Feisty Spirited Armagnac; Margaret Swaine’s Spirits Review

Feisty Spirited Armagnac

Margaret Swaine

Armagnac from the Gascony region of south-western France doesn’t play second fiddle to its more famous spirituous neighbour to the north, Cognac. Documents prove Armagnac was distilled over 700 years ago around 1411, making it by far the oldest eau de vie in the country and beating Cognac to the puncheon by some 150 years. It’s feisty, distinctive and individualistic like the Gascons portrayed in The Three Musketeers and Cyrano de Bergerac.

Armagnac’s heritage is the marriage of three great cultures: the Romans who introduced the grapevine to Gascony, the Moors who brought alembic distillation (they used the alcohol to make perfume) and the Celts who taught the Gascons about oak barrels. By the late 15th century, Armagnac stills were common in Gascony.

Gascony, about an hour and a half drive southwest of Bordeaux is still a highly agricultural region. The department of Gers in the region is the number one producer of duck in France. You know what that means: duck confit, magret, grattons (crispy duck skin), cassoulet and of course foie gras is on the menu. Duck fat replaces oil and butter in cooking. These artery plugging dishes are miraculously neutered by a glass of Armagnac after a meal. (In 2005 researchers at the University of Bordeaux discovered Armagnac drunk moderately and regularly helps prevent heart attacks and thrombosis. Further studies showed rats on a high fat diet and Armagnac did not gain weight versus rats on the same diet that got only the ethanol.)

Armagnac is produced from the distillation of white wine. Ten grape varieties can be used but in practice most growers cultivate just four: ugni blanc (also called Saint-Émilion), colombard, folle blanche (aka piquepoul) and baco blanc (also known as baco 22-A). Folle blanche was once the favoured grape in the area but it has been mostly replaced by baco blanc, a cross of folle blanche and the hybrid Noah. The highly acidic ugni blanc is the common grape used for cognac.

The Armagnac Appellation Contrôlée was defined in 1936 and comprises of three regions. The most important is Bas Armagnac (57% of vineyards), which has a sandy, silt soil structure that yields grapes of higher acid making generally rounder, supple Armagnac with finesse and a characteristic plum fruitiness. Ténarèze (40% of vineyards) is in the centre of the appellation and produces the most robust, rich brandies with aromas of violets. Haut-Armagnac (3%) produces brandies of lower quality and most growers have switched to corn, wheat, soybean and other crops.

Some producers like Larressingle marry the brandies of Bas Armagnac and Ténarèze to create a blend that captures both the robust warmth of Ténarèze and the mellow, fruity elegance of Bas Armagnac. Larressingle XO is a divine example.

Centuries ago Armagnac was distilled twice in pot stills. Since the first half of the 19th century, most Armagnac is made in a simple continuous alembic column still in a single distillation. Mobile distillers still service small farmers quickly performing the alchemic conversion in a few days. Since 1972, pot stills have been permitted in the appellation as well as double distillation but less than a handful do this.

As soon as the Armagnac is distilled, it’s placed in 400 litre oak casks for aging. The famed local oak (black oak) is in limited supply today and many producers now purchase barrels made from staves from forests further north, such as Limousin and Tronçais. (A Gascony legend states that casks should be made from oaks that have watched the vines grow but alas for many today this is no longer practical.)

Once the barrels are filled, the true transformation begins as the spirits age and first take on vanilla notes, which change to caramel and then toffee. Floral notes dissipate with time and flavours and aromas of dried fruits such as prune develop. With more age come nutty aspects and rancio notes akin to aged sherry. Armagnac in fact needs time to tame its feisty character. While the law says two years minimum, many are blends of multiple vintages. The spirits in bottles marked VSOP or Reserve are a minimum of five years old , the youngest in an XO, Napoleon, Extra or Vieille Reserve blend is six and that of Hors d’Age is ten and older.

In reality, some of the oldest in a blend can be much more aged than the law requires. The delightful Armagnac de Montal VSOP for example has brandies that have aged in French oak up to 20 years. The classy Domblat Napoléon 10 Year Old, is just that, and the label indicates it was bottled on July 5, 2012 from cask #4-5. Bas Armagnac Castarède 20 Year Old XO is still lively, perfumed with violets and lavender yet with power and length. Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac Napoléon boasts a minimum of 10 year old brandy and with its great price and sweet approachable warmth, it’s the fastest selling Armagnac in America.

However my favourite are the vintage dated Armagnac, which must all come from the harvest of the stated year. Cognac producers were only given the right to produce single vintage eau-de-vie in recent years. Armagnac on the other hand has been producing them since the beginning. It’s a special thrill to purchase a birth date vintage for a loved one or for pure self indulgence. Producers such as Chabot have stocks that date back to 1888. When you buy a vintage Chabot, it comes with a parchment paper sealed around the bottle with wax that certifies the exact year of harvest and the exact day and year of bottling. All brandies only age while they are in barrel so the date of bottling is a clear indication of the actual “taste” age of the product. The elegant, complex Chabot 1982 I tried was bottled July 12, 2012 and it showed all the beauty of age. Armagnac de Montal 1993 is elegantly aristocratic with ginger notes in the finish.

Normally I throw out a bottle once it’s empty. Not so for my Vintage Armagnac from my birth year. Those who see the bottle on display in my house pretty much can guess why I’ve kept it around. The allure of Armagnac trumps vanity.

Cheers!

Margaret Swaine

For all of Margaret’s picks click here: Margaret’s Whisky and Spirits

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Spirits, Armagnac, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, SPirits, Vintages

St. Patrick’s Day Libations; by Margaret Swaine

Margaret Swaine

We’re all Irish at least for a day in March when St. Patrick’s Day rolls along. St Patrick, a missionary who worked in Ireland converting inhabitants to Christianity, died on March 17 in the fifth century. His day has been seized upon as the greatest excuse for a party ever. It’s a public holiday in Newfoundland and Labrador on the nearest Monday to March 17. The rest of us can be content with wearing green and eating and drinking Irish.

