Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best; by Sara d’Amato and Janet Dorozynski

Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best and Experts Deliberate on Niagara’s Cabs & Merlot

Sara d’Amato

At the time winter should be yielding to spring, Ontario marks its most star-studded annual wine event, Cuvée. This is the time Ontario winemakers showcase the wines in which they take most pride at a black tie gala event held at the Fallsview Casino in Niagara Falls and subsequently at the tasting bars of the participating wineries themselves over the weekend. It is a night when all facets of the industry mingle and eager wine enthusiasts benefit from all of the fanfare and excitement. Janet Dorozynski and I were both present this year, and we are pleased to collaborate and share our experiences with you here.

This year marked the 25^th anniversary of Cuvée, and with it came significant changes to the event. In the past, award-winning Cuvée wines were chosen by the winemakers themselves in a blind tasting competition held prior to the gala. This year, the awards were done away with in favor of a ‘Grand Tasting’ format: the participating winemakers were asked to choose their favorite one wine to showcase at the event. The new format was overwhelmingly well received and, I think, made for a more interesting event. The presentation of one wine from each of the wineries allowed for a much more intimate and memorable experience for guests.

Since 1989, Cuvée has brought media, aficionados and winemakers together to experience the best the province has to offer, or at least the pride of the winemakers. It also allows us to meet the stars behind the bottles, dressed to their nines, and gives us perspective into the personalities that make up our Ontario wine culture. This year, 42 Ontario wineries participated in the event and, in addition to the Dairy Farmers of Ontario, 9 chefs each cooked up three creative and wine-friendly dishes to inspire tasters.

Interestingly, the wines chosen by the winemakers seemed extremely varied both stylistically and varietal-wise. The only small theme seemed to be in the realm of chardonnay – the chosen varietal showcased by six producers. Although there is nothing particularly surprising about having this many chardonnays presented, the styles had a distinct commonality in their restraint and purity of fruit. As chardonnay drinkers become more sophisticated, this nervy, stripped down style or, at least, the use of winemaking techniques to support natural flavours as opposed to enhance or manipulate them is both progressive and pervasive among regions world-wide in even the most commercial of offerings. Ontario is no exception, and the majority of chardonnays were both surprising and refreshing.

Sara’s Top Cuvée 2013 Picks:

Megalomaniac Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc 2008
John Howard Cellars of Distinction
$44.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Sue-Ann Staff

This was the first wine I tasted of the evening and I remained most impressed by its ability to endure on my palate throughout the course of the night. When carefully grown and then sensitively treated, cabernet franc has the ability to stun the senses. Cool and wet best describes 2008 and was best suited for the Burgundian varietals of chardonnay and pinot noir. However, with carefully managed hang time, and a dry end to the season made for some exceptionally aromatic and expressive cabernet franc such as this wow-me of an example.

Ravine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Select, Unfiltered 2009
$40 from the winery, Winemaker: Shauna White

Young but certainly not inexperienced and with a talent for winemaking in her genes, Shauna White is keeping Ravine Vineyards’ offerings dynamic and exciting at a generally affordable price point. This chardonnay boasts real elegance and restraint and because it did not go through malo-lactic fermentation it retains its freshness and purity of fruit quite distinctively.

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate, Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2010,
$32.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Marco Piccoli

The Delaine vineyard site has been producing high-quality fruit under its name since 2001. It is planted with several varieties but what I have found is consistently most exciting is their peppery syrah. There is definitive elegance in this cool climate style that expresses itself so uniquely in Niagara. Not to be missed.

Janet’s 90+ Picks from Cuvée 2013:

Château des Charmes Equuleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, 2010
$40.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Paul Bosc

The founder of Chateau des Charmes, Paul Bosc Sr, is a devotee of Arabian horses, with Equuleus being the Latin term for little horse. This tribute wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s fleshy and a tad flashy, and definitely shows the depth and concentration of the warm 2010 vintage in Ontario. Rich dark fruit and notes of cocoa mingle nicely in this well-balanced, well-made wine. Ready to race now or cellar for 8+ years.

Stratus Vineyards Stratus White 2009
$44.00 Vintages, Winemaker: J-L Groux

Niagara’s take on white Bordeaux with a twist. The Stratus White 2009 is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Gewurztraminer. Each of the components are aged in oak, which brings richness and texture and imparts a subtle vanilla cream spiciness to a palate of peach, apricots and tangerine flavours. Medium bodied, with vibrant acidity and a lingering toast and spicy finish. Exotic and charming.

Lailey Vineyard Winery Impromptu 2010
$45.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Derek Barnett

This is Lailey Vineyards flagship red that is only made in exceptional vintages, which 2010 was for reds in Niagara. Predominantly Syrah (75%), with equal parts Malbec and fragrant Petit Verdot, come together in this enticing package. Ripe, with fine supple tannins and balanced acidity, this is a fine and elegant medium-bodied wine. Can be drunk now or kept for 5 to 7 years.

Thomas Bachelder Wismer Chardonnay 2010
$44.95 Vintages, Winemaker: Thomas Bachelder

A brilliant wine from one of Niagara’s star winemakers, with fruit sourced from one of Niagara’s viticultural sweet spots, the Wismer vineyard. Complex and creamy, with stone fruit flavours, the acidity is crisp but balanced, with a generous, textured mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. A true masterpiece.

The Experts Tasting: Getting a handle on Bordeaux Reds

Janet Dorozynski

The Expert’s Tasting at Brock is by invitation only and a highly anticipated event for the Ontario trade, media and wineries. The event is organized and hosted by the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University and focuses on a different theme or grape variety each year, in order to dig more deeply into the state of vinous affairs of the region.

This year’s focus was “Bordeaux reds”, and while never a huge proponent of Ontario Bordeaux reds, save for Cabernet Franc, I have to say that I was presently surprised by what we tasted. While Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are more difficult to get consistently ripe and right in Ontario, Cabernet Franc is more suited to cooler climates and has been doing better throughout the years.

The tasting was divided into five flights, with the first four focused on a varietal or stylistic theme related to Bordeaux red varieties.  The flights were presented by winemakers and principals, many of which were CCOVI graduates, with themes centered on popular songs. Most of the wines were current vintages or releases from Ontario, with a few older vintages along with ringers from Napa and Bordeaux thrown in to keep us on our toes.

The Merlot flight was entitled R.E.S.P.E.C.T, since it usually doesn’t get much, in which we tasted some good examples from Malivoire Wine Co. (Stouck Vineyard 2010 Merlot) along with the Trius Clark Farm Merlot 2010. 

During the Mothers of Innovation flight for Cabernet Franc, we learned about the grapes regal lineage and how it, along with Sauvignon Blanc, was parent of the noble Cabernet Sauvignon. This was my preferred flight of the tasting with the highlights being the Stratus 2008 Cabernet Franc, which was harvested on December 8, 2008, alongside the Peller Estates 2010 Cabernet Franc from the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, which was rich and intense with extraordinarily great structure. 

In the We Are Family flight for Bordeaux blends, we once again tasted a Stouck Vineyard wine from Malivoire, this time the 2010 Cabernet Merlot, which seems to illustrate that there is something special about both this grower and site in the Beamsville Bench.  We also tasted the Hidden Bench Terroir Cache from 2010 and 2007, along with the Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot from 2002 and 2007, all of which showed that Ontario Bordeaux blends from good vintages can and do age well.   

In Flight Four, with a nod to the Who’s Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy, we tasted a range of big and plush textured reds from the Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), along with a few blends and the Foreign Affair 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit from low yields (2 tonnes per acre) and containing 25% appassimento grapes, grapes that are dried prior to fermentation and a style of wine which we are seeing more often in Ontario. 

The last flight – “If You Don’t Know me by Now” – was a  “Wine Options” flight, where each table has to guess the variety, vintage, region, producer for each of the five wines poured. Wine Options is an antipodean specialty, first started by Australian Len Evans after a Chateau Thabilk tasting in Sydney, and is always an exciting and humbling finale to the Expert’s Tasting.

To some extent, many of the wines tasted reconfirmed what I’d already thought about Bordeaux reds – they can be very good but are vintage and site specific in Ontario. I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by a number of the blends and Cabernet Sauvignon, though overall, the highlight for me was the Cabernet Franc flight, which seems to reinforce the place for this earlier ripening grape in the region and the reason why many view it as a core variety for both Ontario and Canada. 

Janet’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

Peller Estates “Signature Series” 2010 Cabernet Franc
$40.20 from the winery

A Cabernet Franc with good depth and structure. Aromatic, with red berry and cedar notes, with a touch of grilled red peppers on the nose. Medium to full bodied, with balanced acidity and present and slightly grippy tannins. Long finish. Would be a good match for grilled lamb.

Malivoire Wine Co. 2010 Cabernet Merlot ‘Stouck’
$29.95, Vintages

A limited edition Cabernet Merlot release from Malivoire, with fruit from Beamsville Bench wine grower Dan Stouck. Very deeply coloured, with an intense nose of dark fruit and berries, spice and coffee, which is complemented by richness and depth on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with good grip and a long intoxicating finish.

Sara’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

“The Temptress” Foreign Affair Winery 2010
$44.95 from the winery

The impressive power delivered by the appassimento style (or drying of the grapes in order to increase concentration) which has become ever popular in Ontario, can yield impressively rich results that make it difficult to determine the origin of the wine, especially during warmer vintages. The results can easily vary from hot and sweet to dry and concentrated. Although not always a fan of this bombshell of a style, this particular version made from a large proportion of merlot was undeniably impressive. When results such as these can be achieved, it is extremely pleasurable to concentrate them.

Hidden Bench Meritage “Terroir Cache” 2007
$45.00 from the winery

Substantial but showing restraint, this plump, lush and sensuous wine is just beginning to show signs of maturity. A smoky, dried leaf flavour helps quell the power of the fruit and adds character and refinement to the blend. Well-crafted and quite indicative of the aromatic potential and length that can be produced by a Bordelaise blend in Niagara.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2002
$50.00 from the winery

This was a bit of a contentious wine in the tasting; some believing it lacked substance and others took issue with its notable maturity. However, I couldn’t’ help but appreciate its charm and distinctive flavours that still remained. Notes of pepper, fruit spice, dill and graphite along with delicate floral notes that still shone through despite its evolved state are surely a testament to the graceful longevity of which is there good potential in Niagara.

A panel of experts from winemakers, to educators, to sommeliers were involved in selecting the wines for these flights, which were designed to help us understand the roles that individual Bordelaise varietals play in our unique climate. Indeed, they were very helpful in illustrating several key points, including the fact that earlier ripening varietals such as cabernet franc and merlot have particularly important roles in our climate, as they provide a certain insurance that they will ripen in most years. In a cooler year, cabernet sauvignon risks being rained out, or can remain hanging on the vine into the winter before fully ripening. Cabernet franc’s aromatic contribution to the blend is distinctly apparently in our Ontario style, which is complemented by merlot’s lushness and even structure as was demonstrated in the first flight.

