, so plenty of access for all. Visit nzwine.com to see the list of producers who will be in each city and to register.

Some, but not all of my recommended producers will be represented at the fairs, so contact the agents directly to find out what’s currently in stock. I’ve also provided links to each producer’s website for your convenience, plus some individual links to reviews on WineAlign. For all my New Zealand wine reviews, please visit my Critic page on WineAlign. Make sure to check “Show wine with zero inventory” and “all Sources” as many of these are only available through the Agent listed.

The bottom line: there’s so much more quality NZ wine available in Canada than what’s on liquor board shelves. Indeed, many of the top small producers are rarely found in government shops, and they’re often the ones most worth tracking down.

New Zealand: Regions & Recommended Producers

New Zealand has just over 34,000 hectares under vine, almost exactly the same acreage as in Champagne, France, to put it in perspective. Although official Geographical Indications are still being mapped out, the New Zealand Winegrowers Association recognizes ten regions in its annual report. For background details on each, visit nzwine.com. Heading roughly north to south, here are the main regions and some of the producers to look for.

Browse by Region: Auckland; Hawkes Bay, Gisborne; Wairarapa/Martinborough; Nelson; Marlborough, North Canterbury; Waipara; Central Otago, Waitaki Valley

Auckland/Northland

Auckland was likely developed as a wine region more for its proximity to a major city rather than particular suitability for viticulture. The climate is virtually sub-tropical, hot and humid, yet there are nevertheless a few exceptions that belie the rule. The region also officially encompasses Matakana and Waiheki Island, the latter a volcanic Island just off the coast from Auckland that’s producing some exceptional, if hard to find wines, with its own unique and highly favorable maritime growing conditions.

Kumeu River Wines

Kumeu River Wines, an estate established in 1944 by Croatian immigrants Mick and Katé Brajkovich, leads the pack in the Auckland area. Generally considered too warm to produce really top-notch wines, Mick’s grandson, winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW and his family continue to defy the odds and consistently deliver some of the best chardonnay in New Zealand.

Agent: Connexion Oenophilia

Review on WineAlign: Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2008

Hawke’s Bay

Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s oldest and second largest wine region (14% of NZ vineyards), with a history stretching back to 1851. Today, it’s known principally for its red wines; the region accounts for nearly 85% of the country’s, cabernet, merlot and blends, as well as syrah. Hawke’s Bay is also home to the 800h hectare Gimblett Gravels sub-appellation, the world’s first based exclusively on soil type. It’s centered on the poor, free draining gravels laid down by the Ngaruroro River, which were exposed after a massive flood in the 1860s stripped away the overlying layers of silt and sand from a clearly delineated section of the plain. Yet it wasn’t until the 1980s that it was realized that grapevines could flourish on these barren soils, as they do on similar gravels on the Left bank of Bordeaux. The region has since taken off since, and pretty much the entire appellation is now planted.

Te Mata Wines

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard

A venerable estate producing one of NZ’s most sought after reds, Coleraine, a cabernet-merlot blend. Also excellent chardonnay Elston and Bullnose syrah, among others.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Reviews on WineAlign:

Te Mata Awatea Cabernet/Merlot 2010

Te Mata Coleraine 2010

Elephant Hill

A relatively new estate in the cooler coastal zone of Hawke’s Bay called Te Awanga. Owned by German couple Reydan and Roger Weiss. In 2006, Günter Thies, ex Managing Director of Schloss Johannisberg, was lured from the Rheingau to join as MD for Elephant Hill. Look for fresh and peppery syrah among other specialties.

Agent: H.H.D Imports

Trinity Hill

Celebrating nearly twenty years as a leading Gimblett Gravels winery, Trinity Hill makes an exciting range of wines from experimental plantings of tempranillo, arneis and montepulciano, as well as one of NZ’s top syrahs under the “Hommage” label. Trinity also makes an excellent “bay blend” of cabernet-merlot.

Agent: Connexion Oenophilia

Craggy Range

Terry Peabody and Steve Smith MW established Craggy Range in 1997, and they quickly moved into the top echelon of NZ producers. Craggy produces a large range of high quality, single vineyard wines from multiple regions in New Zealand. Gimblett Gravels Syrah and Sophia blend are particularly impressive from Hawke’s Bay (see also Martinborough).

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Alpha Domus

Alpha Domus first planted in the Bridge Pa sub-zone of Hawke’s Bay in 1991. Today, the winery makes a solid range of fresh, balanced wines with particularly successful malbec and syrah, along with more traditional Bay Blends.

Agent: Connexion Oenophilia

Sileni Estates

A large but quality-oriented producer in Hawke’s Bay, with vineyards also in Marlborough. The Cellar Selection range offers excellent value in general; the Estate Collection is a step up in quality and price.

Agent: The Kirkwood Group

Other wineries to look for: Sacred Hill, Esk Valley, East Hope Winegrowers.

Gisborne

James Millton & all the necessary equipment of a vigneron

Gisborne is among the warmest viticultural areas in the country. It was also once the largest wine region in NZ, from the early mid seventies until the mid-eighties, based mostly on the short-lived success of Muller-Thurgau sold in bulk. Gisborne has since fallen to 4th largest, accounting accounts for 5% of NZ’s vineyards, but quality has risen dramatically. Loamy alluvial soils with high levels of calcium, boron and magnesium washed down from the upper hills produce voluptuous chardonnay and aromatic whites (viognier and gewürztraminer). Few reds are grown, but at least one-producer, Millton, proves that it can be done at the very highest level. There are only about four estate wineries; the rest under the Gisborne label are made from purchased fruit, or from contract growers, and bottled outside the region.

Millton Vineyards

James and Anne Millton have been growing grapes for 30 years in Gisborne, farming organically from the start. The shift to biodynamics occurred when the Milltons hired a Dutch intern in 1980 to develop an Integrated Pest management program. The intern happened to be trained in biodynamics and left a book behind for the Milltons to read, and they haven’t looked back since. James, by his own admission, is a Virgo, a “control freak”. He’s firmly in the iconoclast category of winemakers, never shy with opinions, yet neither close-minded. There’s a sense of constant searching in Millton, and his wines have shown a philosophical evolution, moving ever-more minimalist over the years. The musical taste of his cellar hands remains in the seventies, however, as evinced by the greatest hits of Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones blasting in the winery as they’re bottle the 2011 Chenin Blanc and I’m tasting with James. Wines from the Clos Ste. Anne vineyard are the top range, and indeed the entire region.