Cook up an Irish stew, some colcannon (mashed potatoes with cabbage or kale) and Irish bacon or get creative. On a trip to Northern Ireland, I found lots of delicious twists on tradition Irish dishes. Yes there were often five or more versions of beloved potatoes on the menus but those were sides to the exciting main dishes.

A Selection of Irish Cheeses

There was fresh fish, oysters and mussels plucked from clear Atlantic waters. Tender lamb and 28 day dry aged beef came from animals raised on the green grasses of the countryside’s rolling hills. Scones hot from the oven served with rich thick whipped cream and local jams were far too prevalent a temptation. Irish farmhouse cheeses numbered over 80 selections from blues to cheddars to creamy camembert-types.

The menu in the Oak Restaurant at the Slieve Donard Resort boasted Lissara Farm free range chicken, sirloin steak from John Killen’s Farm and rack of County Antrim pedigree Dorset lamb. Desserts included a light and airy lemon carrageen moss pudding (a type of local seaweed). At Balloo House, voted pub of the year in 2009, the delicious chowder was thick with chunks of smoked haddock. Finnebrogue venison shepherd’s pie with celeriac mash was comfort food knocked up several notches of sophistication.

The thick, triple cooked chips (fries) which showed up on many menus are reason alone to visit Northern Ireland.  You’d ditch your diet for them as you would for the champ (mashed potato with chives), colcannon, buttery mash, sautéed potatoes with leeks and potato bread.

At Mourne’s Seafood restaurant in Belfast I dined on a fresh, gently cooked seabass with bacon and clam velouté. Tiny scallops were translucent and tender while monkfish was punched up in flavour with Sicilian peppers.

Preparing the Pigeon

Ardtara Country House is a member of Ireland’s Blue Book, an association of unique manor houses, historic hotels and restaurants. These independently owned properties often supply a superb meal along with accommodation and Ardtara lived up to that promise well. The dishes were inventive, beautifully presented and featured local farm produce. Carpaccio was a slender slice of dry aged fillet of Comber beef with peppery wild watercress and warm brioche. Lamb was done two ways – the loin and a shank pie presented together. Homemade Irish whiskey ice cream with coffee panacotta capped the meal with panache.

The icing on this cake of good eating was Belle Isle near Enniskillen in County Fermanagh. This country estate on its own island has a top cookery school which offers day, weekend and four week diploma courses. Master Chef Liz Moore started my lesson with a wood pigeon, feathers and all, laid out on a cutting board. “Belle Isle’s a shooting estate,” she announced. “We do a lot of game here.” Whereupon she cut the breast meat out of the pigeon in one deft move without having to pluck it. This is a place where students can learn how to Shoot, Pluck and Cook. Now that’s farm to table.

A Selection of Irish Whiskey

As for libations…what could be better than an Irish whiskey. I wrote at length in WineAlign last year about the state of Irish whiskies in the current market. Here’s a recap of a few pertinent details. The distilleries operating in Ireland are: Midleton Distillery (the Irish Distillers Group main distillery: Jameson, Powers, Paddy, Midleton, Redbreast, and others), Bushmills Distillery (Old Bushmills, Black Bush, 1608, Bushmills 10-, 12- and 16- and 21-year-old single malts) and Cooley Distillery (brands such as Connemara, Tyrconnell, Locke’s, as well as Kilbeggan Distillery which reopened in 2007). There are also a growing number of the independent Irish bottlings such as The Irishman, Teeling Whiskey Company and Feckin Whiskey.

Cooley (now owned by Beam Inc.) is the distillery that shook up the market in 1987.  Founded by John Telling with the goal of reintroducing the North American market to quality Irish whiskey, Cooley departed from the accepted definition of Irish whiskey as being triple distilled and unpeated. He revived historic brands such as Tyrconnell and created a family of Connemara double distilled peated single malts.

Cooley’s Inishowen Peated Blend is blended from peated and unpeated malts and grain whisky. The brand originates from the A.A. Watt distillery in Derry, in the late 1800′s. It’s named after the Inishowen peninsula on the northern tip of Ireland, which was well known as prime for the illicit production of “poteen”. (By 1822 there were as many as 800 illicit stills in operation.) This is gently peated with sweet fruity elements and a vein of malty sweetness throughout. It finishes with a slightly spiced bite. Value priced, it’s a nice balance of malt and grain with whiffs of peat.

Also from Cooley Distillery and an excellent value is Locke’s 8 Year Old Pure Pot Still Single Malt. Double distilled in traditional pot stills, it’s made from whiskies aged between eight and ten years. Smooth, medium-bodied with lots of pot still character, it’s nicely rounded with sweet, malty, fruity notes and spicy oak. Vanilla and a touch of peat (ten per cent of the malt used was peated) make it very tasty indeed.

Bushmills can with fair authority claim to be the oldest distillery in the world. The royal licence to distil in the district of Bushmills was granted in 1608. Situated in the quaint town of Bushmills, Northern Ireland, it takes its name from the River Bush and all the mills that used to be on it. A popular tourist destination it attracts over 100,000 visitors a year. To mark its 400th anniversary in 2008 Bushmills came out with an innovative brand called 1608.  This fine, rich and deep whiskey is made using a special process that toasts barley into crystal malt (so named for its crystal shape). The barley malt takes on a dark chocolate brown colour and imparts a chocolate toffee flavour to the whiskey. (Alas not available at present in our market.)

Bushmills 10 Year Old matured for a minimum of 10 years mainly in bourbon seasoned barrels has aromas of sweet smoky honey, vanilla and milk chocolate that carry through on the creamy palate. Bushmills Black Bush with a high proportion of malt whiskey matured in oloroso sherry casks has nutty, caramel and fruity sherry tastes.