These flights also provided good illustrations of the ageabillity of our Bordeaux blends, as several examples that Janet mentioned previously, showed remarkably well, especially those dating back to the warmer vintage of 2002. Harmonious, balanced, and refined, there were great similarities here to French Bordeaux of a similar age, which I have tasted as of late.

There were at least as many conclusions as wines served that could be drawn from this enlightening and academic tasting regarding the potential for these challenging wines in Ontario. One thing was made resoundingly clear, however, and that was that these wines are worth are effort and our closer examination.

For more reviews of wines presented at Cuvee 2013, follow this link: Cuvee 2013 Wines.

Photos courtesy of: Robert Nowell, www.robertnowellphoto.com

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Cuvée, Janet Dorozynski, Ontario Wine, Sara d'Amato

Taking on Chocolate; Margaret Swaine and Janet Dorozynski

WineAlign’s Margaret Swaine and Janet Dorozynski delve into libations with chocolate. Based on common sense and taste chemistry Margaret arrives at desire-enhancing spirit matches, and Janet explains why she likes her chocolate sans vino, and then delivers a trio of romantic reds.

Spirited Aphrodisiacs
By Margaret Swaine

Margaret Swaine

I’ve read that every Valentine’s Day an estimated one billion dollars is spent by the love struck on chocolate for their heart’s desire. There’s reason behind this cocoa craze. Good chocolate has mood enhancing qualities. Chocolate contains phenylethylamine – a feel good chemical found naturally in the brain. And researchers say chocolate may also boost the brain’s production of serotonin, a natural antidepressant. So chocolate is a given, but what to drink with it?

Ginger has for centuries been called a powerful aphrodisiac with suggestions that it increases sexual prowess. This reputation as a natural aphrodisiac comes from its ability to increase circulation including in the erogenous zones. French comtesse, Madame du Barry who was a sensation in Paris as a courtesan and official mistress to King Louis XV, apparently made a practice of serving ginger to her lovers. It was said to achieve the desired results. On sale now in Vintages is a terrific ginger product The King’s Ginger Liqueur ($45.95).

Bols history of distilling spans over 400 years when the Bols family moved to Amsterdam in 1575. Lucas Bols, born in 1652 really put the family company on the map. He was an influential business man during the Dutch Golden Age, when Amsterdam was the world’s major trading city. Lucas Bols had first choice of the ‘new’ herbs and spices that seafaring merchants brought into Amsterdam from the West Indies. With his knowledge of distilling, he created hundreds of liqueurs, by distilling, macerating and percolating those natural ingredients.

In the 16^th and 17^th century liqueurs were made for healing illnesses, afflictions and as love potions. Names such as “Verboden Liefde” (Forbidden Love) and “Volmaakt Geluk” (Perfect Bliss) conveyed the message of miraculous effects. The only modern-day Bols liqueur still connected to love is Bols “Parfait Amour” (Perfect Love), a purple hued liqueur flavoured with flower petals, principally violets and roses, together with orange peel and almonds. Alas this isn’t available at the LCBO.

Blue Curaçao revived in 1970 from an old recipe called “Creme de Ciel” (Cream of the Skies) is nowadays known as Bols Blue. A worldwide success, it’s best mixed in tropical cocktails. This time of year and to match with chocolate, I’d go for Bols Advocaat ($21.95), with its sweet egg custard flavour. A popular advocaat-based drink enjoyed in Italian ski resorts is the Bombardino, made by mixing one part advocaat with one part brandy, served hot with whipped cream on top. Other variations add espresso, rum or whisky into the mix.

Bourbons, cognacs and armagnacs are wonderful matches with chocolate.  Just take a sip then a nibble. A deep and complex cognac like Bowen XO ($184.95) would marry well with dark, high cocoa content chocolate for a perfect finish to a romantic evening. The history of Bowen starts with romance. At some point at the turn of the 19th and 20th century, the great-grandfather of Rene-Luc Chabasse inherited a number of properties and vineyards in the Cognac region. He had a passion for travel and his voyages took him around the globe. On one of these trips that he met and fell in love with Elizabeth Bowen – a young lady whose family had a farm near Pondicherry in south-east India. Smitten, the young man poured all his efforts into creating a particularly aromatic and elegant cognac just for her. The result was a success and the beginning of a journey of a cognac brand that still bears her name today.

Wine and Chocolate: Too Much of a Good Thing
By Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

While chocolate may be a given on Valentine’s Day, and I love great chocolate just as much as the next gal, I prefer to nibble on my morsels of dark chocolate separately from my wine. Even though we hear repeatedly that chocolate and red wine is a match made in heaven, I beg to differ.

Without getting too deep into the science of taste or food and wine matching, suffice it to say that many of the flavour compounds found in chocolate are also found in wine, such as tannins (yes tannins, with chocolate containing more than black tea), flavonoids (a type of polyphenol which gives red wines its colour) and acid. Even though some red wines have hints of cocoa or mocha, because the components of chocolate and red wine are more similar than different, when tasted together, they often clash rather than cohabit.

If you are a subscriber to the classic tenants of food and wine matching, rule number one for pairing wine with desserts or sweet foods is that the wine should be sweeter than what you are eating. Since most of the red wines that we drink today are dry, the sweetness in chocolate, even bittersweet chocolate, will emphasize both the tannin and acidity in red wines and make them taste more acidic and bitter than they actually are.

Many esteemed scholars of wine and wine and food matching concur that chocolate is a difficult match for wine. Emile Peynaud, author of the classic book, The Taste of Wine, explains that although there are many, many styles of wine which will match with countless foods, chocolate, as well as chocolate desserts such as chocolate mousse, are no-no’s and one of the exceptions to this rule.

Food and wine matching goddess Fiona Beckett also views chocolate as a difficult match for wine and if you must have wine with your chocolate, steers you toward sweet reds such as fortified wines (cream sherry, Oloroso or PX; Ruby Port), vins doux naturals from the south of France (Rivesaltes, Banyuls or Maury) or raspberry liqueur. She also recommends cognac with chocolate truffles or “other hand-made chocolates”, as well as black coffee with chocolate cake, which I see as imminently sensible advice.

In my mind, pairing chocolate and red wine falls under the category of difficult, or perhaps unnecessary, food matches, as is the case for artichokes, asparagus, eggs or mackerel. Anyone is of course free to drink and eat whatever they like, or that which appeals to your senses, since the bottom line with any wine and food pairing really comes down to you and what you like. I personally would prefer to savor that box of heart-shaped chocolates on their own and rather sip any of these romantic reds over a meal with my Valentine.

Rosewood Estates Merlot 2010 ($22.00)

Although I’m not always convinced that Merlot has a place in Ontario, in ripe years, and when done right, it can be very, very good. This wine ticks all the boxes with dense black fruit, hints of cocoa-mocha, grippy tannins and fresh, balanced acidity. Substantial yet gracious, with a lingering dark fruit finish. Pure pleasure and a great match for braised shorts and grilled vegetables. Drink now to 2015. Tasted February 2013.

Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgan 2011 ($34.95) 

As a self-confessed lover of all things Gamay, I was thrilled to taste this Beaujolais Cru during a recent visit to Vancouver. With its supple, silky texture, intense red and black fruit flavours and gamey aromas, this is not your typical Beaujolais. Spritely and juicy, with soft tannins and a long earthy finish.  Pure Bliss! Drink now or over the next 2 years. #GoGamayGo. Tasted January 2013. Available in Ontario through Trialto.com.

Loveblock Pinot Noir 2011 ($28.95) 

Loveblock Vintners is the new winery of Kim and Erica Crawford, best known as founders of Kim Crawford.  This is an organic and biodynamic wine with complex red fruit intensity on the nose and palate. Well balanced acidity and structure with firm tannins and well–integrated oak. Red berries and a touch of smoke on the long finish. Sure to please lovers of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Tasted November 2012.

Happy Valentine’s Day from WineAlign!

Filed under: Featured Articles, Spirits, Wine, Chocolate, Janet Dorozynski, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, SPirits, Vintages

Journey to Middle Earth: News from New Zealand by Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

Although much of the recent attention on New Zealand has been focused on the Hobbit, I managed to visit and escape just before the hordes descended on Middle Earth for the official movie premier. The adventure began as I boarded Air New Zealand, which not only featured a Hobbit-themed safety demonstration video, but an extensive selection of the country’s wines. New Zealand wines are front and center in the mind of the travellers long before they step off the plane.

My journey took me to Marlborough and Central Otago, the regions that put New Zealand on the world wine map and are best known respectively for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. I also had the opportunity to explore, and was inspired by, the lesser-known regions of Hawkes Bay and Gisborne, the second and third largest growing areas after Marlborough.

While Sauvignon Blanc comprises just under half of the total plantings in New Zealand, there are now over 25 different grape varieties grown commercially. The “other” whites – Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer, along with Bordeaux varieties and Syrah, have shown that New Zealand is far from being the one (or two) trick pony that some may think. So after nearly two weeks of tasting hundreds of wines, here’s a snapshot, from north to south, of what stood out and what we will hopefully see more of in the Canadian market.

Gisborne

Gisborne, on the western side of the North Island, is New Zealand’s third largest growing area and first region to see the sun rise. Formerly known as a bulk wine producing region, there have been a number of small and interesting wineries who’ve put down roots in Gisborne, while many of the larger wineries like Villa Maria and Cooper’s Creek, continue to source quality fruit from the region’s numerous growers. The region’s calling card is Chardonnay and aromatic whites, with Gewurztraminer having been produced here since the 1970s. Wineries like Vinoptima make Gewurztraminer only, both a Noble Late Harvest and an off-dry, dramatically rich and opulent style, which are among the best in the country and internationally acclaimed. (Vinoptima is represented in Ontario by John Hanna & Sons)

Other whites like Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc and Viognier also do well in Gisborne. James Millton, one of the region’s trailblazers, was the first biodynamic vineyard in the southern hemisphere and makes a stunning array of certified organic wines that we see periodically in Ontario and Quebec. Millton is an ardent proponent of white varieties and produces very good Chardonnay (Crazy by Nature Shortberry Gisborne 2011 and Clos de Ste. Anne 2010), along with a range of superb Chenin Blanc (Crazy by Nature 2012, Millton Te Arai Vineyard 2010 and Clos de Ste. Anne La Bas 2009) and impressive Viognier (Millton Riverpoint Vineyard 2010, Clos de Ste. Anne Les Arbres 2010). He also mentioned that he believes that no other grape is better suited to Gisborne than Albarinho, so keep an eye out for this variety in the future. (Millton Vineyards & Winery is represented in Ontario by : The Living Vine)

Hawkes Bay

Hawkes Bay first made its name with cool climate Bordeaux red varietal wines; in particular those from the Gimblett Gravels, a 850 hectare parcel of sandy gravelly soil, hence the name, with free-draining, low vigor soils. Fine Bordeaux reds include CJ Pask Gimblett Road Cab/Merlot/Malbec 2009 from one of the Gimblett Gravels’ pioneers, Hawkes Bay Sophia 2010 from Craggy Range, one of New Zealand’s preeminent producers and Crossroads Winemaker’s Collection Cabernet Franc 2010, one of the rare Cabernet Franc that I tasted in New Zealand. Syrah, which requires less heat than Bordeaux varieties, also does well in Hawkes Bay and the region is increasingly known as the heartland of Syrah in New Zealand.

