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David’s Take on Private Wine Retailing in Ontario: Getting Beyond the Vested Interests

It could have turned into a bun fight.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

On Thursday, May 9 the vested interests in Ontario’s beverage alcohol industry gathered at an Economic Club of Canada luncheon at Toronto’s Delta Chelsea Hotel to hear why the province should move to a mixed public/private retail model of selling wine, beer and spirits.

Speaker Ian Baillie, executive director of ABLE, an association and lobbyist for private beverage alcohol retailers in British Columbia, delivered a vision based on the B.C. model, where about two-thirds of the 1,400 beverage alcohol retail outlets are now in private hands.

He was sponsored by the Wine Council of Ontario, an association of smaller Ontario wineries that is lobbying for private wine stores through a website called www.mywineshop.ca. The wineries are needing new retail outlets for their growing number of products, which the one-stop LCBO is not able to handle effectively, despite recently announced initiatives that are too little, too late.

There were many Ontario winemakers in the audience, but virtually all other vested interests were in the room as well – importers, beer and spirits reps, hoteliers and restaurateurs, MPPs and the LCBO itself. No party leaders.

I will get to some of Ian Baillie’s key points in a moment, but first an observation based on audience reaction during a question and answer session. If the Q&A had not been shut down by the Economic Club’s moderator it could have turned into something nasty.

There is a cauldron of pent-up passion around this issue – so many different viewpoints, truths, and ways to interpret facts and figures. It is very complex. And the feelings have been entrenched for years, decades – virtually since the LCBO was established at the end of Prohibition. I just don’t see how these parties will ever come to a consensus. If it is left to the vested interests it won’t get done.

Supermarket wine section; Wellington, New Zealand

Ontario one day? Supermarket wine section,
Wellington, New Zealand

The solution needs to come from the will of consumers. The Wine Council says 70% of Ontario favour some level of privatization. That needs to be expressed through an election of a party that presents a clear and balanced, consumer-based vision and has the courage to act. The Conservatives seem closest now, but at one point under Premier David Peterson it was the Liberals.

The benefits of privatization were made plainly evident to the current Liberal government in a 2005 beverage alcohol review they themselves commissioned, then shelved. They turtled in the face of protest by the vested interests – the union, the LCBO bureaucracy, and the largest financial stakeholders who prosper handsomely under the LCBO monopoly.

There are clarion benefits to privatization – primarily vastly increased selection and improved service guided by the forces of open competition. There would be growth in production, distribution, retailing revenue, job and government revenues. It is also clear that the government can increase revenues without running the stores, and they can regulate the industry as they please to serve social responsibility concerns.

Baillie’s Key Points

Public/Private Retailing? Mr. Baillie was promoting B.C.’s politically expedient, mixed public/private retailing model – not the Alberta model wherein all retail is in private hands, with government’s role moved to wholesaling, distribution and regulation. The B.C. compromise is most likely what will happen in Ontario.

I prefer Alberta’s model. I don’t believe government should be in competition with the private sector, or that government can do it as well as private enterprise.

Either way, I strongly believe that it is government’s responsibility to properly regulate and license beverage alcohol; to test product safety and to educate the public about its hazards, especially if government is paying the medical costs of alcohol abuse. But let’s not confuse this responsibility with the need for government to be a retailer.

Government Revenue – Ian Baillie made the startling assertion – oft Tweeted in recent days – that if Ontario, with roughly three times the population of B.C., were to adopt the B.C. model, it would deliver 1.1 billion dollars more per year to provincial coffers than it is doing now – 2.7 billion as opposed to 1.6 billion.

The formula and figures were vehemently debated on the floor, but two things were clear. First, the province will not lose revenue by introducing privatization (B.C. has not, in fact its revenues are growing annually under the public/private model). Second government still has the ability to raise taxes as it sees fits to ensure that revenues would not be lost. I for one would not be totally against this as the price of privatization.

Social Responsibility - Mr. Baillie went to great lengths to promote the idea that social responsibility is also a business responsibility of private retailers. He emphasised that all the provincial rules apply in terms of not serving those under 19, and that retailers are trained to enforce them.

He also described a B.C. regulation that new private stores must be built a minimum of 1km from the nearest store, to prevent certain neighbourhoods having too many stores or “liquor stores on every corner”.

Corner Stores – It is very interesting that Ontario’s historical alternative vision to the LCBO is “corner store wine and beer sales”, perhaps a model assumed due to the nearness of Quebec’s ‘dépanneurs’.  Baillie dismissed allowing alcohol sales by convenience stores as socially irresponsible because it would be almost impossible and very costly to monitor 10,000 stores in the province.

Corner stores as the only alternative for Ontario would, in my opinion, be the worst possible option for a different reason. I want to see wine sold in responsibly run convenience stores, in grocery stores and supermarkets, and in fine wine shops – and I want to see the entire range of price and quality that would ensue, with retailers free to serve their constituents as they see fit, and consumers free to shop how and where and for what they want.

How Many Stores? -  Baillie mentioned that B.C. has recently capped the opening of new stores beyond the 1,400 store level. The government has deemed that level adequate for B.C.’s population of 4.4 million people, or one store for every 3,100 people. By contrast, Ontario currently has roughly 1,200 LCBO, Beer Stores and winery stores serving 13.3 million people, one store for 11,000 people. So it is a no brainer that the LCBO is under-serving us, and that privatization in Ontario would see a boom in store creation and employment.

So how do we get government to brave this debate and make the right choice – a choice that people the world over have already made, or never even felt it necessary to make in the first place? Closer to home, if this idea is right works in Vancouver, Victoria, Vernon, Edmonton, Calgary, Lethbridge, Peace River, Winnipeg, Brandon and Halifax – why on earth will it not work in Toronto, Ottawa, Windsor and Thunder Bay? Even Pennsylvania, a bastion of Dutch protestant conservatism in the U.S. made the move most recently.

Successful precedent alone should be all the political fodder our legislators require.

But to nudge them along consumers need to organize and get vocal, as do media editorialists who claim to represent “the people”. Major papers have actually begun writing about this more frequently. And it could be fanned by an LCBO employees strike that could come on May 17. But beyond that consumers need to organize themselves and petition their MPPs.

And if possible Ontario’s cooler-headed vested interests could try to form an organization, like B.C.’s ABLE, to carry a unified voice to Queens Park. ABLE represents private wine store owners, hotels, restaurants and pubs – any business in the business of selling beverage alcohol. Based on what I heard in reaction to Baillie’s speech I am not sure this is possible in Ontario, but there must be some reasonable, willing and articulate people willing to step forward under common cause from all these camps.

Good luck to us all.

David Lawrason
VP of Wine

A downloadable copy of his Mr. Baillie’s speech is available here.