Agent: The Living Vine

Review on WineAlign: Millton Crazy By Nature Dry Flint Chenin Blanc 2009

Other producers to look for: Vinoptima

Wairarapa (Martinborough)

Wairarapa, which means “glistening waters” in Maori, is composed of three distinct growing regions: Masterton, Gladston, and the most important in terms of acreage (2/3), Martinborough. The first vineyards were planted in 1980 on the edge of town by Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyards and Dry River. This is the driest region on the North Island, lying in a rain-shadowed valley tucked between two mountain ranges, inland and north from Wellington. And like Wellington, it’s very windy, and crops are naturally low. Sauvignon blanc, for example, regularly crops at half the average tonnage per acre you’d find in Marlborough. It’s also telling that although Wairarapa accounts for 3% of NZ’s vineyard acreage, it contributes only 1.6% of the national volume.

Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi

Soils are mostly gravel-based alluvials, free draining, though with more water holding capacity than the Gimblett Gravels. Irrigation is not generally needed, especially for older vines. This is a region of mostly small wineries. Pinot noir is the strength of the region, representing about half of plantings. Here the grape yields a concentrated, structured, less fruity and decidedly more savoury style of wine.

Ata Rangi

A pioneering winery in Martinborough established by Clive Paton in 1980, Ata Rangi (“dawn sky”, or “new beginning”) has been farmed using organic sprays from the start, and fully organically since 2010. This is an outstanding range across the board crafted by winemaker Helen Masters, with top NZ Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, among others.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Reviews on WineAlign:

Ata Rangi Petrie Vineyard Chardonnay 2011

Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 2011

Craggy Range

Established by Terry Peabody and Steve Smith in 1997, Craggy Range has grown to become one of New Zealand’s leading premium producers making wines from multiple regions. Both the Martinborough Te Muna Road Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are excellent, though the whole gamut is worth a taste.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Palliser

One of the largest yet still quality-oriented producers in Martinborough, established two decades ago. The Pencarrow range offers good value; the estate range is more serious.

Agent: Pacific Wines and Spirits

Dry River

Ultra-concentrated wines from among the oldest vines in the region, with great depth and purity, built to age.

Agent: Alto Vino

Cambridge Road

Cambridge Road is a small, 5.5-acre estate on the so-called “Martinborough Terrace”, with some of the oldest pinot plantings in Martinborough, up to 30 years. Winegrower Lance Redgwell practices a natural approach to winegrowing, incorporating biodynamic principals, inspired initially by James Millton in Gisborne. These are pure and impressive wines.

Agent: The Living Vine

Other Producers to look for: Escarpment Vineyard, Kusuda Wines, Schubert.

Nelson

Vines first arrived in Nelson in the mid-1800 with German settlers, though the modern era dates to the 1960s, when Viggo du Fresne was granted the 2^nd winemaking license on the South Island. Other pioneers followed: Seifried in 1973, Neudorf in 1978. Today the region is still rather isolated across the hills to the west of Marlborough, and most operations are still family owned. 185 hectares are planted, divided between the unofficial sub-zones of the Moutere Hills, with its heavier, low fertility soils, with enough clay to hold water so that irrigation is not necessary, and the Waimea Plains and its low-lying flatlands, composed of free-draining floodplains and riverbeds, with gravels under alluvial silt loams, where irrigation is essential.

High sunshine hours, coupled with a long, moderate season thanks to warm air flow from Tasman Bay, and cool nights and reasonable rainfall, contribute to making Nelson well-suited to aromatic varieties such as riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.

Neudorf Vineyards

Neudorf has been considered a regional leader since Tim and Judy Finn established the winery on a shoestring budget in 1978. The estate has recently converted to organic farming, and the benefits of old vines are evident: these wines are dense and concentrated, not to mention age-worthy.  Chardonnay and pinot noir are highlights.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Marlborough

Much has been written about Marlborough, so I’ll skip the historical details. The region is still NZ’s largest by a wide margin, its 24,000 hectares representing 66% of NZ’s vineyards. Despite the international success with sauvignon blanc, which still dominates plantings, I got a real sense of innovative spirit permeating even the thickest corporate walls in the region when I visited in February of this year. By their own admission, Marlborough pinot noir growers are ten years behind Martinborough and Central Otago in terms of clonal and site selection and vineyard management. Most of what was planted in the early days in the flat, gravelly soils is best suited for sparkling wine, or at best light and fruity pinot noir – not what most would consider serious or age-worthy pinot. And growers treated the grape as if it were sauvignon blanc, which is like trying to make soufflé and pound cake from the same recipe. But one gets the sense they will catch up quickly, as indeed some growers already have.

James Healy & Ivan Sutherland – Dog Point Wines

The serious pinot action since the early 2000s has moved into the heavier soils of the (north-facing) Southern Valleys, an unofficial sub-zone of the region that really should be called Southern Hills, since that’s where most of the best vineyards are situated. This drier, sunnier side of Marlborough was unplantable until recently due to a lack of water, a situation that was addressed just a decade or so ago by an irrigation scheme. Suitable Dijon clones are replacing earlier clones, planting densities have increased, and farming techniques have been adapted to the foibles of pinot. Some of the results are excellent. At any rate, the Marlborough style is distinct from other regions in NZ, characterized by fresh, red fruit-driven wines with light tannins and bright acids, versus the darker fruit character of Otago or the savoury Martinborough style, for example.

Marlborough sauvignon blanc is also undergoing a radical make-over by serious producers, in an effort both to distinguish their own brands, and to add diversity to what has been a fairly straightforward and homogenous offer from Marlborough for the past twenty years. The cookie-cutter, pungent, overtly grassy, grapefruit and asparagus flavours are being traded in for riper, richer tropical fruit tones, lees contact, and quite often barrel fermentation in mostly old oak, in an effort to add layers of complexity and make the wines more age-worthy. It’s mostly a question of reducing yields and tweaking the harvest time, in addition to of course being in the right site in the first place, and fermenting with wild (or neutral) yeasts as opposed to the commercial yeast strains selected to pump up volume of thiols (the compounds responsible for the sweaty grapefruit aromas). In the words of Ivan Sutherland and James Healy of Dog Point Vineyards, ““If all you’re doing is chasing the cat’s piss [aromas/flavours], you’re going to find yourself with a wine that unravels pretty quickly. Thiols are a short-lived wine aroma component.”