From Midleton Distillery, Jameson Gold Reserve is an opulent and complex whiskey. A blend of selected casks of triple distilled Jameson whiskey, up to 20 years old, it features some whiskey aged in “virgin” (i.e. first use) American oak casks, others in former bourbon barrels and sherry casks. Creamy textured with a rich, sherry, caramel bouquet, it’s full-bodied and layered. Sweet honey, toasted oak, notes of spice and pepper come though in the ultra smooth taste.  It’s quite the stunner.

A new whiskey which appeared in recent years, Writers Tears, comes from The Irishman whiskey line-up. The Irishman whiskeys are the creations of Bernard Walsh who enjoys special access to the warehouses of certain Irish distillers. He selects the casks that are vatted together to produce his whiskeys. He came up with a new type of whiskey: a blend of malt and pure pot still whiskeys. This is a “pot still blend”, since both malt and pure pot still are distilled in the traditional pot still. Other Irish blends contain some proportion of grain whiskey, the output of the less traditional Coffey still.

Raise a glass and toast the Irish on this year of The Gathering Ireland 2013, the country’s invitation to the world to come home and enjoy Ireland’s colourful history, culture and people. To celebrate, about 8,000 people around the world have been invited to march in the St. Patrick’s Day Parade in Dublin. It will be some party – the city’s copious pubs just might be drained dry.

Sláinte!

Margaret Swaine

For all of Margaret’s whisky reviews click here: Margaret’s Whisky and Spirits

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Spirits, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, St. Patrick's Day, Vintages, Whisky

Taking on Chocolate; Margaret Swaine and Janet Dorozynski

WineAlign’s Margaret Swaine and Janet Dorozynski delve into libations with chocolate. Based on common sense and taste chemistry Margaret arrives at desire-enhancing spirit matches, and Janet explains why she likes her chocolate sans vino, and then delivers a trio of romantic reds.

Spirited Aphrodisiacs
By Margaret Swaine

Margaret Swaine

I’ve read that every Valentine’s Day an estimated one billion dollars is spent by the love struck on chocolate for their heart’s desire. There’s reason behind this cocoa craze. Good chocolate has mood enhancing qualities. Chocolate contains phenylethylamine – a feel good chemical found naturally in the brain. And researchers say chocolate may also boost the brain’s production of serotonin, a natural antidepressant. So chocolate is a given, but what to drink with it?

Ginger has for centuries been called a powerful aphrodisiac with suggestions that it increases sexual prowess. This reputation as a natural aphrodisiac comes from its ability to increase circulation including in the erogenous zones. French comtesse, Madame du Barry who was a sensation in Paris as a courtesan and official mistress to King Louis XV, apparently made a practice of serving ginger to her lovers. It was said to achieve the desired results. On sale now in Vintages is a terrific ginger product The King’s Ginger Liqueur ($45.95).

Bols history of distilling spans over 400 years when the Bols family moved to Amsterdam in 1575. Lucas Bols, born in 1652 really put the family company on the map. He was an influential business man during the Dutch Golden Age, when Amsterdam was the world’s major trading city. Lucas Bols had first choice of the ‘new’ herbs and spices that seafaring merchants brought into Amsterdam from the West Indies. With his knowledge of distilling, he created hundreds of liqueurs, by distilling, macerating and percolating those natural ingredients.

In the 16^th and 17^th century liqueurs were made for healing illnesses, afflictions and as love potions. Names such as “Verboden Liefde” (Forbidden Love) and “Volmaakt Geluk” (Perfect Bliss) conveyed the message of miraculous effects. The only modern-day Bols liqueur still connected to love is Bols “Parfait Amour” (Perfect Love), a purple hued liqueur flavoured with flower petals, principally violets and roses, together with orange peel and almonds. Alas this isn’t available at the LCBO.

Blue Curaçao revived in 1970 from an old recipe called “Creme de Ciel” (Cream of the Skies) is nowadays known as Bols Blue. A worldwide success, it’s best mixed in tropical cocktails. This time of year and to match with chocolate, I’d go for Bols Advocaat ($21.95), with its sweet egg custard flavour. A popular advocaat-based drink enjoyed in Italian ski resorts is the Bombardino, made by mixing one part advocaat with one part brandy, served hot with whipped cream on top. Other variations add espresso, rum or whisky into the mix.

Bourbons, cognacs and armagnacs are wonderful matches with chocolate.  Just take a sip then a nibble. A deep and complex cognac like Bowen XO ($184.95) would marry well with dark, high cocoa content chocolate for a perfect finish to a romantic evening. The history of Bowen starts with romance. At some point at the turn of the 19th and 20th century, the great-grandfather of Rene-Luc Chabasse inherited a number of properties and vineyards in the Cognac region. He had a passion for travel and his voyages took him around the globe. On one of these trips that he met and fell in love with Elizabeth Bowen – a young lady whose family had a farm near Pondicherry in south-east India. Smitten, the young man poured all his efforts into creating a particularly aromatic and elegant cognac just for her. The result was a success and the beginning of a journey of a cognac brand that still bears her name today.

Wine and Chocolate: Too Much of a Good Thing
By Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

While chocolate may be a given on Valentine’s Day, and I love great chocolate just as much as the next gal, I prefer to nibble on my morsels of dark chocolate separately from my wine. Even though we hear repeatedly that chocolate and red wine is a match made in heaven, I beg to differ.

Without getting too deep into the science of taste or food and wine matching, suffice it to say that many of the flavour compounds found in chocolate are also found in wine, such as tannins (yes tannins, with chocolate containing more than black tea), flavonoids (a type of polyphenol which gives red wines its colour) and acid. Even though some red wines have hints of cocoa or mocha, because the components of chocolate and red wine are more similar than different, when tasted together, they often clash rather than cohabit.

If you are a subscriber to the classic tenants of food and wine matching, rule number one for pairing wine with desserts or sweet foods is that the wine should be sweeter than what you are eating. Since most of the red wines that we drink today are dry, the sweetness in chocolate, even bittersweet chocolate, will emphasize both the tannin and acidity in red wines and make them taste more acidic and bitter than they actually are.