While total plantings remain small, Syrah shines at the Hill wineries with the Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010, the Deerstalkers Syrah 2010 from Sacred Hill and the Elephant Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 worth seeking out. Other notable examples include the Gimblett Gravels 2010 and Le Sol 2010 from Craggy Range, CJ Pask Declaration Syrah 2009 and the dynamite La Collina Syrah 2009 from tiny producer Bilancia. There is also a small amount of white produced in Hawkes Bay, with very good Chardonnay and Pinot Gris from many of the above producers.

Curiously, many Hawkes Bay wineries (and throughout New Zealand) have wines from other New Zealand wine regions in their portfolio, be it a Central Otago or Martinborough Pinot Noir or a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. When asked why, several explained the decision was purely market-driven, as consumers and especially buyers, notably from Canadian liquor boards, prefer New Zealand wineries to have everything in their portfolio. This expectation to have it all, or one stop shopping, may work against honing in on New Zealand regionality in the long run, if wineries are expected to make everything, rather than specialize in making what their region does best.

Marlborough

Baby doll sheep at Yealands Estate

What’s there to say about Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that hasn’t already been said? The success of the region and Savvy, as the Kiwis call it, is nothing short of remarkable, having captured the hearts and palates of many white wine drinkers who were weary of overly-oaked Chardonnay and saw crisp, unwooded Sauvignon Blanc as the perfect antidote. But with success came saturation or the Savalanche as it is colloquially known, when in 2008, increased plantings, over-cropping and an unusually large harvest led to the country’s first major grape surplus in decades.

Sauvignon Blanc remains New Zealand’s most widely exported wine (now at 84% of total exports) though the style of Sauvignon Blanc we first saw in the Canadian market – crisp, dry and pleasantly herbaceous, with an attractive sweaty, tropical/passion fruit character, seems to have been deluded and replaced, in particular for the bigger, well-known brands, by wines with too much residual sugar that are often dull.

Wairau Valley vineyards

While in Marlborough, I met with a good number of wineries who are not content to rest on their laurels and are committed to moving beyond the same old, same old. There is growing interest to produce sub-regional wines, as the three Marlborough sub-regions have different growing conditions and show distinct identities and characteristics in the wines. Wairau Valley Sauvignon (think Nautilus 2012, Wairau River Reserve 2012, Mahi Wine 2012) tends to have riper tropical fruit; Awatere Valley wines (Astrolabe 2011, Yealands Estate Awatere 2012) show more pronounced green and leafiness, while wines from the Southern Valleys have more volume and citrus characters. In addition to the exploration of sub-regionality, wines like the Staete Landt Duchess 2008 and Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2009, utilize partial oak fermentation and/or aging, to add the complexity and creaminess of oak to the bright, vibrant fruit of the Marlborough.

Although best known for the Savvy, wineries here also produce very good Pinot, both Noir and Gris (Seresin Raupo Creek Pinot Noir 2008, Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2009 and Mahi Pinot Noir 2010; Seresin Pinot Gris 2010, Momo Pinot Gris 2010; Wairua River Pinot Gris 2011, Cloudy Bay Pinot Gris 2011), in addition to a smattering of Chardonnay and other aromatic whites (Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier) worth a taste.

Central Otago

View from “tasting room” at Mount Difficulty

The history of grape growing in Central Otago dates back over a century even though the region’s international reputation as Pinot Central is relatively recent. Pinot Noir is the most widely planted red grape in Central Otago, as well as in New Zealand as a whole, and thrives in the rugged landscape and continental climate of the region. Central Otago is divided into several sub-regions with the Alexandra sub-region being the southern-most wine growing area in the world. If you’re a Pinot lover, then this is the place for you, with well- known producers Felton Road, Mount Difficulty, Carrick, Akarua and Two Paddocks, along with a handful of others, like Quartz Reef and Peregrine, which should be on your radar if they aren’t already.

Many of the wineries here and throughout New Zealand, have been certified through the New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainable Winegrowing scheme, which includes a commitment to protect the place where the wines are made, along with a commitment to improve economic, environmental and social outcomes, locally and globally (New Zealand Wine website for more info). A number of Central Otago producers like Quartz Reef and Felton Road are also seriously committed to organic and biodynamic grape growing and winemaking practices, to protect the fragile soils of the region and because they believe it results in better wines. In addition to Pinot Noir, keep an eye out for superb Rieslings from Peregrine, Mount Difficulty and Felton Road.

Sustainable Vineyard at Carrick Wines

While Central Otago may be best known for Pinot Noir internationally, other regions make a range of styles, from the black fruit of Central Otago, to the bright red fruit and earlier drinking styles of Marlborough, and everything in between from Martinborough and Canterbury/Waipara. The progress of Pinot Noir has been fuelled by the tri-annual Pinot Noir Conference, where winemakers, media, trade and consumers from New Zealand and around the world converge to get a snapshot and better understanding of the prospects and promise for Pinot Noir. The fifth edition of the Pinot Noir NZ 2013 conference takes place in January with further impressions and stories to follow by David Lawrason and John Szabo in Wine Align.

What’s next for New Zealand?

While still in its adolescence, I definitely got the sense that the New Zealand wine industry has a sense of purpose, confidence and maturity beyond its years. Many whom I met seem determined to figure out what to do next, what to plant where and what the second phase of their international success will look like. While Canada is the fourth largest export market for New Zealand wines, it’s not always easy to sell in our market. Many wineries I spoke with explained how, in comparison to the UK and US, the Canadian market is perplexing and difficult to establish a long term business relationship with liquor boards, in particular for smaller producers who don’t have the volume and find it hard to sit on stocks for a tender they might not get, especially when they can easily sell their wine elsewhere. It’s a familiar lament from small producers everywhere and which the recently launched initiative mywineshop.ca, to create private, specialized wine stores, would surely benefit both smaller producers and the range and selection of New Zealand wines available in the Canadian market. (For more on the private wine shop initiative, read what my WineAlign colleagues have written on the subject in these recent WineAlign articles: John Szabo’s Vintages Preview and David Lawrason’s Take).

Until the next time:

Janet’s New Zealand Picks
All Reviews by Janet Dorozynski

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Janet Dorozynski, New Zealand, Wine

Sustainable Chile by Janet Dorozynski

Chile: The Natural Choice

Janet Dorozynski

Many have long known that Chile is a sliver of viticultural paradise, with near perfect growing conditions and free from many of the pests and diseases which plague other regions of the world. So to go greener, from an environmental perspective, has been a relatively easy and natural choice. But as wine lovers in Ontario discovered earlier this month, Chile’s sustainability drive has gone much farther  to encompass the social and economic dimensions of wine production as well.

The 9^th annual Chilean Wine Tasting at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto showcased 30 wineries and more than 150 wines. There were also seminars for the trade and media, which I was invited to moderate. One focused on the industry’s new sustainability initiative, while we tasted wines from wineries that have been certified under Chile’s Sustainability Code.

The discussion was led by James Robinson, a Chilean and Masters Candidate in Sustainability Management at Columbia University. He was joined by winery principals from Emiliana, Cono Sur, Via Wines, Pérez Cruz, San Pedro, De Martino, Santa Ema, Los Maquis and Ventisquero who talked about various initiatives undertaken by their wineries –  reduced water usage, flash heat treatment to kill vineyard pests, and gardens and orchards for winery workers.

Sustainability by definition is a broader concept than organic or biodynamic viticulture.  According to the winemakers who were in Toronto, sustainability is a concept, a philosophy, a way of farming and a way of doing business that makes sense.

Initiatives were begun in Chile by wineries wanting to adopt a sustainable approach, and needing a system to measure or verify sustainable attributes.  Caliterra and Errazuriz, along with representatives from the University of Talca in Chile, developed the first protocol for sustainability, which was based on the programs used by regions such as South Africa, New Zealand and California, along with the best practices used by Chilean producers.

The initiative is now under the leadership of the technical arm of Wines of Chile, which is the trade organization representing 90 of the country’s producers. Sustainability is part of the association’s 2020 Strategic Plan, with the goal to become the world leader of sustainably produced wines by 2020. While the program and code are still in the early stages, there have been 20 wineries certified with an additional 23 set to do so.

How Chile’s Code Works

Chile’s Sustainability Code is divided into three “chapters”, with each chapter covering a different aspect of sustainable practices.

The “green” chapter focuses on issues related to the vineyard, i.e. the management of natural resources and agro-chemical use and pest and disease control, which applies to new plantings and established vineyards alike. While sustainability doesn’t necessarily guarantee organic or biodynamic winemaking practices, or prohibit pesticide or herbicide use, which are monitored by the various organic and biodynamic certification bodies, it does examine and measure a winery’s waste management, composting and recycling programs and energy usage, which the latter do not.

Chile’s Sustainability Code

The “red” chapter looks at what happens in the winery:  how water and energy is utilized along with measures to reduce waste and prevent pollution during the winemaking process. As  water and energy use is a key  environmental element in sustainable production, the Wines of Chile program contains a network of meteorological  stations in each of the wine growing areas, in order to better  understand and monitor weather and climate, so as to better manage use of water, spraying regimes and vineyard practices.

The “orange” chapter takes into consideration the social aspects of production and the community at large, by looking at purchasing criteria, job conditions and the work environment, ethics and how the winery interacts with the community and consumers.

The entire system or sustainability code is assessed against a series of rigorous standards and a score-card system, which is verified by a third party, external certification body. According to James Robinson, verification and measurement is crucial since “you cannot manage what you don’t measure”.

It is the winery, rather than the wine, which is certified for sustainability. Wineries meeting the code are eligible to use the logo “Certified Sustainable Wine of Chile”.

Sustainability in the Glass?

Lofty goals indeed and some at the seminars were left wondering how this process will affect the quality or taste of Chilean wine. I myself haven’t noticed much difference in the taste of sustainable wines and am not sure we will in the short term, since the program is designed to make the wine making process and wineries themselves more sustainable, rather than measuring or managing issues of taste.

However, in the long run, sustainable practices will benefit the wineries (and all Earth residents) as custodians of the land, workers in terms of improved working conditions, pay and old-age security and, ultimately consumers, who can be sure that Chilean wines are being made with a greater respect for the land and workers with minimal environmental and social impacts.