I suspect we’ll see sub-appellations emerge in the not too distant future, as the differences across the region can be quite dramatic where all other things are equal. Already we’ve started to see unofficial sub-regional designations such as Awatere Valley, Wairau Valley and the Southern Valleys appear on labels, and we haven’t even begun to add on further refinements like “upper” and “lower” to these.

Finally, one of the un-written stories about Marlborough, and of New Zealand in general, is the astonishing quality of the chardonnays. Now that it’s cool to like (cool climate) chardonnay again, don’t miss some of the great examples from Marlborough and elsewhere in the country. This pliable variety has adapted well to various conditions, and more serious attention to sites, clones and winemaking techniques is resulting a remarkable range of quality examples. Get these now while the prices for all but the top end wines remain relatively accessible.

Astrolabe

Established in 1996 with winegrower Simon Waghorn at the helm. Grapes are sourced throughout Marlborough, but emphasis on vineyards in the slightly cooler Awatere Valley gives Astrolabe’s sauvignon a particularly pungent, pleasantly herbaceous character.

Agent: Rogers & Company

Aunstfield

Marlborough’s first commercial winery with a 100-year history, Aunstfield focuses on single vineyard wines from sites in the Southern Valleys. These are solid, savoury wines with plenty of character.

Agent: DB Wine & Spirits Inc.

Churton Wines

Sam Weaver – Churton Wines

A former London wine trader and Master of Wine candidate (he passed the tasting), Sam Weaver and his wife Mandy established Churton Wines in 1997 in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough. Sam has plenty of winemaking experience, too, including a stint as chief winemaker for Stoneleigh. The Weavers farm their Southern Valleys vineyard biodynamically, and all wines are 100% estate. Yields are well below the regional average and the range is excellent, with an extra measure of depth and concentration, and purity, across the board.

Agent: Le Sommelier Inc.

Clos Henri

Clos Henri is the antipodean outpost of Sancerre producer Henri Bourgeois, crafting very fine sauvignon blanc and pinot noir from vineyards in the Wairau Valley. The style of sauvignon is neither Loire Valley nor typically grassy Marlborough, but a fine meeting point of old and new world.

Agent: Charton Hobbs

Cloudy Bay Vineyards

Cloudy Bay Vineyards is of course the winery that put Marlborough on the world map back in the late 1980s. After a slight dip in quality, Cloudy bay is back on form with a strong set of recent releases. The 2012 sauvignon is one to watch for, while the Te Koko Sauvignon, wild fermented in barrel with full malolactic was one of the first wines in the region to launch this new style (as discussed in the intro above).

Dog Point Vineyard

Margaret and Ivan Sutherland purchased land at the convergence of the Brancott and Omaka Valleys in 1979 and planted vines. The fruit was initially sold to Cloudy Bay, where Sutherland and his future partner James Healy worked together, until 2003, when the pair left to launch Dog Point Vineyards. Their 100 hectares are farmed organically and hand picked (a rarity in Marlborough). Some fruit still goes to Cloudy Bay, but Sutherland and Healy keep the top, hillside vineyard fruit for their own label. The style is intense and edgy, with lots of lees contact and wild yeast complexity, some of the finest wines in the region.

Agent: Trialto Wine Group

Framingham Wines

Characterful wines from the Wairau Valley, including one of the region’s top rieslings, and an exceptional chardonnay.

Review on WineAlign: 2009 Framingham Chardonnay

Agent: Charton Hobbs

Greywacke

Owner Kevin Judd worked with Ivan Sutherland and James Healy (now of Dog Point) at Cloudy Bay before breaking off to start Greywacke; his first vintage was 2009. Judd now buys 90% of his fruit from Dog Point Vineyards, and makes the wine at their facility. The large range of wines is consistently well above average in terms of quality.

Nautilus Estate

A consistent range of clean, modern, quality wines sourced from all three sub-regions of Marlborough.

Agent: B&W Wines

Vineyard Workers at Seresin Estate

Seresin Estate

A region-leading, authentically biodynamic property making an exceptional range of characterful wines, not to mention beautiful olive oil and tasty vegetables. Seresin provides biodynamic preps to many of the other BD estates in the region. Minimal intervention in the winery occasionally results in idiosyncratic flavours, but these are wines of real depth and class, among the best in Marlborough.

Agent: Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd.

Staete Landt Vineyards

Dutch couple Ruud Maasdam and Dorien Vermass launched Staete Landt Vineyards with the 2000 vintage. They farm 21 hectares in the Wairau valley, producing a compelling range of wines at excellent prices. The Map Maker label is the very good entry range, while the estate range offers premium quality at fair prices.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Other names to look for: Fromm, Hans Herzog, Te Whare Ra (pronounced ‘teh-FAR-eh-rah”).

North Canterbury

The wines of Canterbury, and particularly North Canterbury, were among the most exciting discoveries at Pinot2013. It’s one of the rare places on earth where limestone and clay come together in the right measure to be perfectly suited to pinot noir and chardonnay, along with an appropriate climate, rainfall, and most importantly, the right intrepid souls who are willing to exploit the potential. The region represents less than 1% of total NZ vineyard area, but I suspect that will change as the top wines become better known.

Pyramid Valley Vineyards

Mike Weersing & his limestone – Pyramid Valley Vineyards

After a lengthy quest around the world searching for the right combination of soil and climate to produce meaningful pinot and chardonnay, Californians Mike and Claudia Weersing settled in a small farm on Pyramid Valley Road in 2000. Hundreds of holes dug into the dirt later, they planted 2.2 hectares of pinot noir and chardonnay on south and southwest facing slopes at 12,000 vines per hectare, un-grafted, and farmed biodynamically from day one. Weersing is a deeply thoughtful winegrower, with strong opinions on such things as biodynamics and screwcaps, yet is always willing to question and consider. His aim is to get as far out of the way as possible in winemaking, and nothing other than sulphur dioxide is used, and even that is dosed out as sparingly as possible. He latest searching has led to experiments with clay amphorae imported from Italy. Wines range from sublime to challenging, always intellectually demanding and multi-dimensional. The 800 or so cases produced from the “home” vineyards (Lion’s Tooth, Angel Flower, Earth Smoke and Field of Fire) are supplemented by the “Grower’s Collection”, a range of wines produced from grapes purchased from organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards throughout New Zealand.