Many esteemed scholars of wine and wine and food matching concur that chocolate is a difficult match for wine. Emile Peynaud, author of the classic book, The Taste of Wine, explains that although there are many, many styles of wine which will match with countless foods, chocolate, as well as chocolate desserts such as chocolate mousse, are no-no’s and one of the exceptions to this rule.

Food and wine matching goddess Fiona Beckett also views chocolate as a difficult match for wine and if you must have wine with your chocolate, steers you toward sweet reds such as fortified wines (cream sherry, Oloroso or PX; Ruby Port), vins doux naturals from the south of France (Rivesaltes, Banyuls or Maury) or raspberry liqueur. She also recommends cognac with chocolate truffles or “other hand-made chocolates”, as well as black coffee with chocolate cake, which I see as imminently sensible advice.

In my mind, pairing chocolate and red wine falls under the category of difficult, or perhaps unnecessary, food matches, as is the case for artichokes, asparagus, eggs or mackerel. Anyone is of course free to drink and eat whatever they like, or that which appeals to your senses, since the bottom line with any wine and food pairing really comes down to you and what you like. I personally would prefer to savor that box of heart-shaped chocolates on their own and rather sip any of these romantic reds over a meal with my Valentine.

Rosewood Estates Merlot 2010 ($22.00)

Although I’m not always convinced that Merlot has a place in Ontario, in ripe years, and when done right, it can be very, very good. This wine ticks all the boxes with dense black fruit, hints of cocoa-mocha, grippy tannins and fresh, balanced acidity. Substantial yet gracious, with a lingering dark fruit finish. Pure pleasure and a great match for braised shorts and grilled vegetables. Drink now to 2015. Tasted February 2013.

Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgan 2011 ($34.95) 

As a self-confessed lover of all things Gamay, I was thrilled to taste this Beaujolais Cru during a recent visit to Vancouver. With its supple, silky texture, intense red and black fruit flavours and gamey aromas, this is not your typical Beaujolais. Spritely and juicy, with soft tannins and a long earthy finish.  Pure Bliss! Drink now or over the next 2 years. #GoGamayGo. Tasted January 2013. Available in Ontario through Trialto.com.

Loveblock Pinot Noir 2011 ($28.95) 

Loveblock Vintners is the new winery of Kim and Erica Crawford, best known as founders of Kim Crawford.  This is an organic and biodynamic wine with complex red fruit intensity on the nose and palate. Well balanced acidity and structure with firm tannins and well–integrated oak. Red berries and a touch of smoke on the long finish. Sure to please lovers of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Tasted November 2012.

Happy Valentine’s Day from WineAlign!

Filed under: Featured Articles, Spirits, Wine, Chocolate, Janet Dorozynski, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, SPirits, Vintages

Robert Burns Day Drams; Margaret Swaine’s Spirits Review

Margaret Swaine

We’re coming up to January 25 which marks the annual celebration of Scotland’s national bard Robert Burns who lived from January 25, 1759 to July 21, 1796. Many of Burns’ songs and poetry were inspired by the beauty of Scotland, particularly the breathtaking scenery of Ayrshire, his birthplace and the romantic setting of Dumfries & Galloway where he lived in later life. It’s believed his love of nature stemmed from his working life on the family farm in Alloway, Ayr, where he wrote poems such as ‘To a Mouse’, ‘The Primrose’ and ‘A Winter Night’. Burns’ most famed poems are Auld Lang Syne and To a Haggis – the latter is oft recited at Burns Nights. Traditional Burns suppers centre on haggis (innards stuffed in a sheep’s stomach), neeps (turnips), tatties (potatoes) and plenty of whisky and music.

In Scotland it’s the Year of Natural Scotland 2013, and Burns celebrations are planned countrywide, forming the culmination of Scotland’s Winter Festivals. In Edinburgh Scotland’s national storytelling centre has a packed program from January 18 to 26 of Robert Burns related events, including storytelling, music, songs and of course haggis. Events include traditional Burns Suppers, café Ceilidhs, and music nights. In Perthshire, the Famous Grouse Experience (January 25) includes a distillery tour, a dram, a serving of haggis, neeps and tatties and a Burns recital. January 25 – 27 the “Big Burns Supper” is Dumfries’ newest festival of contemporary arts. The program consists of poetry performances, 10 minute Burns Suppers, and a Spiegeltent which will provide a hub for the festival’s live performances from acts such as Deacon Blue and Eddi Reader.

Robert Burns Birthplace Museum

The National Museums of Scotland offer Burns Unbound: over the weekend of 26 and 27 January visitors can for example join celebrity hosts to celebrate the life and work of Scotland’s National Bard by attempting to beat the world record for a mass recital of Burns. In Ayrshire on January 27, Alloway 1759 takes place in and around Burns Cottage and the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum where the streets will be lined with costumed characters and performers. Participants will enjoy such events as horse and cart trips, haggis hurling, The Ayrshire Fiddle Orchestra, Burns Childrens’ Party, Hoots Owls and Willie Stewart singing songs of Burns. The museum also offers visitors a chance to sing or play Auld Lang Syne and become part of Robert Burns Museum. They say “No matter how good or bad a performer you are – Burns himself had a notoriously terrible singing voice – you can add to this growing exhibit by posting your video to our facebook page.”