We will start to see more sustainable Chilean wines entering the Canadian market over the months ahead so keep an eye out for the logo and neck tags on bottles of sustainably produced wines. For more information on Chile’s Sustainability Code and certified wineries visit the websites: www.sustentavid.org and www.winesofchile.org

A handful of sustainable Chilean Wines worth trying:

Oveja Negra 2011 Single Vineyard Carmenere, Maule Valley ($15.95)

Opaque, deeply coloured wine, with intense fresh and dried dark berries and cream on the nose and palate, with the leafy spiciness that is often found in Carmenere.  Medium to full bodied with smooth but present tannins. Quite soft with good structure and balance and a dry, long finish. A dense and textured wine that is good value for the price.  Drink now. Part of the October 27 Vintages Release.  Tasted October 2012.

Ventisquero Vertice 2007, Apalta, Colchagua Valley ($29.95)

Vertice is a blend of 51% Carmenere and 49% Syrah with fruit from selected vineyards in Apalta in the Colchagua valley. The wine is the project of Chilean winemaker Felipe Tosso and Australian John Duval and is a heady mix of red and blue berries, black pepper spice, cedar and vanilla. Firm, silky tannins with a firm structure and balanced acidity, the finish is long and harmonious. The wine saw 20 months in French oak (33% new wood) and a further 10 months in bottle before release.  A good match for grilled steak. Can be cellared for 5 to 7 years.  Tasted October 2012.

Maquis Lien 2008, Colchagua Valley ($29.95)

Los Maquis is one of twenty Chilean wineries certified under the new Sustainability Code, which establishes guidelines to measure environmental and social responsibility. The 2008 Lien wine was featured at the recent Wines of Chile annual tasting and seminar in Toronto and is a blend of Carmenere, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.  It’s a bold, medium to full bodied red that is ripe and balanced with soft tannins and plush fruit intensity on the medium long finish. Drinking well now.  Tasted October 2012. (Note: The 2006 Vintage is being released Oct 13)

Errazuriz Max Reserva Syrah 2010, Aconcagua Valley ($18.95)

An expressive nose of dark fruit and berries, alongside a melange of cooking spices and earth tones.  On the palate, the wine is definitely more syrah than shiraz in flavour, though the structure is reminiscent of the latter. Dense and full bodied with generous soft tannins and a long finish. Ideal with braised or roasted beef.  Drink now and over the next 3 to 5 years. Tasted October 2012.

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley ($19.95)

This is a bold wine to be sure, with characteristic cassis and dark berries along with spicy, savoury notes on the nose and palate.  Ripe yet elegant, the wine is full bodied with firm, ripe tannins and sweet vanilla oak.  A long intense finish.  Drink now with BBQ ribs.  Tasted October 2012.

Filed under: News, Wine, Janet Dorozynski, Sustainability, Wines Of Chile

Celebrate with Canadian Wine on Canada Day

We thought we would have some fun this Canada day and asked our critics to pick one of their favourite Canadian varietals, explain why they choose it and include a few excellent examples.   What better time to drink Canadian wine then when your toasting Canada’s 145th birthday.  Drinking local has never been easier, or more enjoyable!

Janet Dorozynski

Cabernet Franc - Janet Dorozynski

Cabernet Franc is one of Canada’s most interesting red grapes and definitely the red Bordeaux grape variety that is best-suited to our shorter growing season, even though it is often over-shadowed by Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Characteristic herbal and floral notes with a touch of spiciness are typical for well-made Cabernet Franc, with flavours trending towards red pepper, rather than green pepper, in riper vintages. In Canada, Cabernet Franc produces elegant cool climate wines and has shown that we can produce numerous very good wines from this grape. Notable producers include Featherstone, Tawse, Thirty Bench and Stratus in Ontario, along with Burrowing Owl, Pentage, Hester Creek and Tinhorn Creek in British Columbia.

Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2010

Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007

Southbrook Whimsy Cabernet Franc 2008

David Lawrason

Pinot Noir – David Lawrason

The thin skinned, petulant and generally difficult red grape of Burgundy has long been a favourite, not because every pinot is a glorious taste sensation, but because its variations are so markedly different; each expressing something about where it is grown. With pinot, the fun is in the chase, and Canada has emerged as a great place to be a pinot hunter. First it generally expresses a cool climate, Burgundian style of pinot. This is not a quality statement in itself, but in cooler climates the wines are lighter and more easily reflect their origin. I love good pinot from Oregon, California, New Zealand and Australia too, but in Burgundy the nuances are incredible. Canada provides a similar cool climate mirror, and it is now very obvious to me that there are different pinot terroirs here – sub regions within the Okanagan, on Vancouver Island, different pockets within Niagara and Prince Edward County, and Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley.  Where next? How about the escarpment hills above the Beaver Valley near Collingwood, or the south-facing slopes along Lake Ontario between Cobourg and Brighton. In Canada, the pinot story is only in its first chapters.

Le Clos Jordanne 2009 Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula

Inniskillin 2009 Montague Vineyard Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula

Norman Hardie 2010 County Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County

Sara d’Amato

Riesling – Sara d’Amato

Riesling has a lot in common with Canadian national identity. First, it is one of the noblest varieties on the planet, and like Riesling we are a country renown for our elite exports in the likes of Christopher Plummer, Karen Kain, and Leonard Cohen. It is also one of the most age-worthy varietals out there and like Riesling, Canadians have one of the longest life expectancies in the world, prolonged by our (albeit, underfunded) universal health care system. Riesling is incredibly nervy and dynamic, just as we are a thriving, scientifically progressive nation advancing both stem cell research and robotics. Last, we are incredibly expressive of our home soil – no explanation needed.  And if the above reasons are too much of a stretch for you then consider that Canada produces some of the most exceptional Rieslings in the world, which ought to be a source of national pride.

If that’s not enough to make you crack open a bottle of this plucky diva of a varietal, then here is one final pitch: fireworks. Riesling is a perfect embodiment of a pyrotechnic display in bottle as it is bright, vibrant, has tremendous tension and a great capacity for inspiring awe. This delicious wine with star power and shock value is sure to thrill on this most patriotic of nights. My top picks include:

A traditional, sweetened to perfection style:

Rosewood Natalie’s Süssreserve Riesling 2009, VQA Niagara Peninsula

Canada’s iconic Riesling made by Niagara’s Riesling specialists:

Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2009, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula

One of the most consistent and well-priced selections at the LCBO:

Henry Of Pelham Reserve Off Dry Riesling 2009, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula

Chardonnay –  Steve Thurlow

Ontario it seems is one of the best places in world to produce fresh pure chardonnay. Our cool climate and relatively short growing season suit this grape well. Moreover as stylistic preferences have shifted from big rich honeyed heavily oaked wines to fresher lighter hardly oaked wines, Ontario is better able to perform.

In recent years the quality has improved and the 2010 vintage was especially good for chardonnay such that there are several well-priced wines in the LCBO stores.

I have chosen two that are great value and widely available. The first is un-oaked and the second is so lightly oaked that it is tough to tell the difference. So pick up a few bottles of both and enjoy lightly chilled with all manner of dishes.

Coyote’s Run Unoaked Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada $13.95

Jackson Triggs Black Series Chardonnay 2010, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada $11.95

John Szabo, MS

Who to Party With on Canada Day  - John Szabo

Consider these two Niagara wines: 2010 Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay $21.95, made by Ann Sperling, and the 2010 Ravine Vineyard Meritage $24.95, made by Ann’s husband, Peter Gamble. Both Peter and Ann are fervent believers in the superior results produced by biodynamical farming. Southbrook is Canada’s first Demeter-certified winery, and Ravine will be certified for the 2012 harvest, but has been practicing the methods for almost four years now (Ravine has been organic since the beginning). Ann’s chardonnay is a reflection of the warmer 2010 growing season and the Niagara-on-the-Lake sub-appellation, with it’s rich, soft texture and sweet caramel and baking spice flavour – a more new world style example that will appeal broadly. Peter’s Meritage is a terrifically juicy, vibrant, lively and stylish red blend, with a fine balance of ripe but grippy tannins, juicy acid and modest, sip-all-afternoon 12.5% alcohol. Together they’re a great pair to party with.

Filed under: News, Wine, Canada, canada day, David Lawrason, Janet Dorozynski, John Szabo, Sara d'Amato, Steve Thurlow

The Long and Winding Road to Free Our Grapes: Cross-Border Shopping and Shipping of Canadian Wine – By Janet Dorozynski

Federal-provincial jurisdictional issues are not usually on the minds of most Canadians while they savour a glass of wine. However, over the past few months, wine commentary has been intermingled with discussions on the right to sell and ship wine across provincial boundaries by Canadian wineries and consumers alike. Domestic, international and social media have been aflutter with comments about Bill C 311, An Act to amend the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act (interprovincial importation of wine for personal use). 

There has been much speculation as to what, when and how Bill C 311 will alter both a winery’s right to ship wine to consumers in another province, as well as the ability of consumers to legally transport wine inter-provincially.

Some of the stories on the issue have been simplistic and silly, as in a recent network TV item that had MPs blind tasting and guessing the wine’s origin. Others have been riddled with inaccuracies  – i.e. the first reading of a Bill does not make it law; or how it easier to ship wine Texas than to Quebec; and how “Canadians are set to solve their wine shipping dilemma in one fell swoop”…..

The Facts 

Here is an overview of where Bill C311 came from, the current process, and what it could mean for both the wine industry and Canadian wine consumers.

Bill C 311 was introduced last October by Okanagan Coquihalla Member of Parliament Dan Albas as a Private Member’s Bill. Albas has a large number of British Columbia wineries within kilometres of this constitutency office.

The intent of this Bill is to amend a section of the 1928 Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act, which currently makes it illegal for consumers to transport wine, beer or spirits purchased in one province to another, or for wineries to ship directly to consumers in another province. The amendment set forth in Bill C 311 would allow the interprovincial importation of wine for personal use only, specifically:

h) the importation of wine from a province by an individual, if the individual brings the wine or causes it to be brought into another province, in quantities and as permitted by the laws of the latter province, for his or her personal consumption, and not for resale or other commercial use.

Although not a Government-sponsored bill, the Minister of National Revenue, Gail Shea, announced government support for Bill C 311, stating that the current law was stifling the growth of the Canadian wine industry. The Bill sailed through the House of Commons receiving unanimous, all party approval on June 6, then it breezed through second reading in the Senate on June 11.

The Bill has now been referred to the Senate Committee on Banking, Trade and Commerce, with hearings on the Bill set for June 13th at 4pm. http://www.parl.gc.ca/SenCommitteeBusiness/Notice.aspx?parl=41&ses=1&comm_id=3&Language=E&meeting_id=13171

Although this is the same Committee that is studying the omnibus Budget Bill, C -38,  the wheels of government appear to be moving quickly so wine lovers can be hopeful for a timely review, and perhaps Royal Assent, for upcoming summer months.

What will change with Bill C 311?