Agent: The Living Vine

Bell Hill

Bell Hill is a tiny estate in the Weka Pass of North Canterbury, with just 2ha of super high-density planted vineyards (up to 11,363 vines/ha) on the unique limestone soils of the region. Vines are farmed organically with biodynamic principals employed; wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. I’d put these are the very top of NZ’s wines.

Agent: The Living Vine

Reviews on WineAlign:

2008 Bell Hill Estate Chardonnay North Canterbury

2010 Bell Hill Estate Pinot Noir North Canterbury

2010 Bell Hill Old Weka Pass Road Pinot Noir North Canterbury

Waipara Valley

The Waipara Valley lies south through Weka Pass in a sheltered zone. The lower lying areas of the region are mostly free-draining gravelly moraines well suited to aromatic whites (riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot gris), while the hillsides sites are clay-limestone dominated, where pinot and chardonnay are at their best.

Mountford Estate Vineyard & Winery

A very good range of pinot noir and chardonnay, the best of which are from 20 year old vines planted on a steep, eastern, limestone-rich hillside of the Waipara Valley. “The Rise” and especially “The Gradient” are the vineyard names to watch for. Also exceptional late harvest riesling and pinot gris from the gravelly flats to rival top-notch examples from Alsace.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Reviews on WineAlign:

2009 Mountford Estate Pinot Noir ‘The Gradient’

2011 Mountford Voluptueux Riesling

2011 Mountford Pinot Gris

Pegasus Bay

Matthew Donaldson – Pegasus Bay

One of the original Waipara wineries established in the early 1980s by Ivan and Christine Donaldson, Pegasus bay continues to produce exception quality across their considerable range. It’s still family owned and operated, with sons Matt and Ed now looking after winemaking and marketing respectively. In addition to top notch riesling, pinot noir and chardonnay, the winery boasts one of the region’s best restaurants; during my lunch there I ran into legendary rock star Geddy Lee of Rush and his wife, having a quick bite and tasting – the man knows good food and wine as well as bass guitar and vocals.

Agent: Woodman Wines & Spirits

Bellbird Spring

An up-and-coming Waipara producer owned and operated by the porter family, making reasonable pinot noir, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc. Guy Porter, born in India, raised in the UK, with vineyard and winery experience in Australia, Italy, Spain, and California, has considerable know-how. Yet considering that his first vintage was just in 2008, the best is yet to come. Look for the River Terrace Pinot Noir and the Home Block White, an aromatic white blend.

Agent: The Case For Wine

Other wineries to look for: Tongue in Groove, The Crater Rim, Black Estate

Central Otago (and The Waitaki Valley)

Central Otago is most closely associated with New Zealand pinot noir, even if the first commercial wine to come out of the region was reportedly a riesling in 1986. And riesling remains the real insider’s secret, with some superb examples grown on the predominantly free draining, arid, brown-grey soils with low fertility but high mineral content (quartz, mica, calcium) over schistous bedrock, unique in New Zealand.  Riesling clearly loves it here.

But pinot is of course the main story, yet one that is far from fully developed. Otago is quite spread out, encompassing some 1900 square kilometers, of which 1790 hectares are planted to vines. Pinot accounts for three-quarters, so the emphasis is clear. Considering the large area, it’s not surprising that no fewer than six distinct sub-regions have already been identified, ranging from relatively hot and dry Alexandra which receives about 340mm of rain a year, to the considerably cooler and wetter sub-zone of Wanaka, or the cool and windy Gibbston Valley where pinot can struggle to ripen in some years. The bulk of the 60 or so commercial wineries are centered on Bannockburn, which lies somewhere in between climatically and geographically.  Bendigo and Lowburn are the other two zones.

Rippon Vineyards, Central Otago

Otago has New Zealand’s only true semi-continental climate, protected from prevailing west to east weather patterns by the Southern Alps, yet lying far enough inland (about a 2.5 hour drive) from the east coast that the maritime influence that affects every other NZ region is not felt here. As a result, humidity, and thus disease pressure is low, making organic viticulture far easier than elsewhere in the country. Add in high UV light and plenty of sunshine (the region lies at 45º South, meaning summer days are very long), and the result is thick-skinned, deeply coloured pinots with riper, darker fruit flavours than other parts of NZ, despite a marginally shorter growing season than, say, Martinborough. I particularly enjoyed the fineness of examples from Wanaka (biodynamically-farmed Rippon Vineyards is outstanding) and the Gibbston Valley (look for Valli).

In addition to climatic suitability, it certainly doesn’t hurt that Central Otago is also an astonishingly beautiful place, a fact that the region plays on to promote their wines. The winegrowers’ association tag line, “It’s like nowhere else on earth”, is appropriate. Though as a Canadian wandering around Queenstown, I was reminded of Banff, Alberta, which is of course, a good thing. Too bad vineyards wouldn’t survive in the Rockies.

Carrick Wines

After searching in several other parts of NZ, Steve Green settled on Bannockburn with the single-minded goal of producing pinot when he established Carrick Wines in the early 1990s. The estate now has 24ha of certified organic vineyards, of which 70% is pinot noir with the balance in riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris and sauvignon.  Winemaker Francis Hutt makes a solid range of ‘classic’ Otago pinots, with plenty of dark fruit flavours, but the surprise here was the excellent rieslings in dry, off-dry and medium-dry styles.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Felton Road

Widely considered one of the leading wineries in New Zealand, Felton Road farms several vineyard sites in the Bannockburn and Cromwell areas using biodynamics. Viticulture is meticulous, and winemaking no less precise, even if winemaker Blair Walter’s approach has grown increasingly hands-off as confidence in vineyard sites has grown. The whole range is outstanding, with special thrills from the Block 2 Chardonnay and the Block 3 pinot noir.