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Lawrason’s Take on Vintages May 11 Release

Lake Erie’s Dilemma, 90Pt $25 Syrahs, Pretty Pinks & Six Other Wines of Interest.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

The Australian feature in VINTAGES May 11 release is not all that thematically strong yet there are a couple of 90 point shiraz based reds. Likewise, the quirky selection of rosés delivers a fine pair of $13 pinkies. And I have dug deeper into the release to find several other Wines of Interest. But first a comment on the mini-feature on Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore, a region that some marketing whiz has re-branded as Essex Pelee Island Coast, or EPIC for short. EPIC is not a new appellation (yet), nor are the wines epic yet – despite the breathless prose in VINTAGES catalogue.

Lake Erie’s Forgotten Wineries

Calling the wines of LENS (Lake Erie North Shore) forgotten is bound to raise the hackles of the folks from Harrow, Kingsville, Pelee and other points in southwest Ontario. They will suggest it reflects a GTA-Niagara indifference to the wines down Windsor way. And they are right.  But there are two sides to every story. For one thing the wines are too seldom put on the radar in the huge market around Lake Ontario, which is why Vintages is pushing hard in this week’s catalogue. The real reason however is that they are not competing well enough in the bottle. Too few of the wines are driven by terroir/quality aspirations. There are few premium priced wines, or single vineyard wines – in other words too few buzz-worthy wines. The two economic drivers of the region – Colio and Pelee Island – rank among the top five volume-wise wineries in Ontario. They have attempted premium wines, and their prices do not over-reach. But neither does their quality.

Muscedere Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011I am particularly disappointed of late by Pelee Island, a winery possessing the largest and perhaps most unique estate vineyard in the province. In recent times they ceased using their Pelee Island VQA designation on their labels. And so the Pelee Island designation was quietly dropped altogether by VQA Ontario and folded into Lake Erie North Shore. This is the only instance I can recall of an appellation disappearing from the books – surely a backward step (and a good reason never to allow one producer to own an entire appellation). It has undoubtedly led to the creation of the new EPIC branding that some will be angling to officially replace Lake Erie North Shore (which admittedly is not a great name either).

I visited LENS in 2010 and I am due to return. I can see the potential for the reds due to the moderate climate that favours later ripening “Bordeaux” red varieties like cabernet franc and merlot. The whites I find a bit flabby and hot, with some exceptions. The soils are weighted to sand and clay, but as with all areas in the Great Lakes basin there is limestone subsoil from an era when the Great Lakes comprised one great inland sea. In some places the limestone is not far from the surface.

And there are signs of winemaking progress. The Muscedere family (pronounced Moo-shed-ray) is producing some fine reds from their small plot – including syrah and pinot. Muscedere 2011 Cabernet Franc ($18.20) is a bit lighter than some of their other offerings but pleasantly vibrant, energetic and almost racy.  Viewpointe and Sprucewood Shores have produced some good individual efforts, and I tasted some potentially good wines from Smith and Wilson farther east toward Port Stanley.  Newer Cooper’s Hawk and Colchester Ridge CREW are promising too, but the 2008 reds in this release are maturing and a bit awkward.

90 Point $25 Syrahs

The $25 price point is important for fans of syrah and shiraz. For some reason this grape – with rare exceptions in the Rhône and Australia – has always been held to a lower pricing standard than cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir. I think it is a lingering historical prejudice, whereby the commercial and auction house establishment of Paris and London once considered the syrah and grenache based wines of the south of France inferior by nature. And perhaps they were. But that no longer holds up in today’s global wine universe. The winemaking quality standard has risen dramatically, which means that the value quotient has risen too – a notion that struck me as I tasted through this release and found at least three solid 90 pointers at $25.

Spice Route Shiraz 2009Château Puech Haut Prestige Saint Drézéry 2010Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz Viognier 2011Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz/Viognier 2011 is a great buy at $24.95. It is an organically grown wine that bridges the Old and New Worlds, the result of a project by Michel Chapoutier of the Rhône and American Anthony Terlato who runs a large, international fine wine distribution company as well as Terlato Family Vineyards in California. It has classic Rhône syrah character with some Aussie heft. As Vintages Wine of the Month it should be around in sufficient quantities to be easily available. Grab a handful for the cellar.

Château Puech-Haut 2010 Prestige Saint-Drézéry from the Languedoc region in the south of France is another excellent buy at $26.95. This is actually weighted to grenache in the blend but it is a modern classic of the genre, with poise and power. It’s from a large 100 ha property not far from Montpelier that has gone to expense of hiring top consultant Michel Rolland; who if nothing else does tend to fashion wines with some elegance.

Spice Route 2009 Shiraz from the Swartland region of South Africa is another bomb at $24.95. It’s not just big; it’s complex, layered, profound and packed with personality. The Swartland region toward the western Atlantic coast has emerged as a new star for shiraz and Rhône-styled reds grown on dry farmed, red granitic soils. This is an In Store Discovery, so only available in larger Vintages store.

Pretty $13 Pinks

Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2012Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto Rosé 2012Rosé season is now fully upon us, and each release Vintages puts out another dozen or so. They have become quite international in their reach, which is interesting in one sense but it nets some odd ducks too. Not every region or producer really cares about rosé, nor is it a style that expresses regionality all that easily, especially at $15 price point Vintages seems to demand. I would rather see Vintages focused on great quality examples in the $20 range.

Still, there are some finds. Mulderbosch 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($12.95) is unusual for its piquant aromas of red currant and green herbs, directly attributable to the cabernet. It is brisk and almost zesty – not the soft and cuddly type – and for that reason I suspect it will perform very well with cold al fresco meals on the deck or dock.

Zenato 2012 Bardolino Chiaretto Rosé ($12.95) is the meek, mild and very pure sunset sipper.  It is so gentle in fact, and pale, that you might find yourself feeling a bit let down at first. After a couple of glasses you will have a new friend.

Other Wines of Interest

Vinos Sin Ley Puerta Bonita Garnacha 2009Balbas Reserva 2001Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2011Blue Mountain 2011 Chardonnay ($23.95) from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is a terrific buy in serious, cool climate chardonnay. When Ian and Jane Mavety first planted their stunning, much photographed vineyard overlooking Vaseux Lake in 1971, they were years ahead of the curve. They didn’t open a winery until 1991, and when they did the restaurant-focused wines remained largely inaccessible to the general public. With Matt and Christie Mavety of the next generation now taking a more active role, the wines are finding a broader audience, and recent quality and value quotients are very high – a result of sustainable, careful grape growing that began over 40 years ago.