Once the Bill passes, it will no longer be a federal, criminal offence for individual consumers to transport wine from one province to another in Canada. According to Dan Albas “federally the Bill is clear that it is no longer in contravention of IILA to directly transport or ship wine (and cider) across provincial borders”.

However, once the Bill becomes law, provinces would still have jurisdiction over and be responsible for determining the amount of wine that can be shipped into their province or brought in with their residents. Provinces and liquor boards in Ontario, Nova Scotia and British Columbia have stated that they will allow a personal exemption of one case of wine (9 litres) to be brought “on your person” into the province.

Many wineries and consumers see this restriction to one case as contrary to the “spirit” of  Bill C-311 and are calling for freer and open access once the Bill becomes law.

Currently, the majority of Canadian wines (85% and higher depending on the province and winery) are sold through the winery as opposed to liquor boards or wine stores, as this provides the maximum possible financial return and profit margin for wineries and because some of the smaller wineries do not have the economies of scale to have national distribution or in export markets.

So direct to consumer shipments from on-line orders, as well as purchases made by wine tourists, would strengthen and provide another, alternative sales channel for wineries, as well as increased opportunities for other companies in the value-chain, like couriers and shipping companies, which been very supportive of Bill C 311.

If and when provinces allow personal exemption limits, Canadian consumers will have greater choice and access to wines from across Canada.

How Will the Provinces Respond?

The provincial liquor boards and their national association, the Canadian Association of Liquor Jursidictions, have been meeting in Quebec City over the past few days and have been discussing what they and the provinces will do.

According to the testimony by Rowland Dunning, executive director of Canadian Association of Liquor Jurisdictions to the House of Commons Finance Committee this April, ”The impact on our businesses and provincial revenues from allowing direct sales could be substantial “.

It may happen that provincial governments come out in favour of a unified approach, with a similar personal exemption limit for all e-commerce shipments across Canada, or that interprovincial purchases be limited to that brought back home with wine tourists.

One thing that is certain is that further dialogue is needed among governments and their constituents, so that the measures that are put in place reflect the needs and desires of both consumers and the industry.

In an unprecedented move and show of support by wine lovers, the weekly #BCWineChat on Twitter http://bcwinechat.com/ will be #FreeMyGrapes on Wednesday, June 13, so that those across wineries and consumers across Canada can tweet with the hashtag #FreeMyGrapes to show their support for Bill C 311 and the need for implementation measures to make it easier to order wine from across Canada.

Other notable details about Bill C-311.

According to the legislative definition of “wine”, as summarized in a recent Library of Parliament paper on Bill C 311 for the purposes of the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act, the definition is not restricted to wine but will extend to cider, hard lemonade and wine coolers.

It would not however, apply to craft brewers or distillers, which have left some in the industry wondering why the Bill only includes some Canadian beverage alcohol products.

The Bill will also not extend to purchases made by restaurants, though the Canadian Restaurant and Food Services Association issued an open letter to Members of Parliament, applauding Bill C311 as a good first step though stating that they are “ concerned that the amendment does not go far enough and we urge you to also exempt wine purchased by restaurants”. (http://www.crfa.ca/aboutcrfa/newsroom/2012/regarding_bill_c-311.asp)

Bill C311 becoming law is only the first step to freeing our grapes and making Canadian wines more widely accessible for all to try.

WineAlign is vitally interested in this issue. We already have 100s of reviews of Canadian wines that are not easily available in local liquor boards, and as Bill C311 expands the reach of Canadian wines, we will be there with professional reviews to help you buy wisely.

Filed under: Wine, Bill c-311, Bill C311, Janet Dorozynski, News

New Zealand Wine Fairs Showcases Latest Trends – by Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

The New Zealand Wine Fair recently made its way across Canada, touching down in Vancouver, Calgary, Ottawa and Toronto. As Ottawa is often overlooked for these types of events, I was delighted to take part in the trade tasting and a winemaker’s dinner, which was part of the Visa Infinite Dinner Series.

This year’s Wine Fair has certainly reinforced that New Zealand as a wine region is at the top of its game, and that its best wines are yet to be discovered. While exports to Canada continue to grow at a steady pace, it is obvious that Kiwi winemakers are not resting on the laurels of their success with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but have ambitiously embraced innovation and are looking towards a future that will include other impressive whites and red grape varieties.

The main trade tasting featured wine from 23 producers and was, not surprisingly, dominated by New Zealand’s current flagship white and red, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. The standout Sauvignon Blancs included the (almost over the top) Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (to be released in Vintages in June), Churton Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (in Vintages this July) and Waimea Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Nelson, available through Churchill Cellars. In addition to the crisp unwooded Sauvignons, with characteristic gooseberry and tropical notes, there were a number made in the Fume Blanc style (i.e. partially or fully oaked). Some, like The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from Giesen Estate (Michael Andrews Brands), with a modest five percent of the blend matured in older French oak, were intriguing and had a creamy richness. However, I couldn’t help but wonder if there had to be a better way to diversify or invigorate the Sauvignon Blanc category, rather than subjecting this aromatic and crisp cool climate white to varying degrees of butter and toast.

The reds I tasted were mostly Pinot Noir, both from well-known Central Otago, as well as from lesser-known (for Pinot), but equally appealing, Marlborough. The Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir 2010, available through the Small Winemakers Collection for $43.75, and the TeMara Estate Mount Pisa Pinot Noir 2009, both from Central Otago, were particularly enjoyable, with the vibrant fruit and complexity one has come to love in Central Otago Pinots. The Rock Ferry Pinot Noir Bendigo 2009, also from Central Otago, and in fact most of the wines from this small winery looking to make inroads into the Canadian marketplace, also stood out and are worth keeping an eye out for (thelivingvine.ca).

The success and focus of the New Zealand wine industry, along with the overall quality of the wines, has been nothing short of remarkable over the past decade or two. We can see however, the desire to branch out and become known for more than just Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. It was in this vein that the self-pour format wine seminar for the trade highlighted some of the country’s up and coming aromatic white varieties – Pinot Gris (and thankfully not Grigio), Riesling and Gewürztraminer, along with Syrah, whose plantings and interest from winemakers has been dramatically outpacing that of other white and red varieties over the past decade. The well-priced Waipara Hills Pinot Gris 2011 (vinexx.com) and Waimea Nelson Dry Riesling 2006 (churchillcellars.com) stood out for me among the aromatic whites, with a good buzz among the trade.

As for the Syrah from Hawkes Bay and Waiheke Island, the stunning Trinity Hill 2009 Homage Syrah from Gimblett Gravels (ccwineco.com) and John Forrest Collection 2007 Syrah (abconwine.com), also from Gimblett Gravels, both showed a “Northern Rhone” finesse and elegance, along with bright and spicy fruit flavors, which the Waiheke Island Syrah didn’t have.

The multi-course dinner was held at SideDoor Contemporary Kitchen and Bar, with Executive Chef Jonathan Korecki at the top of his game. We began dinner with a glass of Oyster Bay Cuvee Rose NV “methode”, which is what New Zealanders call sparkling wine. We also tasted wines from well-known producers Villa Maria, Babich and Coopers Creek, alongside the new kid on the block (for Canada anyway), Marlborough-based Rock Ferry. The torched Albacore tuna sashimi was a perfect companion for the fresh and lively Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Marlborough, which offers great value at $14.95. With the delicious roasted New Zealand lamb rack, we tried the Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2009, also from Marlborough and coming to Vintages, which drove home the point that Central Otago is not the only place where good Pinot Noir can be made in New Zealand

Filed under: Wine, Janet Dorozynski, New Zealand, pinot noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine

Trend Spotting at the California Wine Fair

by the WineAlign Team

The California Wine Fair rumbled through southern Ontario, drawing about 2,500 trade and consumers between events at Ottawa’s Westin Hotel on March 30 and Toronto’s Royal York Hotel on April 2. In Toronto there were over 600 wines opened from over 130 wineries, many of them presented by winemakers and export directors, who came to see what all the fuss is about. For over 25 years the California Wine Fair has been the friendly giant of wine events in both cities – the place to be – helping California maintain its dominant market share in the province at the LCBO (4^th after Ontario, Italy and Australia) and particularly at Vintages, where California remains #1.

Evan Goldstein

The California Trade Luncheon has helped cement the relationship between California and the LCBO, largely thanks to a deft PR move where each year the LCBO is invited to address the wine trade, trotting out all the recent sales stats.

There is also a guest speaker from the U.S. to provide perspective on a wine world that is not viewed through the LCBO fish bowl.

This year Evan Goldstein, a California based wine educator turned brand consultant, laid out the top ten trends.

Top Ten California Trends
1) The resurgence of white wines led by pinot grigio and moscato.
2) The chardonnay renaissance and the death of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement.
3) The rise of natural wines.
4) The growth of alternative varietals (non-cabernet, chard, pinot, zin).
5) The rise of new cool climate terroirs “at the edge of ripeness”.
6) Rethinking the traditional wine list and restaurant wine service.
7) Redefining palates with new styles and blends.
8) Wine on tap.
9) The rise of bloggers and social media.
10) Sommeliers becoming winemakers.

WineAlign critics in both Ottawa and Toronto did some trend-spotting of their own. Many of the wines they found are not available at the LCBO or Vintages. We have linked those wines that have been reviewed at WineAlign, and provided links to our Wine Agent database to help you track the others. Here are their reports, beginning with an overview by Margaret Swaine, who was out of the tasting room nursing a broken wrist but still able to make some notes at lunch.

Margaret Swaine on A Few Key California Wine Trends 2012

The economic recession south of our border brought California wine prices down and has pretty much kept them there over the past several years. At the same time wine diversity is growing and many wineries are paying more attention to quality by keeping oak and alcohol levels in check. However light harvests in 2010 and 2011 will likely dry up most of the excess stock that’s played a role in the aggressive discounting of the past several years. Pricing going forward is likely to go up.

Sales of U.S. wines (95 per cent of which come from California) are up over 11 percent in Canada from the previous year. The top three sellers nationally namely Gallo White Zinfandel, Carlo Rossi Burgundy and Barefoot Pinot Grigio fall into the cheap and cheerful under ten dollars category. However in fourth position, Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois Red which has an average selling price across Canada of nineteen dollars, has enjoyed huge sales increases in the past year. A newbie on the market Apothic Red is sixth in sales volume. This bold blend of zinfandel, merlot and syrah, (average national price $14.75) came from nowhere to sales of close to 100,000 cases. Not yet in the top ten but with huge gains in sales is Mirassou Pinot Noir.

Currently over 1,500 growers and vintners have adopted the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance’s Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices representing almost 70 per cent of the state’s vineyard acreage and wine case production. Parducci has gone as far as naming a wine Sustainable Red. This robust blend comes from grapes grown on family farms using sustainable practices, with green power, earth-friendly packaging and made in the first US carbon neutral winery.