Agent: Lifford Wine Agency

Mt. Difficulty Wines

Adventure sport enthusiast and skilled winemaker Matt Dicey crafts a fine range of wines from some of the oldest plantings in Bannockburn, the sub-region where Mt. Difficulty was established in 1992. “Roaring Meg” is the very good entry range; rieslings were a particular highlight, while three single-vineyard pinot noirs – Long Gully, Pipe Clay Terrace and Target Gully – make for a fascinating Burgundian-style terroir comparison.

Agent: Small Winemaker’s Collection

Quartz Reef

Austrian-born winegrower Rudi Bauer specializes in pinot noir, pinot gris and traditional method sparkling wine from his certified biodynamic vineyards in the Bendigo sub-region of Central Otago. The sparkling wine is a particular treat.

Agent: Amethyst Wine Agency

Two Paddocks

Actor Sam Neill showing off his Two Paddocks Pinot

Established in 1993 by renowned actor Sam Neill, Two Paddocks is based in the sub-zone of Alexandra, making balanced, smooth and polished pinots at the riper end of the spectrum for Otago. Neill delivered one of the keynotes on day one of Pinot 2013, a memorable speech that included a hilarious video called Microdoodle #14: Cornucopia Vitis. The wines are a little more serious.

Agent: Glen-Ward Wines Inc.

Other Central Otago wineries to look for: Burn Cottage, Gibbston Valley Wines, Rippon, Terra Sancta, Valli Vineyards, Nanny Goat Vineyard

Waitaki Valley

The Waitaki Valley is New Zealand’s newest region, one that generated a lot of excitement at the Pinot 2013 conference. It really has nothing to do with Central Otago, but is lopped in under this heading since Otago is the closest region. The Waitaki Valley is about a 2-hour drive north from Otago, a valley carved by the Waitaki River itself through marine deposits. About eighty hectares of predominantly pinot noir, along with some aromatic whites, are planted in mainly limestone soils with a high degree of calcium – a soil type that pinot clearly enjoys. It’s cooler and more marine-influenced than Central, which is reflected in the lean, sharp, bright flavours of the pinots I tasted. The oldest vineyards date only to 2001, so there’s still much discovery and fine-tuning to be done, but the results are already exciting. Expect to hear a lot more about the Waitaki Valley in coming years.

Ostler Vineyards

Ostler is the leading producer based in the Waitaki Valley itself (though other fine wines are made by producers like Grant Valli and Dr. John Forrest, who own vineyards in the region but vinify at their home wineries). Jeff Sinnott and Jim Jerram planted their site in 2002 after a search for the confluence of cool climate and limestone soils led to Waitaki. These are decidedly delicate and refined wines, perfumed and tightly wound, vastly different from the pinots of central Otago. The quality already achieved here casts a positive light on the future of both Ostler and the entire region, with so much more yet to come.

Agent: The Living Vine

Other Waitaki Valley producers (wines) to look for: The Pasquale Kurow Winery, Forrest, Valli Vineyards.

For more information about New Zealand wine and The New Zealand Wine Fair visit nzwine.com.

Cheers!

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, BC Liquor Stores, John Szabo, LCBO, New Zealand Wine Fair, New Zealand Wine Regions, Vintages

The County Comes to the City

A Terrific Try before you Buy event returns to Toronto

David Lawrason

The winemaking folk of Prince Edward County like it there – tucked far from the madding crowds on their “virtual island” offshore in Lake Ontario just west of Kingston. It’s a place that moves to its own rhythms. It is governed by the slow march of history, and the seasons, and how different one season is from the next. A few of the County folk have grown up there, but most have actually moved from the city (Toronto or Ottawa) and they are now even more fervent about the County than the locals.

So they must be feeling some anxiety in returning for the second annual “County in the City” tasting this Thursday at the Berkeley Church on Queen St east of Sherbourne St. The location may seem odd to city folks – an historic church remade into an event space. But the County folks will surely be more comfortable in this rustic setting, east of Yonge Street, and closer to home. Most will likely high tail it down the 401 in the darkness as soon as the event closes at 9 pm.

But this event is a commercial necessity. For as attractive as the County has become to citified agri-tourists – with almost 40 wineries, its craft brewery (Barley Days) and new distillery (Gilead); its very fine restaurant scene; its myriad small inns and B&Bs; and its twice-yearly wine events in Picton’s “Crystal Palace” – it is still, after over ten years on the wine map, unknown to a large swath of urbanites.

And more importantly this year, the Berkeley Church event will allow guests to try the wines then place orders on the spot. No, you still can’t walk out with bottles under your arm, but the wineries will arrange free direct deliveries to your home and office. And most are wines you will never see at the LCBO.

At last count, 15 wineries were signed on to pour, and they represent an interesting cross-section of the larger, more well established wineries like Grange of Prince Edward, Huff Estates, Rosehall Run and Norman Hardie,  plus newer, tiny operations like Exultet, Stanners, Devils Wishbone, Lighthall and Half Moon Bay. But they all share the same  MO – incorrigible idealists who worked themselves to the bone to hew vineyards out of the tough, limestone gravel strewn soils, all in order to make tiny amounts of light bodied, fragrant and elegant pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris and perhaps sparkling wine from vines with impossibly low yields.

So if you have not experienced the County and its wines, and you find yourself with time on Thursday between 5pm and 9pm, click here for tickets. It is $39 all in – the cost of one fine bottle of County pinot – with an opportunity to try dozens of wines, have a bite to eat and enjoy some live music as well. And if you can’t make it Thursday, set aside the weekend of May 25 to visit the County itself for the annual Terroir event in Picton.

Cheers,

David Lawrason
VP of Wine

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Try & Buy Great Prince Edward County Wines

Back for its second year, County in the City is a great “TRY and BUY” event. Many of these wines are not available in Toronto retail outlets. All wines purchased at this event will be delivered right to your door – with FREE shipping.

And it gets better – all wine samples are included in the ticket price!