Of course you can hold your own Burns celebration and you can sing and post a video without leaving Canada. To loosen your vocal cords and get in the mood here are some recommended scotches available at the LCBO:

The Balvenie Double Wood 12 Year Old

Established in 1892 in Speyside, Balvenie grows its own barley, does traditional floor malting, has its own coopers to tend to casks and its own coppersmiths for the cooper stills. This is matured first in American bourbon barrels, then oloroso sherry oak casks both which show in the bouquet and taste. Sweet, rich and warming with vanilla bean, fruit and honey notes, it is unctuous with good depth. Flavourful, layered and velvety mellow with a warm spirited finish, it’s a great dram for winter nights.  (PMA)

Té Bheag Unfiltered Gaelic Scotch Whisky

This is a great value with a neat story behind it. The Gaelic Whisky Collection dates to 1976, when Sir Iain Noble set up a whisky company to create employment in the South of the Isle of Skye and provide authentic whisky for the Gaelic speaking islands of the North West coast of Scotland. Headquartered in the Scottish Hebrides, the Gaelic Whiskies have pioneered the reintroduction of “un-chill filtered” to preserve character. Té Bheag means “the little lady” and is pronounced “chey vek”. A blend of malt whisky with lighter grain whiskies, it’s soft, smooth, malty and delicately peaty (there’s Talisker in the blend). Toffee flavours, and a rich soft finish make it an easy pleasure to sip.

Springbank 10 Year Old

Located in Campbeltown and founded in 1828, Springbank claims to be the oldest independent family owned distillery in Scotland. The full production process is carried out entirely on the one site from traditional floor malting to maturation and bottling. The distillery has never chill-filtered nor added any artificial colourings to their single malts. Aged 60 per cent in bourbon casks, the rest in sherry, Springbank is amber gold in colour with a suggestion of maritime breezes in its bouquet. Intense, with good depth, it has intriguing brown spices, vanilla and bourbon infused oak on the palate. There’s a lovely tang of the sea in the rounded malty finish.

Hazelburn 8 Year Old

Produced at Springbank, pretty Hazelburn is triple distilled and unpeated making an elegant, silky smooth, feminine style of whisky. Delicate and sweetly honeyed, one can find hints of bourbon and sherry especially in the finish. Vanilla, malt and a touch of peppery spice also come forth. This is a whisky that could seduce vodka lovers to embrace the “dark” side.

Highland Park Thor 16 Year Old

The Valhalla Collection has been created by Highland Park to recognize the Scandinavian heritage of the Orkney Islands and the whiskey that’s made there. Four Viking gods have been chosen to have whiskeys created after them in a manner that speaks to their character. Thor as the god of thunder and war packs a punch. At cask strength (52.1%) it’s tough but fair. A few drops of water help open it up to reveal nuts, fruit and a sweet mid-palate from the former sherry casks that it’s aged in. Make no mistake however the sweetness only slightly tames Thor’s power. This is complex with a firm lengthy finish.

Robert Burns Arran Single Malt

From the Isle of Arran Distillers, one of the few remaining independent distilleries in Scotland based at Lochranza on the Isle of Arran, which lies off the West Coast between Ayrshire and Kintyre.  Although the bard never actually visited the Isle of Arran, he certainly would have seen it on clear days as he laboured in the fields of Ayrshire on his father’s farm. At that time there were several illicit stills on Arran which produced whisky. The hooch was shipped to Dunure in Ayrshire – then the centre of the illegal whisky trade – before being shipped to the gentry in Scotland’s major cities where they “took the Arran waters”. This is an eloquent smooth dram, never chill filtered. The nose is of spiced pear, malt and honey. The taste is light, fruity and sweet at first, followed by a nutty, spiced finish. Silky and smooth overall.

Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength 10 Year Old Highland

John Grant, born in 1805, purchased Glenfarclas Distillery in June 1865. To this day, Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky is distilled and matured at the Grant family owned and run distillery. Glenfarclas, which nestles at the foot of the Ben Rinnes Mountain, from Gaelic translates as “glen of the green grassland”. At 60 per cent alcohol this has brute strength and yet has an overlay of sherry sweetness to tame it enough for pure enjoyment. Assertive and dry with spice and smoke, it’s long and full on the palate. Warming and smooth despite the searing alcohol, it’s quite dramatic.

Tomintoul 16 Year Old Speyside Glenlivet

Tomintoul Distillery is located near to the village of Tomintoul, the highest village in the Highlands of Scotland in the prestigious Glenlivet Estate at the heart of the Speyside region. The high altitude, pure air and fine water from the Ballantruan Spring, combine to create the special quality of Tomintoul – the gentle dram. Master distiller Robert Fleming has created an aromatic, yet complex and elegant whisky with this. It has spices, marmalade, barley and touch of florals with a candied ginger and orange peel finish. A dram that fascinates to the end.

Dunkeld Atholl Brose Liqueur

This liqueur is commonly sipped to nicely cap off a Robbie Burns Dinner. A blend of single malt, herbs, spices and honey, inspired by an ancient Highland recipe, it’s sweet but not too. Minty, menthol notes combine with candied orange, tangerine, honey, cinnamon and clove aromas and flavours for a warming liqueur with a subtle cloak of whisky.

AnCnoc 12 Year Old Single Malt

Knockdhu Distillery established in 1894 is one of the smallest in the Scottish Highlands. Nearby Knock Hill, known by its Gaelic name anCnoc, is the source of the pure spring water for the whisky. Very aromatic with the perfume of honey and heather in the bouquet, it’s sweet and fruity with a smooth finish. Some smoke, nuttiness and malt add complexities. Very few bottles are left as of mid-January 2013 so buy now if interested.

Balblair Single Highland Malt 2001

The first release of this vintage, natural colour, non-chill filtered, from a distillery established in 1790. It’s full bodied, malty and fruity, with a bouquet that’s fruit forward with floral notes. The maturation in ex-bourbon casks comes forth on the palate as toffee and vanilla. The alcohol strength at 46 per cent is in harmony with the body and soul of the dram. The finish is long and fruity touched by spice and toffee.

For all of Margaret Swaine’s reviews:

Margaret’s Whisky and Spirits
Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks

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Filed under: News, Spirits, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, Robbie Burns, Scotch, Vintages, Whisky

Lift your Holiday Spirits; Margaret Swaine’s Spirits Review

Margaret Swaine

Not surprisingly November 11 to January 5 (which represents LCBO periods 9 and 10) are the busiest time of the year in the Ontario liquor outlets. Spirits sell particularly well. Forty per cent of LCBO annual sales in XO Cognac occur during the holiday period and about 45 per cent of total LCBO Whisky Shop sales. Since you are clearly ready to splurge and might want some spirits for cocktails here are some tips on what to buy.