Sara D’Amato on Moscato, Sparkling and the Chardonnay Renaissance

California has an undeniable appeal to Ontarians. The wines of California are now the bestselling category in Vintages and sales in every varietal category are increasing with remarkable zeal. This year’s California tasting showcased a slew of new trends among producers and consumers that prove that California is indeed cutting edge and a competitive tour de force. Watch out world ‘cause California is dreaming big!

The rise of muscat was a topic all abuzz by representatives and winemakers beyond high-rolling Napa and Sonoma. A relatively inexpensive grape to produce that has a proven track record in California since at least the 70s, it is quickly rising to favor among consumers and producers alike. This has driven sales of this fragrant, flirtatious varietal to the number two spot in US whites. Muscat is an incredibly versatile variety and produced in a plethora of styles across the globe including the frizzante, dry, semi-sweet and dessert wines. The varieties of muscat are even more varied but one thing they all have in common is a richly perfumed nose and a playful, friendly nature.

Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery has been producing muscat since 1978, and suggests pouring it over fresh fruit for a simple, satisfying dessert or as an ethereal aperitif like Eberle Muscat Canelli 2010, Paso Robles ($21.95). Muscat Canelli is more commonly known as muscat blanc and is most famously used in the Italian Moscato d’Asti. Like WineAlign colleague Janet Dorozynski (below), I was also impressed by winemaker Jim Moore’s Uvaggio Moscato Secco 2010 ($19.95), which exhibited delightfully fresh tropical fruit, ginger, succulent lime and was one of the few dry styles of this variety.

On the other end of the muscat realm is the Quady Elysium Black Muscat 2010, a half bottle dessert wine steal at $14.95. Black Muscat is used as a blending table grape throughout southern and eastern Europe, but is expressed most beautifully in the sweet dessert wines of California and also Cyprus. Try it with chocolate for an indulgent treat. Quady Essensia Orange Muscat 2010 ($13.95) is also worthy of a taste and is available through Vintages.

Sparkling wine also appeared to be trending, if the many delectable examples and ample prattle among the trade was any indication. Two appealing Méthode Traditionelle sparklers proved California’s ease in competition with other cool climate specialists. First was Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée 2007 ($21.95), a Pinot dominant blend with such surprising grace and restraint from a region traditionally known for its bold appeal. Domaine Chandon also shone with a fresh, elegant example full of subtlety: Chandon Blanc De Noirs Sparkling Wine 2009 at $24.95.

If California’s soul lies in cabernet and chardonnay, then these last few years of ‘anything but chardonnay’ have surely been a nuisance. Thankfully, chardonnay is stepping up to the plate and redefining itself in California. Progressive styles focusing on purity of fruit, acidity and the expression of terroir through this rather neutral grape are taking form and seducing wine drinkers all over again. Davis Bynum Winery, a subset of Rodney Strong has their finger on the pulse. Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2010 ($29.95) uses only French oak, leaves no residual sugar after fermentation and is bottled without filtration. The resulting wine is delightfully crisp, pure and aromatic. Stefen Soltysiak, Director of Education for Rodney Strong, mentions that over the next few years, the winery plans on ratcheting down the level of oak so that consumers are able to gradually adapt to this new, reformist style.

California is nothing if not innovative. Its capitalist undercurrent keeps it afloat competitively and it is constantly evolving despite the fact that its admirers are perfectly happy with the region’s typically hefty cabernets and buttery chardonnays. It is because Californians are one step ahead that they rarely waver far from the top.

Janet Dorozynski on Eberle, Heitz and Uvaggio

Held at the Westin, the Ottawa leg of the tour had slightly fewer wineries than in Toronto, but nonetheless featured a representative showing of producers of all shapes and sizes: from the largest and well known, to wineries who produce less than 10,000 cases a year. It was encouraging to see the turnout of about 300 to 400 participants during the trade portion of the stop in Ottawa.

The one wine that did it for me was the 2008 Eberle Côtes-du-Rôbles (represented in Ontario by Lifford/Prevedello & Matthews). I used to drink this wine by the case when I lived in Belgium in the 1990s, so I was glad to taste it again and learn that it will be released through Vintages this fall. Gary Eberle was responsible for putting the Paso Robles appellation on the map and was the original Rhone Ranger (sorry Randall Grahm), having first planted syrah in Paso Robles in 1975 and producing the first US syrah in 1978. It is believed that a significant proportion of Californian syrah can be traced to the original plantings in Eberle’s Steinbeck Vineyard, which is one of the few remaining ungrafted vineyards in the State. The Côtes-du-Rôbles 2008 is a blend of mourvedre, syrah and grenache, with depth of fruit and concentration, though not at all jammy as some California Rhone blends can be. The Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, which is the winery’s flagship, was also a show standout and will be released through Vintages on April 28.

The wines of Heitz made me think back to what great California wines were several decades ago, having both grace and power, before alcohol and levels of extraction rose into the stratosphere for many Californian wines. The 2006 Estate and Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon, display intense concentration and depth of fruit, with the restrained elegance that Heitz has always been known for. The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and 2009 Chardonnay, were dry, crisp and balanced, with zesty fruit and well-integrated oak in the case of the Chardonnay. Heitz wines are available through Lifford Wine Agency in Ontario.

Uvaggio, producing mainly Italian grape varieties in Lodi, was a discovery for me with well-made and well-priced wines. It also reconfirmed just how well-suited Italian grape varieties are for many of California’s wine regions. Uvaggio is the largest producer of vermentino in California and their spicy, minty white is coming to Vintages April 14. They were also pouring that delightful Uvaggio Moscato Secco 2010, made from moscato giallo, a grape that is not widely grown or even officially recognized under U.S. wine laws, so hence the wine being labelled Moscato Secco. This wine is dry, floral and intensely flavourful and head and shoulders above some of the other moscatos appearing in the market now. I was also impressed with Uvaggio’s rich and fleshy 2010 Primitivo and 2009 Barbera, which will hopefully make their way into our market as well.  Until then, Uvaggio is represented in Ontario by Wine Lovers Agency.

Steve Thurlow on Pinot Noir and Thomas Fogarty

During the trade luncheon it was announced that sales of California pinot noir at Vintages had grown by 139% in the last year. Now that is a big number given the state of the economy! I do not normally need an incentive to taste these beautiful red wines; but my mission for this day became clear. Just what was going on with pinot from California that might explain this surge in popularity. Off I went, glass in hand into the tasting room.

I had tasted about 25 pinots by the time I got to Dierberg Estate Wines and was delighted with the Dierberg 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley. Dierberg is based in Santa Ynez sharing quarters with Star Lane (see David’s notes below), but the pinot is grown in estate vineyards near Santa Maria. This is a superb wine with a degree of elegance and purity rarely experienced. Also from Dierberg, the less expensive Three Saints Pinot Noir 2009 offers great value. Both are available by the case from the Kylix Wines.

In the 1990s when I was an import agent, I represented wineries from the Santa Barbara part of the Central Coast in California. I was reminded of just how great their pinots can be; and it was not just by the wines of Dierberg. The trend that I spotted is for light to mid weight, elegant, structured pinot noir mostly from cool coast regions like Santa Barbara, Monterey and the Sonoma coast. Most of the best are more than $30 but well worth it. Now that’s a lot of money for many wine lovers so I decided it was time to see just what you can get for less than $20 in pinot from California. After trying a few that really did not deliver I stumbled on Aquinas Pinot Noir 2009 from Napa Valley; a bright lively fruity pinot with some complexity and decent length. Moreover, I was delighted to discover, since I spend a lot of time seeking value, that it will arrive on the LCBO shelves this summer for only $17.95. It will be on my WineAlign shopping list and should be on yours.

Dr Thomas Fogarty

While still on my pinot hunt, I came upon the Thomas Fogarty Winery and Vineyards table where I met Tommy Fogarty, so I got a bit sidetracked.  I have long admired his wines from the cool Santa Cruz Mountains area. He was pouring four wines each of which in its own way was excellent. It is rare at an event like this that you like every wine on the table. Gewurztraminer 2009 from Monterey is pure and fresh with lifted aromas and a ripe rich fruity palate and at $17.00 is a good buy. Pinot Noir 2009 from Santa Cruz Mountains shows excellent varietal character and is also a good buy for $26.00. Lexington Meritage 2006 also from Santa Cruz Mountains is well structured elegant cabernet merlot blend that will come to Vintages in September 2012 and is well worth its $47 price tag. The fourth wine was my favourite for sheer value for money plus it is the easiest to buy since it is on the LCBO shelves in many stores. Chardonnay 2009 is a modern styled, slightly oaked wine with a lovely nose and a lively pure creamy palate and very good length. And it’s only $24.40. I love cool climate chardonnays like this, which are a pleasant change from the over-oaked over-ripe buttery old style ones that still seem to make it into our market.  (Thomas Fogarty is represented in Ontario by Intra Vino Inc)

David Lawrason on Merlot, Red Blends and Alt Reds

Happy Canyon, Star Lane Vineyard

Ever since merlot had sand kicked in its face by that big bully pinot noir in the movie Sideways, the once popular middle-of-the-road grape has been sidelined, at least by trend-spotting trade and media types. On a visit to California in January when I tasted close to 200 wines only six merlot were presented, and likewise in the media tasting room at the California Fair, only four merlot were being shown. At lunch I had been very impressed by 2008 Star Lane Merlot (represented by Kylix Wines in Ontario) from Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. (Only California could have a place called Happy Canyon). This was rich, ripe complex and very elegant with impressive depth. Although Santa Barbara’s coastal vineyards are much better known for chardonnay, pinot and syrah, the warmer inland areas are ideal for Bordeaux varieties, and this new venture proved a revelation. I also really very much enjoyed the rich, powerful 2007 Twomey Cellars Napa Valley (Halpern Enterprises) and the more Bordeaux inspired 2007 Beringer Merlot (Treasury Wine Estates). I feel a longer article on merlot coming on.

My main mission was to explore California’s red blends. Given the importance of so many red varieties in California’s Mediterranean climate, surely there is a lot of dynamic blending going on. Well there are more and more all the time, but blends still have a long way to go to rival the popularity of cabernet sauvignon. In the media preview tasting room set up in Toronto there were about 20 red blends presented, and well over 40 cabernets. The red blends were roughly divisible into three camps – the Bordeaux blends, the Rhône blends, and the Bordeaux-Rhône (or cab-syrah) blends. More importantly, quality was all over the map, and swung completely on price.

Among the more expensive Bordeaux based blends my favourite was 2007 Star Lane Red (see the merlot above) from Santa Ynez, actually very good value at $44 compared to Napa reds. The 2009 Signarello Padrone (Profile Wine Group) from Napa is also excellent but it is way up there at $159. Among the Rhône based blends I was mightily impressed by Deep Sea 2008 ($24.95) from a new-to-Ontario unrepresented brand from Conway Family Wines which is sourcing all its wines from maritime vineyards on the Central Coast and Carneros. My top cab-syrah inspired blend was – by far – 2009 Justin Isoceles ($73.95), a thriller from Paso Robles that we can look forward to at Vintages. (The 2008 Justin Vineyards Isosceles is currently out of stock.)