Balbas 2001 Reserva from Spain’s Ribera del Duero is amazingly silky and refined, but it raises a questioning eyebrow. How is it that the colour is still so youthful and the fruit so fresh when this wine is 12 years old? There is some mature leathery character amid all the fruit, and it sure is texturally smooth, so there is some age here. But it still shows youthful aplomb and it will drink well for at least another five years – all rather remarkable for a wine costing $20.95.

Still in Spain, Vinos Sin Ley 2009 Puerta Bonita Garnacha is from a region northwest of Madrid. It purports to come from 120 year old vines, which is really quite remarkable. The resulting low yields have imparted excellent flavour focus and concentration, and there is a sense of refinement and poise that had me mentally comparing this to top Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Vinos Sin Ley (Wines without Law) is a collective of young winemakers who work through Spain, assembling twice a year to take on adventurous, value focused projects, often outside the realm of established DOs.  They succeed admirably here, at $18.95.

Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2010Manzone Gramolere Barolo 2007Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2009Guenoc 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.95) is at first glance nothing remarkable, the kind of wine easily overlooked on the tasting bench or the crowded wine aisle. Another California cabernet, and because it’s not from Napa it’s not an attention grabber. I think I was drawn to it precisely because it is not refined and sculpted; because it’s loaded with fruit and energy, and doesn’t rely on the confection of so many California cabs at this modest price. The Guenoc Valley is a massive spread of vineyards tucked in the hills of Lake County north of Napa.

Manzone 2007 Le Gramolere Barolo ($51.95) is a splendidly refined and modern example of carefully and naturally rendered, almost tender nebbiolo from a steep, low-yielding single vineyard in Monforte d’Alba. Manzone, founded in 1925, is now a father and son enterprise focused only on premium quality. With only 4000 cases per year spread across a range of four Barolos plus barbera and dolcetto, individual bottlings are rather scarce. I consider this a very fair price for the impeccable quality it displays.

Badia A Coltibuono 2009 Chianti Classico ($23.95) has very much the same tender yet energetic and natural feel, perhaps because this too is organically grown. This is a very old but very modern property owned and managed by the Stucchi Prinetti family. It makes a range of wines and olive oils and runs a restaurant, small inn and cooking classes. What I admire is the honest Chianti-ness of the wines – it’s exactly what I hope for from Chianti, and I would be willing to pay even more to get it.

That’s it for this edition. Don’t forget to check out our latest episode of “So, You Think You Know Wine?” and watch next week for an article by Anthony Gismondi, as well as Steve Thurlow’s monthly report on the LCBO Top 50 Values.

But before signing off, I want to welcome Sarah Goddard who joins Bryan and Carol Ann as our third full time staff member at WineAlign. With a deep resume as a sommelier (and a former star student at CAPS) she will be managing our new office in Etobicoke that will become tasting central for the WineAlign’s professional critics and the WineAlign Cru of bloggers. The address is at 4195 Dundas Street West, Suite 222, Toronto, Ontario. M8X 1Y4.

Cheers,

David Lawrason
VP of Wine

We invite our Premium Subscription members to use these links to find all of David Lawrason’s reviews. Paid membership to WineAlign has its privileges – this is one of them. Enjoy!

From the May 11, 2013 Vintages release:

David’s Featured Wines
All Reviews


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Stags' Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2008


German Wine Fair - May 28


Terroir - a County Celebration

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WineAlign presents County In The City

Bringing Prince Edward County to You!

On April 25th you don’t need to travel to Prince Edward County to try the region’s most spectacular wines – because ‘The County’ is coming to YOU!

County in the CityCounty in the City will be held at the Berkeley Church in Toronto. Come out and enjoy samples of more than 50 different wines that will delight the palate and introduce you to some of the most enticing flavours of Prince Edward County. Hors d’oeuvres made from locally sourced and seasonal ingredients will be served throughout the evening. While you mix and mingle, you’ll be entertained by live music with Shawn Brady on guitar along with an accompanying pianist.

Ontario’s hottest wine growing region

“Prince Edward County…20-plus wineries in the small zone, are creating wines that range from very promising to downright spectacular.” Matt Kramer, Wine Spectator

“A whole bunch of lovely wineries – you can just go from one to the next and have a fantastic time.” Konrad Ejbich, CBC Radio, Ontario Today

“Canada’s newest wine region may soon be on everyone’s lips.” Patrick Désy, Cellier Magazine, Quebec

Try & Buy Great Prince Edward County Wines

Back for its second year, County in the City is a great “TRY and BUY” event. Many of these wines are not available in Toronto retail outlets. All wines purchased at this event will be delivered right to your door – with FREE shipping.

And it gets better – all wine samples are included in the ticket price!

County in the City

Here are the details you need to know:

Event Name: County in the City

Date: Thursday, April  25, 2013

Time: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 pm

Venue: The Berkeley Church, 315 Queen Street East, Toronto

Tickets are available now: $39 in advance (online tickets sent as a PDF in a confirmation email), $50 at the door (subject to availability)

Order Tickets Now

Have a look at some of the amazing Prince Edward County wineries who will be pouring at the event:

By Chadsey’s Cairns
Casa Dea
Closson Chase
Devil’s Wishbone
Exultet Estates
Grange of Prince Edward County Vineyard and Estate Winery
Half Moon Bay Winery
Huff Estates Winery
Karlo Estates
Keint-He Winery and Vineyard
Lighthall Vineyard
Norman Hardie
Rosehall Run
Sandbanks Winery
Stanners Vineyard

Follow County in the City on Twitter @winefestival

County in the City - April 25


After attending the County in the City event, you may decide that you have to see the Prince Edward County region with your own eyes. Not to worry, the County has the next event all lined up for you.

Terroir: A County Wine Celebration

Get Dirty in the County - Terrior 2013Terroir at The Crystal Palace is an annual showcase for new County wines presented by Prince Edward County Winegrowers Association. Many County wineries will introduce their new spring releases and serve their own unique wines paired with delicious cheeses and other gourmet food tastings.

Visit the Terroir Tasting Tent; learn from Master Sommelier John Szabo as he leads a discussion on the comparisons between Prince Edward County and other winemaking regions; attend a WineMakers Roundtable Hosted by Ange Aiello, iYellow Wine Club; and more.

Date: Saturday, May 25, 2013

Time: Noon – 6pm

Venue: The Crystal Palace, Main Street Fairgrounds, Picton

Tickets are $35 in advance (including wine samples and three food pairings), $40 at the door (Subject to availability)

For more information visit: Terrior – A County Celebration or Click here to for your Terrior Tickets.