Here are the details you need to know:

Event Name: County in the City

Date: Thursday, April  25, 2013

Time: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 pm

Venue: The Berkeley Church, 315 Queen Street East, Toronto

Tickets are available now: $39 in advance (online tickets sent as a PDF in a confirmation email), $50 at the door (subject to availability)

Order Tickets Now

Have a look at some of the amazing Prince Edward County wineries who will be pouring at the event:

By Chadsey’s Cairns
Casa Dea
Closson Chase
Devil’s Wishbone
Exultet Estates
Grange of Prince Edward County Vineyard and Estate Winery
Half Moon Bay Winery
Huff Estates Winery
Karlo Estates
Keint-He Winery and Vineyard
Lighthall Vineyard
Norman Hardie
Rosehall Run
Sandbanks Winery
Stanners Vineyard

Follow County in the City on Twitter @winefestival

Filed under: Events, Featured Articles, Wine, County in the City, David Lawrason, prince edward county, Wine Tasting

John Szabo gets technical with Ann Thrupp from Fetzer and Bonterra Vineyards

An interview with Ann Thrupp, Ph.D., manager of Sustainability and Organic Development at Fetzer and Bonterra Vineyards since 2003.

John Szabo, MS

In mid-April I sat down with Ann Thrupp during her visit to Toronto to chat about sustainability and some of Fetzer’s recent innovations in the field. Fetzer is recognized as an industry-leading company in the realm of sustainable winegrowing, and has been for well over two decades. Thrupp provides technical assistance and information, and organizes educational events about organic and sustainable practices for growers, wineries, government agencies, the food/beverage industry, and the public on behalf of Fetzer/Bonterra, so she was the ideal candidate to give some relevant background and share the latest developments in sustainability.

Following is my very loose transcription of parts of our conversation, edited for clarity and brevity [these are not Thrupp’s exact words], but enough to give a flavour of the discussion. And see below for links to my reviews of recent Fetzer wine releases.

How do you/does Fetzer define sustainability?

Ann Thrupp, Fetzer

We use the definition that’s broadly accepted in the industry: it’s the intersection of practices that are environmentally responsible, socially responsible, and economically feasible. It’s a holistic approach. It’s a concept that also means continuing improvement over time to ensure long-term viability. At Fetzer we use the term “e3”, which stands for: environment, equity and economics. It’s a term we came up with long before sustainability became popular; we’ve been doing it for a long time. We find it’s easier to talk about “e tres” with our many Spanish-speaking employees than “sostenebilidad”. It has become our motto.

Is there a governing body that certifies and monitors sustainability?

There are three bodies in California that have sustainability programs. We’re part of Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW), which is third-party monitored. It’s not overseen by government, however. Other countries, like Australia, Chile, South Africa and New Zealand have their own programs with specific requirements. We look at it as healthy competition, because we’re all working to make a difference. But the challenge is that there are multiple certifications and multiple interpretations.

Nevertheless, a similar definition of sustainability is now used internationally. It’s a nice thing that there’s been alignment on what the term means. There are certification programs that define what steps need to be taken for particular regions, but there isn’t a worldwide regulatory body. And people do use the term in different ways, sometimes without the level of comprehensiveness that we apply.

What’s the difference between sustainable and organic farming?

Organic farming is like a subset of sustainable farming. Organic requirements are defined by law, and are much more strictly defined. And there are regulatory bodies involved. There is alignment, for example between Canada and the United States in recognizing the same organic standards, and it’s the same in the EU. Internationally there’s much more cohesion around organics than around sustainability.

But the difference between the environmental part of sustainability and organic certification is that the definition of organics doesn’t take into account things like water, energy and soil conservation for example. Organic farmers don’t have to account for carbon emissions; most organic farmers are certainly conscious of these sorts of things, but they aren’t defined by law. Sustainability tries to take all of these things into account, even if there isn’t a strict definition, on, say, how much carbon you can emit. But at least it’s trying to encompass climate, water, energy usage and other issues as part of the definition, not to mention the social and economic dimensions.

The CCSW, for example, also considers aspects like, waste management, recycling, air quality. It’s a broader concept than organics. That doesn’t mean that organics is somehow lesser, but the emphasis is strictly on the environmental dimension, mostly having to do with farming inputs.

What percentage of California’s grapes is grown sustainably?

I don’t have the figure off the top of my head, but it’s a very high percentage statewide in California, and it has increased a lot recently. I believe about 60% of the acreage is farmed by growers who are enrolled in one of the sustainability programs. It doesn’t mean that they’re all certified, but it means that they’re active participants in the program and they’re getting education and doing self-evaluations. At least they’re on the path to increasing sustainability. [12.3% of the 535,000 total acres in California are Certified California Sustainable, according to the CCSW website – JS]

Bonterra Vineyards

Pioneers like Fetzer have been open to sharing information. We’ve been involved since the very beginning, and been involved in delivering and sharing educational programs. It’s caught on that doing good business is about being sustainable.

There is certainly a risk that some will jump on the bandwagon, and not all may be aiming for the same authentic sustainability as others, so I think it’s really important for both the media and consumers to look closely at what a company means when they say they are sustainable, since there’s a very general definition.

Do you think it would be impractical to have one standard definition of sustainability worldwide?

That’s one of the challenges. For example, there are different water and energy issues in different parts of the world. So it makes it very hard to establish categorically what is sustainable across the world. A perfect example is water. In California, there are very strict regulations on the amount of water you use, given the resource scarcity. It’s essential. But on the east coast, they have too much water for growing grapes in most cases. So there wouldn’t be the same need to restrict water usage there as severely in order to be sustainable. By its very nature, sustainability means adaptability, over time, and over different regions. What’s sustainable here may not be sustainable there, and what’s sustainable today may not be sustainable tomorrow.

How can a consumer distinguish sustainably produced wines?

That’s a really good question. It’s hard for a consumer to know. Having the certification programs help, but putting the CCSW logo on the bottle is not yet allowed. It’s a complex issue. I think if you’re interested in that aspect of a wine, you have to dig deeper. You can go to the producer’s website, do some research and find out. You can also go to California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance where there’s a list of CCSW certified wineries and a description of all of our practices. It shows that we’re authentic.

What are the most challenging aspects of implementing a sustainability program?

It’s an effort that requires collaboration between many departments within a winery, but I have to say that I don’t really see any major challenges. That’s why more and more are catching on. Once people realize what sustainability means, they see that there are so many advantages, including wine quality. It’s not something that people tend to resist. It makes sense for so many reasons. Ten years ago, you saw far more widespread use of herbicides and pesticides. Now, people have changed that approach. And they’ve also realized that it makes for better wine.

Is it more expensive to farm sustainability?