Dark rums are popular perhaps in part due to their use in holiday baking, eggnogs, hot rum toddies and the like. However rum has also become a collectible item and connoisseurs appreciate unique aged rums to expand their collections. El Dorado 12 Year Old rum has a special gift presentation ($39.95) this year with two glasses enclosed with the product. This rich, velvety smooth and complex rum from Guyana delivers unctuous flavours perfect for winter nights.

Appleton Estate celebrated the 50^th anniversary of Jamaican independence this year with the release of an Appleton Estate 50 Year Old Rum. The $5,000 price tag is a little rich for most – the Appleton 21 Year Old is a relative bargain at $150. Presented in a redesigned proprietary decanter and canister, it has interesting aromas of slightly mushroomy, old barrels with notes of orange peel, nuts, coffee beans and more.

Newfoundland Screech, a Two Year Old Jamaican amber rum ($25.40) that’s been coming here since the 1700’s (the schooners of Grand Banks supplied salt cod to the Caribbean and brought back rum) is synonymous with Newfoundland and good times. Rock Spirits, a division of Newfoundland Labrador Liquor Corporation, now also offers Old Sam, a Two Year Old Demerara rum from Guyana ($25.90.)

Spiced rum continues to trend upward and is now the third fastest growing spirit category in Canada. Bacardi Oakheart (LTO $25.45) has honey, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg in it. Cruzan Spiced Rum #9 contains nine different heirloom spices ($27.95 with a value added free branded glass while supplies last).

This is the time of year to buy high end cognacs as gifts or as a treat for your home. I’m a real fan of Hine Antique XO Grande Champagne Cognac, a 100^th anniversary blend of 40 cognacs exclusively from the Grand Champagne area, Cognac’s finest growth. It’s currently on clearance sale for $169.95, a savings of $31.75. Courvoisier is the first of the four major Cognac Houses to introduce a product with a declared age (traditionally all cognacs are blends of years) and Courvoisier 12 Year Old Cognac ($89.50) offers bonus rewards miles this holiday season. Remy Martin XO Excellence ($228.) is an opulent blend of 85 per cent Grande Champagne with 15 per cent Petite Champagne. Up to 28 years of vintages and 300 eaux-de-vie are in the mix. De Luze XO Fine Champagne Cognac ($156.85/700mL) is in limited supply but worth searching out for the value. A blend of Grande and Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie, it’s from a house that dates to 1822. Louis Royer XO Cognac ($230) is impressive and rich in depth.

Whiskies of course are a popular gift item and there are many excellent selections in the stores. Balvenie Distillery is unique in that it still grows its own barley, uses traditional floor malting and keeps both coppersmith and cooperage on site. (Well worth visiting on the whisky trail.) They’ve come out with an interesting Peated Cask 17 Year Old Malt but for this time of year I’d go for the Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year Old for warmth and lower price ($103.45). Another interesting whisky, Bruichladdich 16 Year Old Bourbon Cask, is on clearance special for $94.95, a discount of S17.70. The Glenrothes Vintage Single Malt Scotch Whisky 1995 is on LTO for $84.95, a discount of five dollars. Johnnie Walker Platinum Label Private Blend 18 Years ($149.95) is a new “colour” that’s a rich blend of single malt and grain whiskies matured for a minimum of 18 years.

That brings me to bourbon, the fastest growing spirit category in Canada. Jim Beam has come out with Devil’s Cut ($32.95 with a free branded glass until January 5), enhanced with whiskey extracted from barrel wood. Maker’s Mark 46 ($49.95) is barrel finished with wooden seared staves added to the inside of the barrels. I prefer their original Maker’s Mark Kentucky Bourbon ($42.95). Wild Turkey 81 ($28.95) is value priced with a straight on purity of flavour.

And last, but not least by far, premium white spirits are also big sellers at Christmas. A new entry in the tequila market is Tromba. Tromba, founded by an international team including Torontonian Eric Brass and renowned master distiller Marco Cedano (who created Don Julio) has built its reputation by on-premise sales (about 50 per cent of their total). It’s the number two selling deluxe tequila ($39.95 and up) in Ontario after Patron.

New in vodkas are the stylish Elit by Stolichnaya ($69.75 with 20 bonus reward miles) and Flyte a premium vodka made in Newmarket that sells for a great bargain $26.95. Absolut Vodka Unique Edition ($26.45) features a one-of-a-kind design. Every bottle among the four million produced have a different design, all individually numbered. Quite a feature of art.

If the holiday period leaves you too pooped to mix drinks, Crazy Uncle Blood Orange Rosemary & Maple Punch ($17.95), a one-pour culinary cocktail blows every other pre-mix drink out of the ice bucket. Developed by renowned mixologist Frankie Solarik of Toronto’s Bar-Chef it transports the high end bar to your home.

No doubt there’s something for everyone on your list and for you too. Happy holidays.

For all of Margaret Swaine’s reviews:

Margaret’s Whisky and Spirits
Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks

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Filed under: News, Spirits, cognac, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, rum, SPirits

Whisky Rocks; Margaret Swaine’s Spirits Review

Margaret Swaine

Whisky Rocks taking place in LCBO stores to November 10 is a chance to discover more than 140 whiskies featured in 330 locations across the province. A number of the products have Limited Time Offer savings for this period. There’s no better time to stock up before the holiday rush, starting with those of Scotland, a whisky lover’s wet dream.