Follow Terrior on Twitter @CountyTerroir


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Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best; by Sara d’Amato and Janet Dorozynski

Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best and Experts Deliberate on Niagara’s Cabs & Merlot

Sara d'Amato

Sara d’Amato

At the time winter should be yielding to spring, Ontario marks its most star-studded annual wine event, Cuvée. This is the time Ontario winemakers showcase the wines in which they take most pride at a black tie gala event held at the Fallsview Casino in Niagara Falls and subsequently at the tasting bars of the participating wineries themselves over the weekend. It is a night when all facets of the industry mingle and eager wine enthusiasts benefit from all of the fanfare and excitement. Janet Dorozynski and I were both present this year, and we are pleased to collaborate and share our experiences with you here.

_MG_0509This year marked the 25th anniversary of Cuvée, and with it came significant changes to the event. In the past, award-winning Cuvée wines were chosen by the winemakers themselves in a blind tasting competition held prior to the gala. This year, the awards were done away with in favor of a ‘Grand Tasting’ format: the participating winemakers were asked to choose their favorite one wine to showcase at the event. The new format was overwhelmingly well received and, I think, made for a more interesting event. The presentation of one wine from each of the wineries allowed for a much more intimate and memorable experience for guests.

Since 1989, Cuvée has brought media, aficionados and winemakers together to experience the best the province has to offer, or at least the pride of the winemakers. It also allows us to meet the stars behind the bottles, dressed to their nines, and gives us perspective into the personalities that make up our Ontario wine culture. This year, 42 Ontario wineries participated in the event and, in addition to the Dairy Farmers of Ontario, 9 chefs each cooked up three creative and wine-friendly dishes to inspire tasters.

_MG_0497Interestingly, the wines chosen by the winemakers seemed extremely varied both stylistically and varietal-wise. The only small theme seemed to be in the realm of chardonnay – the chosen varietal showcased by six producers. Although there is nothing particularly surprising about having this many chardonnays presented, the styles had a distinct commonality in their restraint and purity of fruit. As chardonnay drinkers become more sophisticated, this nervy, stripped down style or, at least, the use of winemaking techniques to support natural flavours as opposed to enhance or manipulate them is both progressive and pervasive among regions world-wide in even the most commercial of offerings. Ontario is no exception, and the majority of chardonnays were both surprising and refreshing.

Sara’s Top Cuvée 2013 Picks:

Megalomaniac Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc 2008
John Howard Cellars of Distinction
$44.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Sue-Ann Staff

This was the first wine I tasted of the evening and I remained most impressed by its ability to endure on my palate throughout the course of the night. When carefully grown and then sensitively treated, cabernet franc has the ability to stun the senses. Cool and wet best describes 2008 and was best suited for the Burgundian varietals of chardonnay and pinot noir. However, with carefully managed hang time, and a dry end to the season made for some exceptionally aromatic and expressive cabernet franc such as this wow-me of an example.

Ravine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Select, Unfiltered 2009
$40 from the winery, Winemaker: Shauna White

Young but certainly not inexperienced and with a talent for winemaking in her genes, Shauna White is keeping Ravine Vineyards’ offerings dynamic and exciting at a generally affordable price point. This chardonnay boasts real elegance and restraint and because it did not go through malo-lactic fermentation it retains its freshness and purity of fruit quite distinctively.

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate, Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2010,
$32.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Marco Piccoli

The Delaine vineyard site has been producing high-quality fruit under its name since 2001. It is planted with several varieties but what I have found is consistently most exciting is their peppery syrah. There is definitive elegance in this cool climate style that expresses itself so uniquely in Niagara. Not to be missed.

Janet’s 90+ Picks from Cuvée 2013:

Château des Charmes Equuleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, 2010
$40.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Paul Bosc

The founder of Chateau des Charmes, Paul Bosc Sr, is a devotee of Arabian horses, with Equuleus being the Latin term for little horse. This tribute wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s fleshy and a tad flashy, and definitely shows the depth and concentration of the warm 2010 vintage in Ontario. Rich dark fruit and notes of cocoa mingle nicely in this well-balanced, well-made wine. Ready to race now or cellar for 8+ years.

_MG_0151Stratus Vineyards Stratus White 2009
$44.00 Vintages, Winemaker: J-L Groux

Niagara’s take on white Bordeaux with a twist. The Stratus White 2009 is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Gewurztraminer. Each of the components are aged in oak, which brings richness and texture and imparts a subtle vanilla cream spiciness to a palate of peach, apricots and tangerine flavours. Medium bodied, with vibrant acidity and a lingering toast and spicy finish. Exotic and charming.

Lailey Vineyard Winery Impromptu 2010
$45.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Derek Barnett

This is Lailey Vineyards flagship red that is only made in exceptional vintages, which 2010 was for reds in Niagara. Predominantly Syrah (75%), with equal parts Malbec and fragrant Petit Verdot, come together in this enticing package. Ripe, with fine supple tannins and balanced acidity, this is a fine and elegant medium-bodied wine. Can be drunk now or kept for 5 to 7 years.

Thomas Bachelder Wismer Chardonnay 2010
$44.95 Vintages, Winemaker: Thomas Bachelder

A brilliant wine from one of Niagara’s star winemakers, with fruit sourced from one of Niagara’s viticultural sweet spots, the Wismer vineyard. Complex and creamy, with stone fruit flavours, the acidity is crisp but balanced, with a generous, textured mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. A true masterpiece.

The Experts Tasting: Getting a handle on Bordeaux Reds

Janet Dorozynski

Janet Dorozynski

The Expert’s Tasting at Brock is by invitation only and a highly anticipated event for the Ontario trade, media and wineries. The event is organized and hosted by the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University and focuses on a different theme or grape variety each year, in order to dig more deeply into the state of vinous affairs of the region.

This year’s focus was “Bordeaux reds”, and while never a huge proponent of Ontario Bordeaux reds, save for Cabernet Franc, I have to say that I was presently surprised by what we tasted. While Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are more difficult to get consistently ripe and right in Ontario, Cabernet Franc is more suited to cooler climates and has been doing better throughout the years.

The tasting was divided into five flights, with the first four focused on a varietal or stylistic theme related to Bordeaux red varieties.  The flights were presented by winemakers and principals, many of which were CCOVI graduates, with themes centered on popular songs. Most of the wines were current vintages or releases from Ontario, with a few older vintages along with ringers from Napa and Bordeaux thrown in to keep us on our toes.

The Merlot flight was entitled R.E.S.P.E.C.T, since it usually doesn’t get much, in which we tasted some good examples from Malivoire Wine Co. (Stouck Vineyard 2010 Merlot) along with the Trius Clark Farm Merlot 2010. 

_MG_0403During the Mothers of Innovation flight for Cabernet Franc, we learned about the grapes regal lineage and how it, along with Sauvignon Blanc, was parent of the noble Cabernet Sauvignon. This was my preferred flight of the tasting with the highlights being the Stratus 2008 Cabernet Franc, which was harvested on December 8, 2008, alongside the Peller Estates 2010 Cabernet Franc from the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, which was rich and intense with extraordinarily great structure. 