There can be some up front capital costs for innovative tools, like solar panels, but these gives long-term financial savings, and they also give future stability, not to mention reducing reliance on fossil fuels. Sustainability is about seeking win-win situations. Some of the workers’ social benefits can also cost more money off the top, but it’s returned with things like increased productivity and employee loyalty, and less liability. Sustainable practices can also reduce costs. An obvious example is the reduced use of inputs like sprays in the vineyard, if the minimum, sustainable amounts are used rather than spraying to a calendar cycle. There are now efforts to more fully document the cost and risk reductions of sustainability.

Chickens and weed control

A nice example of the win-win-win scenario is the lighter weight bottles that Fetzer introduced in 2008. There are obviously huge environmental advantages of moving to lighter weight bottles throughout the entire supply chain (less energy to produce, less materials used, lower carbon emissions to transport, less energy to recycle), as well as an economic advantage to the company in lower cost. And we didn’t even consider the social benefits: people don’t have to carry around heavy cases of wine.

What advice would you give to a winery or a wine region looking to become sustainable?

Start with an education program, not with obligations. It’s important for people in the industry to first learn and to evaluate their own practices before introducing a strict code to follow. Forcing people to become sustainable can lead to cutting corners. Many are likely already practicing sustainable standards without necessarily being conscious of it – it makes business sense. It’s a question of giving people the knowledge to improve on what they’re already doing, and to continually seek to improve.

It’s not often brought up, but to achieve real sustainability, you also have to be growing the right grapes in the right place! Varieties that are particularly susceptible to diseases shouldn’t be planted in high disease pressure areas. That’s just logical.

What do you foresee to be the greatest future challenges in maintaining or improving your sustainability code?

Water is a big issue, especially in California. At Fetzer, when we’re replanting, we’re looking at more drought resistant varieties, or using more drought resistant rootstocks. It’s caused us to be more proactive.

Cover crops

We’ve also just introduced a new cleaning protocol using paracetic acid that has allowed us to reduce our water usage in the winery – mainly from washing out tanks – by 140,000 gallons per year – that’s significant. We also recycle waste-water  wine lees are sent out to be recycled into vinegar, or turned into distilled spirits; diatomaceous earth goes into composting. There are all sorts of innovations that have allowed us to reduce waste, and we’re continually evaluating new opportunities.

Moving to sell wine in kegs, for example, to be served on tap in restaurants can also reduce packaging.  We’re always exploring new ways to conserve energy, too. One small thing is that we’re rolling out bicycles to be used to get around at Fetzer, reducing vehicles on site. There’s always a way to improve.

Sustainability Tips

Want to be more earth friendly? Here are few of the many simple sustainability tips found on Fetzer’s website (source: http://www.fetzer.com/Earth-Friendly-Tips)

• Make sure your home insulation is up to par.
• Car pool with others to work or school.
• Instead of driving your kids to school, have them ride the school bus.
• Cancel delivery of unwanted newspapers and donate old magazines
  to waiting rooms.
• Plant a tree.
• Paper or plastic? Neither. Bring your own canvas bag to the grocery.
• Take shorter showers. That can save 700 gallons of water a month.
• Properly maintain your heating and cooling equipment, including regularly replacing filters.
• Set your mower to keep grass longer, which crowds out weeds and helps the grass retain moisture.
• Don’t throw away old batteries or electronics – recycle them.
• Line-dry your laundry every now and then.
• Start a compost pile in your backyard for turning kitchen scraps and yard
  waste into enriched mulch for gardening.
• Use the cold water cycle of your washing machine for all laundry.
• Defrost your freezer. A freezer that is free of accumulated ice
  uses less energy.
• Purchase bio-degradable dish and laundry soaps.
• Turn off lights when not in use.
• Unplug electronic devices with stand-by features.
• Use your bicycle when traveling short distances.
• Buy food that is locally produced.
• Buy products which advertise green and recycled production. 

And how are the wines?

I have included a few links to some recently tasted Fetzer wines below. You can search all Fetzer and Bonterra wines on WineAlign the Google custom search tool, or jump to the Organic/Biodynamic Tag from our Home page for even more organic producers.

Fetzer Pinot Grigio 2011

Jekel Vineyards Gravelstone Chardonnay 2010

Sanctuary Usibelli Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Sanctuary Mariah Vineyard Mendocino Ridge Zinfandel 2009

John Szabo, M.S.

Photo of Ann Thrupp by John Szabo, others as posted by Fetzer/Bonterra on California Sustainable Winegrowers Alliance 

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Ann Thrupp, John Szabo, Organic Wine, sustainable agriculture, sustainable farming

Malbec World Day by David Lawrason

Promoting the malbec grape of Argentina

David Lawrason

Every grape, it seems, has its day. Malbec World Day on April 17 is a recent phenomenon to promote the malbec grape of Argentina. This late ripening variety is actually from southwest France (Cahors) but the hot, even climate on the high steppes of Mendoza has given it a perfect home, and malbec is now a household name in North America and South.

Indeed it has achieved a formidable presence in the Canadian market; fulfilling predictions that it would be “the next big thing” – like Australian shiraz. But as shiraz has gone through a downturn in mass market affection, might malbec be experiencing the same thing? Or, put another way, has malbec already had its day?

I was in my local store in Toronto on the weekend checking out how much malbec is available. There is a ton. When you go to WineAlign and search Malbec-Argentina-All Prices you will find a whopping 64 brands in current inventory at the LCBO. Similarly there are 65 showing in British Columbia. But a look at the small print on the price tags showed that many of the brands in the LCBO’s Vintages stores are showing release dates of weeks or months ago, especially if they are more expensive.

And I noted something else – many of the labels were unfamiliar, even to one who follows such things more closely than the average punter. It’s as if, at one point, Vintages just threw out a net and imported any malbec that wanted to be exported – whether good or not. So without my WineAlign iPhone app allowing me to check out my own reviews I wouldn’t know what to buy either.

I do enjoy malbec when I want a big, swarthy red. Barbecue season is such a time, and it’s no co-incidence that most Argentines drink malbec with their ubiquitous slabs of grilled and heavily smoked beef. And I like it a lot when it shows off its lovely floral, blackberry fruit unencumbered by too much oak, alcohol, meatiness or stemminess.