On the well signposted Speyside whisky trail in the craggy heather covered Highlands you’ll find over a dozen distilleries within a 20-kilometre radius, many welcoming you in for a tour that ends with a complimentary wee dram. At The Glenlivet you can even take a walk on the wild side following the legendary smugglers trails where illicit stills were hid. Long ago an illegal whisky distilling trade flourished in the hidden glens and birch woods of Speyside. A small still could be set up and easily dismantled should the excise man come round. The peat fires and clear running river waters established the unique flavours of genuine Scotch whisky so well known today. (www.maltwhiskytrail.com)

The Glenlivet Smugglers Trail

When I visited Speyside with my friend Anita we stayed first at the historic Craigellachie Hotel that’s pretty much in the epicentre of the region. We were following Scotland’s Golf Whisky Trail, a marriage made in heaven of two of Scotland’s most celebrated exports, in scenically stunning landscape. Speyside is renowned for offering the best of Scotland: its food, whisky, landscapes, fishing, shooting, skiing (but not like in Canada), hiking and golf. Our itinerary took in challenging Scottish Highland and coastal links courses as we followed the River Spey with the smell of whisky never too far away.

The Craigellachie Hotel, built in 1893, is steeped in character with beautiful views of the surrounding areas including the River Spey and the famous Thomas Telford Bridge built in 1814. We were greeted with a shot of whisky before we even saw our rooms. This was a harbinger of what was to come. Their Quaich Bar offered over 600 different whiskies and we spent one night doing our best to sample the selection.

The Glenlivet

We also spent a few nights at Minmore House Hotel, a stone-built country house on the Glenlivet Crown Estate surrounded by 90 square miles of glens and moorlands of the Grampian Highlands. Their restaurant served up very fine Scottish dishes using only fresh local ingredients including vegetables and herbs from their own kitchen garden. Sadly I’ve heard they’ve closed.

Still open in the warmer months (April to September) and a highly recommendable place to visit is Ballindalloch Castle, one of the most renowned castles in Scotland. Located in the heart of Speyside, near to the distilleries of Glenfiddich, Cragganmore, Glenlivet and Glenfarclas, it’s surrounded by majestic hills. The tumbling waters of the Rivers Spey and Avon flow through the grounds. Still a much beloved family home, Ballindalloch is one of the few privately owned castles to have been lived in continuously by its original family, the Macpherson-Grants who have resided there since 1546. They joined us for dinner the night I was there and for breakfast the next morning.

Glenfiddich Stills

The castle is open to visitors during the day and the estate contains attractive cottages that are available to sporting parties, corporate guests and holiday travellers. There’s a golf course on the premises as well and, in good country estate sporting form, opportunities for anglers and hunters. The rivers offer excellent salmon and sea trout fishing and the woods have plenty of partridge, pheasants and roebuck to shoot. I passed on the opportunity to hunt for my dinner.

LCBO whisky sales are projected to top $601 million in 2012-13, more than $21 million higher than in the previous year. It’s not just Scotland that’s making an impact. Canadian whisky is expected to account for a whopping $403 in sales, obviously the vast majority. Irish whiskey is up almost 23 per cent over last year and leads the whisky segment in growth. American whiskey grew 16 per cent over the previous sales period.

Revived and entirely new Canadian whiskies debuted this fall. Some are clearly geared to the younger market namely the spiced, sweetened versions but others with a twist – or dollop of maple syrup – are more serious.

Featured Whisky Reviews

Glenfiddich 15 Year Old, $60.25 (LTO to November 11) - Deep amber coloured it has distinctive wood flavours from aging in three kinds of oak – former bourbon and sherry casks and new American. The aged whiskies are then blended into a unique solera vat handcrafted from Oregon pine which is always kept at least half full so whiskies from decades of previous blendings form part of the mix. The result is a full flavoured, rich, complex and mellow dram. Balanced with notes of honey and raisons, it’s intense and gripping on the palate with a long smooth finish.

Glenfiddich Gran Reserva 21 Years Old Highland Single Malt, $236.95 - Finished for up to four months in bourbon barrels that once contained rum, this single malt has impact and power. Rum toffee and ripe banana aromas whiff from the glass, followed by a taste that’s deep, big and full with flavours of fig, vanilla toffee, brown spices, ginger and molasses. The finish is long and spicy.

Glen Parker Speyside Single Malt, $37.35 - This value priced Speyside from Angus Dundee Distillers sadly has been delisted. Stock up while you can. Smooth, rounded and gentle with a hint of heather, smoke and oak, it has malty, fruity, vanilla flavours. This is an easy to enjoy dram for its price and its delivery. It’s a shame to see it go from our markets.

Collingwood Canadian Whisky, $29.95 - Triple distilled and aged in white oak barrels before resting with toasted Maplewood to complete its maturation, this handcrafted Canadian whisky is amber coloured with spiced rye and bourbon flavours. Ultra smooth with peachy fruit tastes and a spiced mellow bourbon overlay, its gentle enough to be enjoyed straight up but can enhance a cocktail too.

Gibson’s Finest 100th Grey Cup Limited Edition, $34.95 - Created to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Grey Cup, this is Canadian whisky with an overlay of maple syrup just noticeable on the high notes. Lively and firm on the mid-palate it has a sugar maple finish with a bit of a bite. Not sure it will become a Canuck classic but hey vive la difference.

Check out all my reviews on WineAlign – Margaret’s Whisky Picks.

Tasting with The Trews

And think about going to Barrie on November 8^th. The Trews are giving a special benefit concert with proceeds going to Dixon Hall, a United Way member agency for its music school program. More info inside the LCBO’s Whisky Rocks online magazine. www.whiskeyrocks.com

November 21 – 23^rd, Canada’s oldest and most prestigious whiskey festival is taking place. The NB Spirits Festival in Fredericton hosted by Frank Scott of the Lunar Rogue pub (named a Great Whiskey Bar of the World by Whiskey Magazine) is the spirit event in Canada to attend according to many whisky lovers and makers that I know.

Cheers!