In the We Are Family flight for Bordeaux blends, we once again tasted a Stouck Vineyard wine from Malivoire, this time the 2010 Cabernet Merlot, which seems to illustrate that there is something special about both this grower and site in the Beamsville Bench.  We also tasted the Hidden Bench Terroir Cache from 2010 and 2007, along with the Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot from 2002 and 2007, all of which showed that Ontario Bordeaux blends from good vintages can and do age well.   

In Flight Four, with a nod to the Who’s Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy, we tasted a range of big and plush textured reds from the Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), along with a few blends and the Foreign Affair 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit from low yields (2 tonnes per acre) and containing 25% appassimento grapes, grapes that are dried prior to fermentation and a style of wine which we are seeing more often in Ontario. 

_MG_0625The last flight – “If You Don’t Know me by Now” – was a  “Wine Options” flight, where each table has to guess the variety, vintage, region, producer for each of the five wines poured. Wine Options is an antipodean specialty, first started by Australian Len Evans after a Chateau Thabilk tasting in Sydney, and is always an exciting and humbling finale to the Expert’s Tasting.

To some extent, many of the wines tasted reconfirmed what I’d already thought about Bordeaux reds – they can be very good but are vintage and site specific in Ontario. I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by a number of the blends and Cabernet Sauvignon, though overall, the highlight for me was the Cabernet Franc flight, which seems to reinforce the place for this earlier ripening grape in the region and the reason why many view it as a core variety for both Ontario and Canada. 

Janet’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

Peller Estates “Signature Series” 2010 Cabernet Franc
$40.20 from the winery

A Cabernet Franc with good depth and structure. Aromatic, with red berry and cedar notes, with a touch of grilled red peppers on the nose. Medium to full bodied, with balanced acidity and present and slightly grippy tannins. Long finish. Would be a good match for grilled lamb.

Malivoire Wine Co. 2010 Cabernet Merlot ‘Stouck’
$29.95, Vintages

A limited edition Cabernet Merlot release from Malivoire, with fruit from Beamsville Bench wine grower Dan Stouck. Very deeply coloured, with an intense nose of dark fruit and berries, spice and coffee, which is complemented by richness and depth on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with good grip and a long intoxicating finish.

Sara’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

“The Temptress” Foreign Affair Winery 2010
$44.95 from the winery

The impressive power delivered by the appassimento style (or drying of the grapes in order to increase concentration) which has become ever popular in Ontario, can yield impressively rich results that make it difficult to determine the origin of the wine, especially during warmer vintages. The results can easily vary from hot and sweet to dry and concentrated. Although not always a fan of this bombshell of a style, this particular version made from a large proportion of merlot was undeniably impressive. When results such as these can be achieved, it is extremely pleasurable to concentrate them.

Hidden Bench Meritage “Terroir Cache” 2007
$45.00 from the winery

Substantial but showing restraint, this plump, lush and sensuous wine is just beginning to show signs of maturity. A smoky, dried leaf flavour helps quell the power of the fruit and adds character and refinement to the blend. Well-crafted and quite indicative of the aromatic potential and length that can be produced by a Bordelaise blend in Niagara.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2002
$50.00 from the winery

This was a bit of a contentious wine in the tasting; some believing it lacked substance and others took issue with its notable maturity. However, I couldn’t’ help but appreciate its charm and distinctive flavours that still remained. Notes of pepper, fruit spice, dill and graphite along with delicate floral notes that still shone through despite its evolved state are surely a testament to the graceful longevity of which is there good potential in Niagara.

_MG_0446A panel of experts from winemakers, to educators, to sommeliers were involved in selecting the wines for these flights, which were designed to help us understand the roles that individual Bordelaise varietals play in our unique climate. Indeed, they were very helpful in illustrating several key points, including the fact that earlier ripening varietals such as cabernet franc and merlot have particularly important roles in our climate, as they provide a certain insurance that they will ripen in most years. In a cooler year, cabernet sauvignon risks being rained out, or can remain hanging on the vine into the winter before fully ripening. Cabernet franc’s aromatic contribution to the blend is distinctly apparently in our Ontario style, which is complemented by merlot’s lushness and even structure as was demonstrated in the first flight.

These flights also provided good illustrations of the ageabillity of our Bordeaux blends, as several examples that Janet mentioned previously, showed remarkably well, especially those dating back to the warmer vintage of 2002. Harmonious, balanced, and refined, there were great similarities here to French Bordeaux of a similar age, which I have tasted as of late.

There were at least as many conclusions as wines served that could be drawn from this enlightening and academic tasting regarding the potential for these challenging wines in Ontario. One thing was made resoundingly clear, however, and that was that these wines are worth are effort and our closer examination.

For more reviews of wines presented at Cuvee 2013, follow this link: Cuvee 2013 Wines.

Photos courtesy of: Robert Nowell, www.robertnowellphoto.com

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WineAlign Announces Two New Wine Awards in Canada

WineAlign Launches Two New Wine Competitions in Canada

TORONTO/VANCOUVER – February 25, 2013 – WineAlign, Canada’s largest and most popular online wine site, today announced the launch of two new wine competitions. To recognize the best in Canadian wine, WineAlign will host the National Wine Awards of Canada “The Nationals” and invite Canadian wine producers to compete annually to determine who is making the best wine in the country. To complement the domestic awards, the World Wine Awards of Canada “The Worlds” competition will be open to wines sold in Canada, with emphasis placed on wines offering outstanding value.

The “Nationals” will be held from June 16 – 22, 2013 in Niagara, Ontario and will open for entries on April 1, 2013. The “Worlds” will be judged from September 8 – 14, 2013 in Toronto, Ontario and will open for entries on July 1, 2013. Results of the “Nationals” and the “Worlds” will be released on WineAlign.com, which had close to one million unique visitors in 2012. With upcoming expansions to British Columbia and Quebec, the WineAlign audience is expected to grow significantly in the months ahead.

“We’re thrilled to be moving forward with the competitions,” says WineAlign founder Bryan McCaw. “Our goal is to make this the definitive Canadian perspective on wine, to both domestic and international audiences. We plan to shape both competitions into a modern, highly-responsive look at wine in Canada.”

Wines will be tasted blind by a team of top wine critics from across the country, including head judge Anthony Gismondi (WineAlign, Vancouver Sun), David Lawrason (WineAlign, Toronto Life), John Szabo Master Sommelier (WineAlign), Margaret Swaine (WineAlign, National Post), Rod Phillips (WineAlign, Ottawa Citizen), Bill Zacharkiw (Montreal Gazette), Steve Thurlow (WineAlign), Sara d’Amato (WineAlign), Janet Dorozynski (WineAlign), Nadia Fournier (Le Guide du Vin Montreal), Rémy Charest (wine journalist in Quebec City), Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson (Winnipeg Free Press), Craig Pinhey (New Brunswick Telegraph Journal, The Coast), DJ Kearney (wine educator in Vancouver), Treve Ring (wine journalist in Victoria), Rhys Pender (Master of Wine, B.C.) and Gurvinder Bhatia (Edmonton Journal).