And finally, I dabbled among some “other reds”, a catch-all category for everything else. One of the most impressive was the solid yet refined Stags Leap Winery Petite Syrah 2008 at $44.95. The last nod goes to Oakville Ranch 2007 Cabernet Franc (Profile Wine Group), which is too expensive at $99, but it provides a glimpse of what can be done with the grape that most California vintners fear to try lest their wines actually have some greenness.

For a complete list of wines from our California Wine tour click here.

Filed under: News, Wine, California, David Lawrason, Janet Dorozynski, Margaret Swaine, Moscato, Sara d'Amato, Steve Thurlow

Ontario’s Cuvée 2012 Winning Wines and Pinot Noir Expert’s Tasting – By Janet Dorozynski and Sara d’Amato

Team WineAlign was in Niagara last weekend for the 24th edition of Cuvée, where we attended the Cuvee Gala and the Annual Expert’s Tasting held at Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). This year’s Experts Tasting theme focused on Ontario Pinot Noir.

Cuvée 2012 Winning Wines

Cuvée 2012

The Cuvée Weekend is a fund raiser for the Niagara Community Foundation with proceeds benefitting community groups across the Niagara region.  The Gala event on Friday evening and En Route tastings at wineries throughout the weekend, were open to the public, allowing consumers to try and buy winning wines from the Cuvée Wine Awards.

One of the highlights of the Gala evening is the announcing the winners of the Cuvée Wine Awards, with this year’s competition seeing 264 wines from 64 wineries entered. The wines were judged by a panel of 51 Ontario winemakers. The complete list of winners and information on Cuvée 2012 found on www.cuvee.ca

WineAlign critics David Lawrason, John Szabo, Sara d’Amato and Steve Thurlow attended a pre-Cuvée media tasting to taste all the winning wines and you can check out their reviews on WineAlign to see how our tasters palates compared with those of the winemakers.

Meanwhile, here are some of Sara d’Amato’s top Cuvee picks. Most are only available directly through the winery. Traditionally many Cuvée wines sell out quickly – perhaps even over the Cuvée weekend itself –  so one must be quick on the draw.

Tawse Spark Rosé 2009, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Ontario, Canada, $39.95
1^st Place Winner Sparkling Wine Category
Vibrant and elegant, this is the first incarnation of the Spark Rosé by Tawse Winery.

Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2011, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula Ontario, Canada, 89011, $19.95
2^nd Place Winner Sauvignon Blanc Category
Upbeat, flavourful and oozing with charm, Featherstone’s recently bottled Sauvignon Blanc is a head-turner.

Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2009, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 566026, $29.95
3^rd Place Winner Riesling Category
A serious, focused and polished effort from Riesling veteran Cave Spring, built to withstand the test of time.

Creekside Estate Winery Viognier Reserve 2010, Niagara Peninsula VQA
Ontario, Canada, $29.95
2^nd Place Winner Viognier Category
Lush, aromatic, exotic and flavour-packed sums up this memorable, mouth-filling Viognier from Niagara’s Rhone varietal experts.

Palatine Hills Proprietor’s Reserve Merlot 2007, Niagara Lakeshore
Ontario, Canada, $24.95
1^st Place Winner Merlot Category and Best Red Wine
A ripe, substantial, fruitcake Merlot with bold, integrated oak and the structure to age gracefully.

Colaneri Estate Winery Insieme 2009, Niagara Peninsula VQA Ontario, Canada, $34.95
1^st Place Red Blend Category
Produced from lightly dried grapes, this concentrated blend is a brazen showstopper.

Sue Ann Staff Estate Winery Riesling Icewine 2007, Niagara Peninsula (375ml) Ontario, Canada, $50.00
1^st Place Limited Edition Dessert Wine
An exceptionally complex array of flavours and unctuous nature perfectly balanced by searing acidity and produced a leading Niagara icewinemaker.

Ontario Experts Tackle Pinot Noir

The 23rd annual Expert’s Tasting at Brock University Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute (CCOVI) is a tasting for trade only, designed to examine a specific grape variety or wine style.  Winemakers, sommeliers, buyers, educators and media taste blind (without knowing the wine) to see how these grapes or wines are doing in Ontario. The wines were submitted by wineries and selected by a panel of winemakers, writers, sommeliers and educators. Past topics have included Sparkling wine, Chardonnay, red blends and Riesling with this year’s theme being “Pinot Noir and its siblings in Ontario”.

Thomas Bachelder, an accomplished Canadian-born winemaker whose had made pinot noir in Niagara, Oregon and Burgundy, France, made the very important point that “tastings of this kind are very necessary in young regions like Ontario, so that we are asking questions and seeking the answers about what our regions, appellations and sub-appellations have in common and what makes our wines different and unique”.

While vine age varied and winemaking styles were not identical in the wines we tasted, the Expert’s Tasting demonstrated that Pinot Noir in Ontario is beginning to show some common and identifiable traits within the sub-appellations. A few years ago VQA divided the Niagara Peninsula into sub-regions or appellations based on varying climate and soil conditions.

The first flight of wines set before the crowd of over 150 trade and industry professionals included other members of the Pinot family – Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc along with the always delicious Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Sparkling Rose made from Pinot Noir.

Another flight had us looking at Pinot Noir from the warm 2010 vintage. Interesting examples by G. Marquis (Niagara-on-the Lake)  and Hinterbrook (Lincoln Lakeshore) . both showed a more juicy and fruit forward style, thanks to the warmth of the year.

We also tasted a group from older vintages – 2002, 2007 and 2008.  The Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve 2002 (Niagara Peninsula) still had plenty of life and was evolving nicely. The Hidden Bench Felseck Vineyard 2008 (Beamsville Bench) showed rich cherry fruit and tea characteristics, which the group thought might be characteristic of Pinots from the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation.

Another flight featured the 2009 vintage, considered the year of the Perfect Storm, and the most highly rated vintage for Ontario Pinot Noir to date. This flight included standout examples from Malivoire (Niagara Peninsula), the Lailey Lot 48  (Niagara Peninsula) and the Foreign Affair Pinot Noir (Niagara Peninsula), which contains 40% dried (appassimento-style) grapes in the wine.

The final “Wine Options” flight tried to work out and identify specific characteristics of Pinot Noir from Ontario’s sub-appellations. The Niagara College Teaching Winery Dean’s List (VQA St. David’s Bench) showed spicy and floral notes, while the trio of wines from the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation (Tawse Winery Cherry Avenue Vineyard 2009; Flatrock Cellars Reserve; Rosewood Estates Natural Ferment) were showing a thread of commonality in terms of dark berry flavours, higher but balanced acidity, dried herbs and minerality, which appear to be linked more to texture than an actual flavour attribute.

The Experts Tasting also announces winners of the “Promote the Promoters Awards” that recognize exemplary promoters of Ontario VQA wines. This year’s recipients included John Maxwell of Allen’s on the Danforth for Hospitality, Astrid Brummer in the LCBO Category, Angelo Pavan of Cave Spring Cellars for Promoter-at-Large and Ken Douglas, VQA Chair and founder of 13^th Street Winery for Lifetime achievement.

Filed under: News, Wine, Cuvée, Cuvée Awards, Janet Dorozynski, Ontario, Sara d'Amato

South Africa Ten Years Later: My Voyage Back to the Future – by Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

I was recently in South Africa, tasting, visiting wineries, as well as drinking a fair bit of wine, after not having been back for a decade. I was fortunate to have spent the better part of my year in 2000, living in South Africa and working for Wines of South Africa (WOSA) in Stellenbosch but had not been back since.

As a result of my time in South Africa, as well as several previous visits, I have always had a strong, inexplicably visceral attachment to all things South African. Even though I’ve been working with the Canadian wine industry since my return to Canada, through judging, reviewing and teaching, I have closely followed the wines and industry progress over the past decade.

I am delighted to have an opportunity to provide an update on several facets of the South African wine scene:  New Wineries and New Investment,  New Grapes and New Wines, New Regions, New Initiatives for a New Industry, and The Shift from Grape Farming to Wine Growing.

An Overview of the Progress

South Africa Wineland

South Africa’s winelands are widely acknowledged as the most stunning in the world, surrounded by two oceans, crisscrossed by dramatic mountain ranges and valleys and dotted with picturesque, centuries-old wine farms. I was working in the country ten years after Nelson Mandela’s release from prison and able to have an insider’s look at the players and an industry that had been undergoing profound and rapid changes. This allowed me to become very familiar with many of the great wines and producers that never did, and still never do, make their way to Canada. (Some of those that do are linked to WineAlign reviews below.)

It was fascinating to see how much had changed since I left in late December 2000, from the structure and growth of the industry, to the changes in pricing, style and quality of wines produced. As well, I was able to meet new producers and catch up with familiar faces from the past.  Just before I arrived in 2000, wine exporters had transitioned from a voluntary, membership-based industry association to an inclusive model, which represents all exporters and is funded through a statutory levy on table and sparkling wines exports. Though not without challenges and detractors, this model has been a positive change for the industry and South African wine exports in general, making it possible for all exporters, under the helm of Su Birch, the dynamic CEO of WOSA, to work collaboratively on innovative international initiatives to advance exports in a few key markets over the past decade.

With the end of Apartheid and the international boycott on South African wines in the 1990s, winemakers and the industry were anxious to re-connect with the international arena and catch up after a period of economic isolation. South African wine exports represented 26% of total wine production in 2000 and almost doubled to 48.5% in 2010.  Along with the move back into traditional export markets of the United Kingdom, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium, the new millennium saw the expansion to markets in Japan, Scandinavia, the USA and Canada. More recently, South African wines are being sold in new and emerging markets such as Russia, Asia, in particular China, and in other countries within the African continent.

South African wine exports to Canada have increased five-fold since 2000 (1.5 million liters in 2000 compared to 7.5 in 2011), however the selection seems to come in waves, going from periods dominated by high-volume, value-priced wines to times dotted with more listings of lesser-known, higher quality wines from smaller, quality-driven producers.

So what has changed since I was last in South Africa in 2000?

New Wineries, New Investment

There were just under 400 wine farms in 2000 and this number has grown to 573 in 2010. Then as now, the industry has a significant concentration of big wineries, brand owners and cooperatives, which has altered somewhat through a series of mergers, acquisitions and consolidation. The KWV (Cathedral Cellars, Café Culture Pinotage and Roodeberg), the former cooperative that once regulated production quotas and pricing for the industry), no longer holds the power and prominence it once had. However, along with Distell (Obikwa, Drostdy-Hof, Two Oceans, Stellenzicht, Durbanville Hills, Fleur du Cap) and Douglas Green Bellingham (Boschendal, The Beachhouse and others), these companies make up between a quarter and third of all South African wine exports. Smaller producers (60,000 cases or less) remain an important force in the industry and account for approximately 46% of the country’s production.