Margaret Swaine

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Filed under: News, Spirits, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, Scotland, Whisky

Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks:Value-priced bottles that will warm you up

These easy-drinking value-priced wines warm the body and the soul as we head into colder weather. Find them WineAlign.com/MargaretsPicks.

Bottega Rosé Vino dei Poeti
LCBO No. 277202; $12.25

This special-edition (pink ribbon on the bottle) pale rose-coloured sparkler is a blend of pinot nero and raboso grapes from Veneto and Lombardia. A portion of profits is donated to BHI, the Breast Health Institute internationally and in Canada this month to Princess Margaret Breast Cancer Foundation (October is Breast Cancer Awareness month).  Off dry with a festive, easy to drink character, it has a floral bouquet and ripe raspberry/strawberry taste.

Argento Bonarda 2011
LCBO No. 292458; $9.95

Argento’s value-priced wines are well constructed by head winemaker Silvia Corti to deliver above expectations with fruit purity and flavour concentration. This deep purple Mendoza red from 100% bonarda grapes is full bodied and rich on the palate with a rounded, soft finish. Full of ripe raspberry flavours with an overlay of oak, it goes well with a spicy stew.

Volcanes Summit Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011
LCBO No. 292607; $9.95

In Chile’s Rapel Valley, the Bodegas Volcanes wine-making team searches out grapes influenced by volcanic soil. This blend of largely cabernet sauvignon with 35% merlot is violet-tinged garnet in hue. Medium bodied, it has ripe berry on the nose and palate with some oak overtones. Cedar, spices and herbaceous notes make an appearance as well, especially in the firm dry finish. Have with pepperoni pizza or pasta puttanesca style.

Filed under: Appetizer, Wine, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, Wine Picks

Margaret Swaine’s Wine Pick: Aussie artisan wines

I highly recommend these acclaimed Aussie artisan wines from last Saturday’s Vintages release. Full of personality and taste find them via WineAlign.com/MargaretsPicks.

Paxton AAA Shiraz Grenache 2010, $19.95

This McLaren Vale red from South Australia gives you a warm feeling in body and soul. Biodynamically farmed and part of an organization that donates 1% of sales to environmental causes, the wine has nice warmth to its smooth ripe berry flavours. Supple and full on the palate with notes of smoke, mocha and oak, it’s value priced and perfect for fall days.

Spinifex Papillon 2010, $29.95

Barossa Valley’s Spinifex is known for achieving Old World elegance in their New World wines. Winemaker Peter Schell has worked many vintages in France and his French born wife comes from a long line of vignerons. This blend of grenache, cinsault, carignan and shiraz has cool climate, Rhone-like flavours full of bright red berry, gamey and savoury garrigue notes. Medium bodied with supple tannins, it’s balanced and food friendly.

Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, $39.95

Mornington Peninsula in Victoria is blessed with the cooling effect of the Indian Ocean and ideal soils for cool climate viticulture. This Yabby Lake chardonnay from there may be costly but it’s worth every penny. Intense, poised with Meursault-like smoky, toasty flavours, it has length and focus. Citrus and mineral notes add freshness and precision. Crack open with fine company.

Filed under: Wine, Australia, Margaret Swaine, Vintages

Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks: Customer favourites from Vintages

These well-priced customer favourites from Vintages have solid appeal. View these and all of Margaret’s Wine Picks at WineAlign.com/MargaretsPicks.

Prà Soave Classico 2011, $19.95

With good reason this soave is back in Vintages. From old vine, low-yielding garganega grapes, it sets the benchmark for the varietal. Gently floral and fruity on the bouquet, it’s lively on the palate with flavours of fresh soft tree fruits with hints of minerals and almonds in the lingering finish. Medium bodied with a good grip, it’s versatile enough to suit many dishes.

Gladiator Primitivo di Manduria 2010, $16.95

This is the seventh consecutive Vintages release for this Puglia primitivo (a.k.a. zinfandel), and it’s as forward as ever, with sweet, jammy flavours. Velvety smooth, medium-full bodied with a rich texture and a spiced finish, it’s a good wine for cool fall nights. Match with game or meats braised in red wine.

Grant Burge Shiraz 2010, $17.95

Now is the time to buy this Barossa red — price is a dollar off until Nov. 11. Dark purple-edged garnet with a brambleberry pie and vanilla bouquet, it’s medium-full bodied with juicy, sweet berry flavours. Savoury spice notes and a fine acidity liven up the palate. Pair with beef tagine with dried fruits or bobotie, South Africa’s curried meat dish.

Filed under: Appetizer, News, Wine, Margaret Swaine, Vintages

Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks: Turkey Wines

These enjoyable wines are a good match for your Thanksgiving turkey. Find these well priced pinots that deliver via WineAlign.com/MargaretsPicks.

Rudolf Rabl Löss Grüner Veltliner 2011
$13.95 (88 Points)

From Austria’s Kamptal region, this grüner is gentle but fresh. Soft and rounded on the palate with floral and light pear notes, it has a pleasant acidity and touch of white pepper to perk it up. Nicely balanced with a smooth finish, it’s a match for roasted turkey with simple bread and onion stuffing, served with mashed potatoes.

Domaine de Vaugondy Dry Vouvray 2010
$14.95 (89 Points)

Entirely devoted to chenin blanc, the vines on this Loire domaine average 20 to 55 years old giving a lovely concentration to the wine. Great acidity yields a tangy, zesty white with flavours of quince, apple and pear. Perfect for turkey with a fruit-based stuffing, roasted root veggies and cranberry sauce.

Triacca Spadino Maremma 2010
$15.95 (88 Points)

From the coastal area of Tuscany, this medium-bodied red has a pretty, cedar-and-spice bouquet and an elegant, dry taste. Easy and smooth at first, it still has a good tannic grip. Sour cherry and plum flavours combine with savoury herbs on the palate and finish. Pair with turkey stuffed with sausages and spices served with savoury gravy.

Filed under: News, Wine, LCBO, Margaret Swaine, Thanksgiving