For more information on the awards or entries please contact awards@WineAlign.com.

About WineAlign

WineAlign is a free community-based service for reviewing, sharing and discovering wine. It was launched in December 2008 in collaboration with several top wine critics to create a resource for consumers to find the best wines at the LCBO. WineAlign, which is growing rapidly with close to 1M unique annual visitors, answers the question: What wine do I buy? It combines reviews from top-critics and community members to create an objective resource to help users find great wine. For wine lovers outside of Ontario, Canada, WineAlign provides the most comprehensive wine resource, including reviews of the latest wines and vintages from some of the country’s top sommeliers and wine critics. You can also follow us on Facebook at www.Facebook/WineAlign or on Twitter @WineAlign.

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25th Anniversary Cuvée Weekend Wine Experience • Exclusive WineAlign VIP access

Exclusive WineAlign VIP Access to Cuvée’s 25th Anniversary Party

Celebrate Ontario’s finest at the Cuvée Grand Tasting Gala and Après Cuvée

Cuvée Weekend Wine ExperienceOntario’s hottest wine event kicks off on Friday evening, March 1st, with the Grand Tasting Gala at the Niagara’s Fallsview Casino Resort. New features have been added in 2013, making the gala event more buzz-worthy than ever before. Over 40 winemakers will play favourites and each will pour a wine for which they feel most proud of.

As always, guests have the opportunity to mingle with the winemakers as they sample locally inspired cuisine prepared at live cooking stations by 10 of Niagara’s top chefs. Après Cuvée is returning in 2013, so as the Grand Tasting winds down, the party keeps going with live music, dancing, an Icewine and Bubbles Bar and Craft Beer.

Cuvée en Route

Each Cuvée ticket is also your passport to Cuvée en Route, which allows guests to tour and taste along Niagara’s Wine Route from Friday through Sunday. En Route participants will enjoy exclusive tastings, special meals and menu items at participating wineries and restaurants. Cuvée en Route guests have the exclusive opportunity to shop for featured Cuvée wines direct from the wineries.

Pre-Gala VIP Tasting for WineAlign members

Cuvée Weekend Wine ExperienceAs part of an exclusive offer, WineAlign members are invited to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Cuvée in style with VIP Access.

In addition to the Grand Tasting Gala, Après Cuvée and Cuvée en Route, WineAlign Members are invited to come early (5:30pm) to attend the pre-event VIP Gala tasting – which until now has only been open to wine writers and Ontario wine industry leaders.

To take advantage of this exclusive WineAlign VIP offer, you can order your tickets on-line, by phone at (905) 684-8688, or download and fax this this order form.  If ordering by phone, don’t forget to mention that you are a WineAlign VIP!

Ticket Info:

WineAlign VIP Access Ticket • March 1 to 3 • $200 per person
Includes access to the VIP Pre-Gala Tasting, the Grand Tasting Gala, Aprés Cuvée and Cuvée en Route

Schedule for Friday March 1, 2013:

WineAlign VIP Access Tasting – 5:30pm to 7:30pm
Grand Tasting – 7:30 pm to 10 pm (black-tie optional)
Après Cuvée – 9:30 pm to Midnight

Schedule for the week-end, March 1 – 3, 2013:

Cuvée en Route: Visit the wineries at your leisure, Friday through Sunday

For more information on Cuvée 2013, including a list of participating wineries and chefs, our sponsors and special rates on accommodations, visit Cuvée 2013.

Making Our Community Stronger

A tax receipt will be issued for a portion of the ticket price. Proceeds will go to the Niagara Community Foundation, which builds and manages income earning endowment funds to support charitable activities. 


Cuvée 2013 - WineAlign VIP Access

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The Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Wine Competition

Gold Medal winnerThe Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Wine Competition

John Szabo, MS, Head Judge of the Wine Competition, Sadie Darby, Coordinator of the Wine Competition, and The Royal Agricultural Winter Fair are pleased to present the award winning wines and thank our esteemed panel of judges of the 2012 Royal Wine Competition.

Tony Aspler, Post City Magazines, 680 News, Tidings, On The Go magazine and www.tonyaspler.com

Linda Bramble, wine writer, broadcaster and educator – Brock Faculty of Business and CCOVI

Astrid Brummer, Ontario wine buyer for LCBO and Vintages

Sara d’Amato, Vines Magazine, Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada, Winner of North American Blind Tasting Challenge and Principal Critic with WineAlign.com

Konrad Ejbich, Host, CBC Radio Wine Phone-In; Columnist - Toronto Star StarWeek magazine and CityBites magazine

Steve Gunning, Chair, Wine Judges of Canada

Carolyn Evans Hammond, Site Editor, Winefox, wine critic and sommelier, www.wine-tribune.com

David Lawrason, VP of Wine – WineAlign.com, wine columnist – Toronto Life and Ottawa Magazine, National Wine Advisor – Gold Medal Plates and Principal Critic with WineAlign.com

Gordon Stimmell, wine writer at the Toronto Star and Starweek editor

Margaret Swaine, wine columnist – The National Post Newspaper, spirit columnist and Principal critic – WineAlign.com

Jim Warren, President – Ontario Viniculture Association, Executive Director – Fruit Wines of Ontario

The Royal Wine Competition - Best in Show$2000 Winemakers’ Award for Best in Show:

The Grange of Prince Edward
2010 Riesling VQA Prince Edward County

Konzelmann Estate Winery
2010 Cabernet Merlot VQA Niagara Peninsula

Prize money kindly donated by Arron Barberian, Barberian’s Steak House

Congratulations to all of the Medal winners!

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

RAWF 2012 Wine Competition

The Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Wine Competition

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Lawrason’s Take On Vintages Sept 18th Release – Ontario’s Moment

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

Ontario’s Moment, Classy Chardonnay, Douro Reds, Tuscan Coastal Treasures, South American Reds, a Great Australian blend, plus Personal Highlights and 90-Pointers from Niagara touring

The LCBO carves its calendar into promotional cycles – with each country equitably allotted its chunk of face time via in-store posters, banners and sometimes even throaty radio commercials. Each year at this time, fittingly as the harvest gets underway, Ontario gets its moment in the spotlight. And the marketing machinery is really starting to hum. The kick off this week was a Wines Ontario grape stomp at the CN Tower.  On Tuesday, Sept 21 Vintages teams up to present Taste Ontario at the Art Gallery of Ontario. And lest we forget, the annual Niagara Wine Festival runs Sept 17th through 25th.