Looking back at some of the wineries I visited recently, Tokara had just finished construction in late 2000 but had yet to produce any wine, Waterkloof did not even exist and Delaire Graff was simply Delaire, producing some good wine under Bruwer Ratts (who now produces under his own label) in a spectacular location.

Delaire Graff

Following a forty million pound renovation by English diamond magnet Laurence Graff, Delaire Graff is a must see and stay destination for wine tourists who crave luxury and pampering.  The Estate has two top restaurants, a clothing boutique and Graff diamond shop on the premises, as well as well-appointed guest cottages and a spa, which were listed by Conde Nast Traveller and Travel and Leisure Magazine as among the best new hotels in the world.  The focus is on Bordeaux  varieties with winemaker Morne Very making a powerful yet elegant Bordeaux  Blend with Shiraz called Botmaskop (the nearby mountain peak which he has climbed), as well as rich Chardonnay, minerally Sauvignon Blanc and a layered, complex Cape Vintage fortified wine from traditional Portuguese grape varieties.

Tokara

Tokara Estate is the neighbor to well-known Thelema  and located on the crest of the dramatic Helshoogte pass between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch.  A state of the art wine making facility, olive farm and restaurant, winemaking is overseen by Miles Mossop, who was just starting out in 2000 and one of South Africa’s new generation of winemakers. Although the wine production facility was completed at the end of the 2000, the premium range Tokara labels were not released until 2006. The fruit is sourced from vineyards on the estate, as well as properties owned in cooler Hemel-en-Arde and Elgin.

The Tokara Director’s Reserve White is among the Cape’s finest white blends, the 2010 being an exquisite blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc (unoaked) and 30% Sémillon (aged in French oak) that is stylistically similar to a fine white Bordeaux. There is also an impressive Director’s Reserve Red that blends ripe, New World fruit with Old World structure and elegance.   I also tasted the 2009 Shiraz, containing 12% Mourvedre and well put together, which could benefit from a few years in the cellar. See here for notes on the 2007 Zondernamm Shiraz and Tokara 2007 White.

Waterkloof Wines

One of the newest wineries to open in the Cape is Waterkloof Wines, situated in the Helderberg sub-region of the Stellenbosch District. The winery and vineyards are mere kilometers from False Bay, which is one of South Africa’s cooler growing areas. UK wine importer Paul Boutinot is the owner, or custodian as he calls himself, who has invested in South Africa with a commitment to produce sustainable, fine wines. Werner Engelbrecht is the accomplished viticulturalist and winemaker, who practices sustainable and biodynamic farming practices. The winery building is modern and simple, perched high atop Schapenberg Hill, with spectacular views of False Bay from the tasting room and restaurant.

Waterkloof is represented by Family Wine Merchants in Ontario and the winery produces several tiers of wine. The False Bay series contains very good value and well-made red, white and rose while the Waterkloof range includes the Circle of Life 2010 White, a complex, textured  blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Chenin Blanc and 5% Semillon to be released in July 2012. Other outstanding wines include the racy and concentrated Waterkloof 2009 Sauvignon Blanc as well as the Circle of Life 2009 Red, a full-bodied, refined blend of Merlot, Shiraz, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Like well-made South African red blends, it combines purity and richness of fruit, fine-grained tannins and real finesse.

Other South African wineries that were barely in existence in 2000, but worth seeking out, include Sadie Family Wines, Ataraxia, Mullineux  and Badenhorst, some of whose wines we see in Canada.

New Grapes, New Wines

Over the past decade, the industry has latched on to fads and gone through phases, similar to all New World regions in search of renovation or reinvention.  South Africa wineries have experimented with critter labels, focused on Sauvignon Blanc for whites, and most recently, with Pinotage (a native South African crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault) as “coffee” wine, which seems to have captured the imagination of Canadians, and those in other export markets, in a way that Pinotage alone was never able to.

The fascination with single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon wines was starting to wind down a decade ago, while the interest for all things Shiraz/ Syrah was heating up. Very good producers include Boekenhoutskloof, Mullineux and Spice Route. Plantings of Shiraz/Syrah have increased from 6% to 10% of total vineyard area in the last ten years, although Cabernet Sauvignon also increased from to 9% to 12%. Both are currently the top red grapes and while you still see a fair amount of single varietal wines, there has been the shift to blends – Rhone blends, more Bordeaux blends, Syrah blended with Cabernet, or into Cape Blends, South Africa’s red blend containing a significant proportion of Pinotage.  Some budget-priced red blends worth trying are Thelema Mountain Red, Boekenhoutskloof Wolftrap Red, and Post House Blueish Black.

While the share of white grape production had dropped from 64% to 56% by 2010, the whites I tasted were extremely impressive, perhaps overall better than the reds. Chenin Blanc and Columbar (used mainly for bulk or boxed wines) are the main grapes for white wines, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.  Recommended whites include: Ataraxia Chardonnay, Iona Chardonnay and Boekenhoutskloof Wolftrap White.

Chenin Blanc, known as Steen in South Africa, is believed to be one of the original grape varieties brought to the Cape colony in 1655 and is incredibly versatile for dry, sweet and sparkling wines and ages very well. Producers like Ken Forrester FMC and Petit Chenin have shown that South African Chenin is capable of producing luscious, crisp and concentrated wines that can rival the best of the Loire any day. Sadly, and despite the efforts of groups like the Chenin Blanc Association to increase the profile and instances of quality South African Chenin Blanc, plantings of Chenin have gone down the past decade, the slack being taken over by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

New Regions

Just as Shiraz was beginning to make a name for itself a decade ago, the Swartland district was just starting to generate the buzz that is much louder today. This region reportedly clocks in some of the country’s hottest day time temperatures and is among South Africa’s driest growing area, with cool evenings and cooling breezes from the frigid Atlantic Ocean, making for ideal growing conditions.  Historically home to Chenin Blanc and other commercially unfashionable grape varieties (i.e. not a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc here), the “Swartland Revolution” was a movement afoot over the past decade, led by Eden Sadie, among others, who “rediscovered” the region while making wine at Spice Route Wines in Malmesbury.

The exodus of winemakers like Sadie and Adi Badenhorst from Stellenbosch to Swartland was accompanied by an influx of newcomers like Mullineux and Lammershoek who share a commitment to winemaking and viticultural practices that respect and celebrate low yields, old bush vine vineyards, dry land farming, manipulation free wine making and a lighter use of oak.  The Swartland Revolution, part manifesto and part marketing, is also an annual celebration that has taken place over the past two years, with the next event set for November 9-10, 2012.  For more information of the event, the Revolution and winemakers check out The Swartland Revolution.

The search for cooler growing areas has also resulted in the creation of new regions and districts under the Wine of Origin (appellation) scheme.  Elgin had started to be recognized as a cool growing area (literally and figuratively) and is home to Sauvignon Blanc producer Oak Bay. Other new areas that came into existence that we see from time to time on bottles include Bot River, Elin and Cape Point, home to the highly rated white blend (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon) Islied from Cape Point Vineyards.

New Initiatives for a New Industry:

Wine has been made in South Africa for centuries (the first harvest dates back to 1659) and it is surely the world’s oldest New World wine region. The South African wine industry has also been inextricably linked to colonialism and apartheid, as well as the resulting socio-political conditions and their impact on some of the people who have worked in the industry.  Although much of the abuse and poor working conditions historically existed on grape farms as opposed to wine estates, the aftermath on the rural communities of the Cape has been far reaching and long lasting on South Africa’s black workers.

While no other wine industry has had to account for its labour practices or living conditions of its workers, not to mention the distribution of land-ownership, wealth or power within their wine industries, the South African wine industry has acknowledged the history and risen to the challenge to redress past wrongs by investing in a series of comprehensive initiatives for black workers.

South Africa Wineland

Stemming from a government country-wide initiative called Black Economic Empowerment (BEE), designed to promote economic growth, develop skills and create greater equality and opportunities for disadvantaged communities, the wine industry adopted a Wine Industry Transformation Charter in 2007.  This plan, complete with scorecard and broad-based measures, recognizes the need for and implements increased training and education opportunities, ethical trading practices, preferential procurement, and the transition to ownership and management control, among others.

Still a work in progress with challenges ahead, the past fifteen years have resulted in noticeable changes in the number of black winemakers, black-owned wine ventures, a myriad of joint ventures, along with so named Black-owned Brands.  Tukulu is an early venture between Distell, a group of black entrepreneurs and a community trust whose workers work and live on the farm.  Many of these wines often find their way to export markets since it is easy to find shelf space and funding for export activities.

Other initiatives which came into existence over the past decade include programs and measures focused biodiversity and sustainability (mandated for all products exported). Sustainability measures had already been underway when I arrived in 2000, with independent sustainability certification for producers who minimize chemical use, protect biodiversity, clean up waste water and ensure people, as well as environmentally friendly practices.  By 2011, 85% of wine labels will sport the Sustainability seal. Similarly, the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative is partnership between the wine industry and conservation sector to protect threatened wildlife habitat and contribute to sustainable wine production, so as to preserve the floral splendor of the Cape winelands.

The Shift from Grape Farming to Wine Growing

Overall, I would say that one of the biggest changes I saw was the improvement in the quality of the wines. The upgrading of vineyards, improvements in viticulture techniques, investment and retooling of wineries and the education of a new generation of winemakers, who travel and work outside the country, has begun to pay off in spades.  Plant diseases, like leaf roll virus, which some say are responsible for off, burnt flavours in red wines, are now kept in check through elimination of water stress on the vines and earlier picking, as Boschendel winemaker Lizelle Gerber explained. Todays red wines are cleaner, more balanced and have less oak treatment than in the past.

South Africa Wineland

The most notable change in quality was in the white wines, with Chenin Blanc from Beaumont, the aromatic white blends from producers like Mullineux and Sauvignon Blanc from Waterkloof standing out, with fresh acidity and pure flavours and concentration, as more as more producers seek out cooler growing areas, higher elevation vineyards and learning more about optimal picking times. In essence, what has really been happening in South Africa over the past decade or two has been the shift from grape farming to wine growing, which has had a tremendous impact on quality and bodes well for the future.

We still don’t see many of the really interesting South African wines in Canada, with current offerings not reflective of the breadth and quality of wines produced in South Africa today. This is partly because producers have focused their efforts on the UK, a challenging market which nonetheless accounts for 30% of total exports, or on markets like the US, the Holy Grail for many South African producers.  I recall hearing from a South African producer who had travelled to Canada in the fall of 2000 and remarked that there was “greater demand and interest in South African wines than the industry realized and a distinct level of boredom in the wines that were available and offered to buyers”. To some extent, this might explain what is still at work today and why South African wines have yet reach their potential in our market.

---

Filed under: Wine, Delaire Graff, Janet Dorozynski, South Africa, Tokara Estate, Waterkloof Wines, Wineries