But I do find lower priced malbec rather homogenous, and many are heavy, coarse and unbalanced. This is partially because many are released too soon. Australia seemed able to get away with releasing very young shiraz that was more or less in balance – the syrah grape is inherently softer – but young, inexpensive malbec is not quite as affable or quaffable.

On the other hand, more expensive malbecs, although showing better complexity and depth of flavour, often don’t seem all that different in flavour profile or balance. And high alcohol can continue to be a problem.

So how to spot the good ones? I am looking at two things.

First, I am finding more elegance and floral lift in malbecs from higher altitude Uco Valley at (900 to 1200 metres). The recently developed region is a sea of vines up against the Andes, with one flashy new winery after another that makes it feel like Napa, at least in terms of its energy. In particular I am looking at the labels for mentions of some of the best sub-regions like La Consulta, Altamira, Vista Flores and Tunuyan and especially the highest region called Gualtallary near Tupungato. These ‘appelations’ are no yet official but they are beginning to appear on labels.

Second, I am looking for certain producers that I have come to know and respect. With so many producers (Argentina has over 2000 wineries) this is a slow process; but having visited there late in 2011 and paying attention since then, my go to list is developing. And I share it with you for Malbec World Day, with links to some of my favourite wines still on the shelf.

Altamira De Los Andes Reserve Malbec 2009

This is made entirely from grapes grown in La Consulta and Vista Flores, two sub-regions of higher altitude in the Uco Valley. And it catches the floral charm I have come to expect of these regions. Lavish blackberry, violet fruit is nicely couched in moderated oak, vanillin and black licorice. It’s thick. elegant, sweetish and young with some alcohol kick, but essentially well composed, and excellent quality. Tasted February 2013.

Altocedro Reserva Malbec 2009

From the southern and higher reaches of the Uco Valley in La Consulta, this dark malbec has a lovely nose of mulberry, violets, chocolate and a hint of meatiness. It’s full bodied, smooth and very rich, with fine-grained tannin and considerable alcohol heat. Quite luscious with smoked meat finish. Excellent length. Best now to 2016. Tasted July 2012.

Versado Malbec 2010

Versado is small, new Canadian-owned winery in Argentina, with Niagara’s Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble at the winemaking helm. They have wrought some complexity here that’s often missing in malbecs at this price – combining woodsy, leathery notes amid the ripe berry-dried fig fruit. It’s medium-full bodied, fairly dense and refined, with some drying tannin. The length is very good. Tasted March 2013.

Cicchitti Edición Limitada Malbec 2008

This is very deep ruby-purple-black. The nose is generous, sweet and very ripe with mulberry, vanilla, coffee/chocolate and pepper. It’s full bodied, sweet, creamy and thick, with a tarry, smoky finish. Excellent length. It has great curb appeal, but Euro fans will find it too sweet. Tasted November 2012.

Angulo Innocenti Malbec 2010

La Consulta is a higher altitude sub-region at the upper end of the Uco Valley, expressing a somewhat more floral aroma and more delicate feel in this example. It is still very deep black-purple colour. It has a lovely floral fragrance with blackberry and gentle wood spice. It’s quite thick but not heavy with some woodsy tannin and pepper on the finish. Very good to excellent length. Fine now or over the next three years while the fruit is in bloom. Tasted March 2013.

Bodega Séptima Séptimo Día Malbec 2011

Septimo is owned by Spain’s famed cava producer Codorníu. It’s 135 hectares of vineyards are located in the Agrelo and Uco Valley.Young winemaker Paula Borgo has the reins at a state of the art winery. The result here is a rather vivacious, intense and almost racy malbec, whereas many are heavy and plodding. But that is not to say it is light because there is good weight and density and excellent length. The flavours are intense with very ripe currant-cherry fruit, very generous tarry, smoky oak and some of malbec’s florality. The length is excellent, the finish warm and a touch youthfully gritty. Lots here for $16; but I would give it a year for tannin to soften and oak to integrate. Tasted April 2013

Benmarco Malbec 2009

This has a very good stuffing, colour and fruit density – easily worth the money. It’s only lacking a bit of tension to put it over 90 – slightly low acidity with a touch of over-ripeness. Otherwise, enjoy the generous plummy, violet and chocolate aromas and flavours. It’s medium-full bodied, supple and rich with fine tannin. Very good to excellent length. Best 2012 to 2015. Tasted November 2011.

For more information on Malbec World Day you can visit the official Website, follow the activities on #MalbecWorldDay on Twitter, or see if there are still tickets to the VINTAGES event tomorrow night in Toronto.

Cheers,

David Lawrason
VP of Wine

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Argentina, David Lawrason, Malbec World Day, Wine

The Globe & Mail ‘the Catalysts’ nominates WineAlign’s Bryan McCaw

The Globe & Mail, in partnership with The Lincoln Motor Company, is in the midst of a contest called the Catalysts. To give you an idea of what it’s about, here is a quote from their website:

“We are seeking to spotlight creative people behind the headlines. They may not yet be household names, but their achievements in fields like food and drink, style and design and arts and culture, are game-changing. Their peers, their audiences and their customers recognize them as leaders and what they’ve done has changed the way others live, work and play.”

So, of course, we are thrilled that WineAlign’s own Bryan McCaw was nominated in the Food and Drink category.

Since launching almost five years ago WineAlign has steadily added Canada’s top wine critics and grown to become Canada’s largest wine community.  In the last year over 1 million different people have visited the website.  The site is currently focused on helping Ontario wine consumers find wines at the LCBO. In March 2013 WineAlign expanded to British Columbia and will expand to Quebec in June 2013.  In addition to adding new provinces, WineAlign is launching two new wine awards this year which will become the largest wine awards in Canada.   The National Wine Awards of Canada will seek out the best in Canadian wines and the World Wine Awards of Canada will judge wines available in Canada from all over the world.  WineAlign has also launched it’s own original video series, “So You Think You Know Wine?“ which showcases the extraordinary talents of wine critics and sommeliers.  WineAlign wants to become the definitive wine resource for Canadian wine consumers.

Have a look at this short video highlighting WineAlign and Bryan’s nomination: “Wine tasting is not glamorous at all. It’s hard work!”

You can follow the Catalysts contest on Twitter @catalystsglobe

Good luck, Bryan!

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Bryan McCaw, The Catalysts, WineAlign