Vintages theme is entitled Ontario’s Signature Style: the Buzz on What We Do Best.  This notion is very appropriate.  There are styles Ontario does better than others (both qualitatively and commercially), and we do need to focus within our tiny patchwork of vineyard along the Great Lakes in order to compete successfully with the big world out there. The five styles selected are chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, sparkling and icewine – and I would not quibble at all that given our cool climate these will be the styles that will give us good wine, at least eight years out of ten.  Sure we can make some good cabernet based reds some years (perhaps even most years along Lake Erie), and there will be spot successes with sauvignon blanc, syrah, merlot etc, but some of these are not really winter hardy varieties.  Our growers need to focus on perfecting a core group and not be encouraged to chase off after the next trendy grape, like malbec that doesn’t fit our climate.

Vineland Estates St. Urban Riesling 2008It is fitting that my pick as the best quality Ontario wine of this release is VINELAND ESTATES 2008 ST. URBAN RIESLING, a great buy at $19.95. If we can turn out wines like this at $20 we are made in the shade, both at home and abroad.  St. Urban Vineyard at Vineland is historic as well, the first Niagara Bench site planted to riesling, thanks to a federal government initiative in the mid 70s that help Herman Weiss of Germany’s Mosel Valley import and plant his Weiss clone.  Son Nick Weiss of Weingut St. Urbanshof often visits Toronto, most recently to promote is very good $14.95 Urban 2008 Rieslingrecently arrived on the LCBO general list.  But Vineland’s St. Urban Riesling is superior, a quintessentially Niagara riesling that’s juicy, steely and very long on the palate. There are many other very good Ontario wines to look at, including the newly minted, crown-capped Riddled sparkler from Flat Rock, Norman Hardie’s elegant 2008 County Pinot Noir, Lailey’s sturdy 2008 Pinot Noir and a clutch of chardonnays, with Tawse 2008 Sketches carving out the best value.

I want to add a few words about recent experiences in Niagara, but I’ll save that for the end and move along with Vintages Sept 18 release.


Antinori Castello Della Sala Bramito Del Cervo Chardonnay 2009Elsewhere I found some lovely non-Ontario chardonnays as well.  I think we are finally seeing the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement weeding out those cheap over-oaked, unbalanced, artificial tasting chardonnays; clearing the field for the really good stuff that needs to be priced at $25, $40 or $60 dollars to show just what this versatile grape, good barrels and talented winemakers can achieve.  California chardonnay, which has never really given up on the richer style it makes so naturally, delivers a trio of very good chardonnays from Laird, Stag’s Leap and the always opulent Landmark Overlook.  There is an excellent Pouilly-Fuissé from Burgundy as well. But the most fetching and surprising of the bunch is ANTINORI CASTELLO DELLA SALA 2006 BRAMITO DEL CERVO CHARDONNAY from high altitude limestone/clay soils in Umbria.  Cervaro della Sala has long been one of the great non-Burgundy chardonnays of Europe, and now comes this lighter, less expensive and equally classy and charming Bramito.


Quinta Do Crasto Old Vines Reserva 2007The mini-feature in the Sept 18 release is “Red-Hot Douro”.  The Douro Valley of Portugal is certainly one of the hottest wine regions on the planet in mid-summer, and its port wines are legendary. But this release is focused on its emerging “dry” reds, which I don’t think are yet commercially “hot” or even top of mind among the international wine press and trade, despite some good exposure.  Made from local varieties, in great conditions and often by talented winemakers, many are actually excellent quality and very good value. But there is a sturdiness and youthful tightness to the style that probably detracts in our age of instant gratification. And try as Portugal might, it is still not as sexy as even Spain next door, let alone Tuscany, the Rhone or Bordeaux (whose wines Douro reds most resemble in my books).  Vintages selection is well chosen, led by the progressive winemaking and great depth in QUINTA DO CRASTO OLD VINES RESERVA,  a deep, savoury, complex red from a field blend of several inter-mixed old vine varieties.  Most Douro reds do need to go into the cellar a bit.


Montepeloso Eneo 2006For the second time in as many months I am very impressed with Vintages generous selection of Tuscan reds, especially two notable examples from the coast south of Livorno. The lower slopes and benches of ancient hills that descend toward the warm Tyrrhenian Sea have proven fertile ground for cabernet sauvignon and merlot based reds, the most famous being Ornellaia (the 2007 coming Oct 2 is awesome) and Sassicaia, both from the Bolgheri region.  The much less expensive San Fabiano Calcinaia Cabernet Sauvignon is a great value, but I was most impressed by MONTEPELOSO 2006 ENEO from the Suvereto region about 30 kms south of Bolgheri.  This esteemed house does make cabernet and merlot based reds but this terrific red actually blends equal parts sangiovese and montepulciano with a small amount of other varieties.  There are also some very good Chianti’s in this release.


Concha Y Toro Marques De Casa Concha Carménere 2007The red wine wave continues with a handful of excellent, well-priced wines from Argentina and Chile. Is it just me, or is anyone else getting really bored with the full bodied but simple and often monotonous  simple plummy and earthy $13 malbecs from Argentina?  Perhaps I am being too harsh, because there are some I like, but I would much rather spend an extra $3 or $8 to get better quality, like the BenMarco 2008 at $17.95, or the exciting new blend called Lindaflor Petite Fleur out of the French owned Clos de Los Siete project.  But the best buy from South America this week is CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA 2007 CARMÉNERE. Since visiting Chile earlier this year I am very impressed with the strides being made with the late-ripening thus often under-ripe, green carmenere grape. This  svelte, deep beauty speaks volumes to the structure and depth it can render when allowed to ripen properly. The excellent 2007 vintage may have helped as well.


Burge Family Olive Hill 2006And finally to Australia with a wonderful savoury, deep red from the Barossa Valley BURGE FAMILY 206 OLIVE HILL SHIRAZ/GRENACHE/MOURVEDRE .  This is the kind of red Australia needs to be heartily promote to counter the impression that all Australia makes is soupy, hot, fruit bombs (of which there are a couple on this release).  This blend is indeed big at 15.8% alcohol, but it is packed with complex, intriguing flavours and has a stern, serious streak that speaks of real class as well.  One forgets about alcohol in such wines.  Ironically last week I attended a trade tasting with Grant Burge – different company – which also produces authentic Barossa, old vine reds like The Holy Trinity, a grenache-shiraz-mourvedre blend on the Vintages docket for October 30.  Watch for it, and more on Grant Burge at that point.

Back to Niagara for a moment.  I escorted back to back weekend tours to Niagara at the end of August, and was completely blown away by the quality of the food and wine experiences we enjoyed at some of wine country’s best destinations.  Rather than go into to delicious detail, which will be readily available should you make the voyage, I want to simply name names as to where you should go if travelling to Niagara this autumn.  In terms of accommodation the Harbour House Hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake is one of the finest small hotels in recent memory.   In terms of dining, Treadwell’s in Port Dalhousie is on top of its game and a great wine-dining local-only establishment. Hillebrand’s restaurant continues to shine with very creative chef Frank Dodd at the helm.  The Good Earth Cooking School, with small winery added this year, is a great lunch spot hidden away in orchards and vineyards near Beamsville. Ravine Vineyard’s food service, recently taken over by a set of young hot shot chefs under Stalander-trained  Paul Harder is excellent as well.

As for wineries: here is the list of those blazing the quality trail. And no, the wines are not always cheap, but I’ll put them up against wines of the same price from other countries, any day of the week.

In Niagara-on-the-Lake region:  Hillebrand (nifty new Trius Brut Rose and great 2007 Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon);  Southbrook, for excellent Whimsy 2007 reds and 2008 Chardonnay; Ravine Vineyard, for its 2007 Cab Franc and other Bordeaux reds.  On the Niagara Bench side:  Hidden Bench with great 2008 Chardonnay, 2008 Pinot Noir and winery- only 2008 Fume Blanche;  Tawse with its outstanding Robyn’s Block 2008 Chardonnay and upcoming 2008 Laurizten Pinot Noir;  Malivoire with its nifty 2009 Gamay Small Lot and any older Moira Chardonnay you can find; and Flat Rock Cellars for its 2007 Reserve Chardonnay and 2009 Nadja’s Riesling.  All are 90 point wines in my books.

Enjoy.

See all my reviews for the September 18th release here.

Cheers,

- David Lawrason, VP of Wine at WineAlign

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John Szabo’s Vintages Preview – Sept 18th release – Ontario’s Signature Styles & Douro Reds

John Szabo, MS

I’ve written recently here on WineAlign about the Canadian Wine Awards and what I think are the signature styles emerging in Canada, and Ontario in particular, and, well, this Vintages release gets it spot on. Out of 18 Ontario wines on offer here, there are 4 rieslings, 4 chardonnays, 4 pinot noirs, 4 Icewines and 2 sparkling wines. While I may not agree with all of the particulars, I have to say that if LCBO head office had called me to plan an Ontario release (it has yet to snow in the underworld) and gave me 18 spots to fill I would likely have come up with the same plan-o-gram. These are the styles in which Ontario excels, which I buy, and which I drink with pleasure. Obviously there are many excellent wines in other categories, but if you’re talking signature, these are the categories to start with.

That Ontario is a world leader in Icewine there is no doubt. My personal view, however (not necessarily reflected by other WineAlign critics), is that the industry is too reliant on Icewine. There is too much produced, too much of dubious quality, and the market simply isn’t there. True, it’s our only significant export product and the international emblem of the Canadian wine industry, and when it sells the profit margins are extremely attractive, but I wonder how dumping poor quality Icewine in Asia and elsewhere will affect the industry long term. The rest of the world just doesn’t drink much of it; folks love it at the winery tasting bars when it’s free or very cheap, but I wager that the majority that’s actually purchased is destined to be a gift for someone else, or sits in the cellar waiting for that special day that hasn’t come yet. How many glasses of Icewine have you consumed in the last year? (please do comment on this posting and let me know. Maybe I’m dead wrong). At least in the restaurant market, I see sweet wine sales reports and they are not encouraging. Most is given away as a “comp” (not in the restaurants where I have a hand in the beverage program, ‘cause that’s illegal), or sales are tied in to desserts or tasting menus. Otherwise Icewine bottles collect dust.

Don’t get me wrong. I do believe that Icewine is and should be a signature style for Ontario. There are some glorious examples. But that’s the point. I’d love to see less of it made, more of it of top quality, and tighter controls on which bottles get the VQA seal of approval from the tasting panel. Make it truly the exclusive, prestigious, signature product it has always wanted to be.

Cave Spring Csv Cave Spring Vineyard Riesling 2008All of this is really just my week attempt to justify the fact that I didn’t make it to taste the Icewines in this release. There was simply too much other good wine on which to focus. My top three Ontario picks are unsurprisingly all rieslings, led off by the outstanding 2008 CAVE SPRING CSV RIESLING VQA, Beamsville Bench, $29.95. Always a classic, this old vines wine achieves signature expression in 2008. Château des Charmes delivers the best value Ontario wine, with the killer 2007 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES OLD VINES RIESLING VQA, Niagara-on-the-Lake, $16.95. This is one of the most compelling 2007 rieslings out there, mature but not tiring as many of the 07s are, delivering beautiful minerality and depth for under $17. Also superb but needing some time in the cellar is yet another ‘old vine’ Riesling,2008 VINELAND ESTATES ST. URBAN RIESLING VQA, Niagara Escarpment, $19.95.


Chardonnay, Ontario’s other signature white variety, puts in a good showing, filling up the next two spots in the top ten Ontario list. The really top stuff is missing from the release, likely due to questions of price or availability or both, but I definitely enjoyed the 2009 FLAT ROCK CELLARS UNPLUGGED CHARDONNAY VQA,Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, $15.95, a fresh, crisp, Chablis-esque example that goes down real easy, unplugged, unoaked and no batteries required. If you do prefer a little plugging into barrels, then you’ll enjoy the 2008 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA CHARDONNAY VQA, Niagara Peninsula, $19.95. Le Clos Jordanne’s 2008 TALON RIDGE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY VQA, Niagara Peninsula, Vinemount Ridge $37.00 is the most ‘serious’ example, which needs another 2-3 years in the cellar to reach peak, I’d estimate.

The disappointment from the release is the selection of pinot noirs. There are some real beauties in Ontario as I have written earlier, but they’re not here, perhaps because of that price/availability thing again. The only one in the top ten is the 2008 NORMAN HARDIE COUNTY PINOT NOIR VQA, Prince Edward County, $35.20, which is a light, delicate, finessed style that’s highly drinkable overall, but lean and leafy at the end of the day. As most know I’m not a bigger-is-better drinker, but for $35 I expect a little more depth and complexity. I know that Hardie’s not pocketing fat margins at our expense – it’s costly to grow grapes in the County – the vines just need to grow older and the sun needs to shine a little more.

Montepeloso Eneo 2006Have a perusal of the non-Ontario wines in the top ten smart buys list. I’ve included some higher-than-usual priced wines, but they still represent value. In particular, fans of Tuscan wines  can’t miss the astonishingly good 2006 MONTEPELOSO ENEO IGT, Toscana $44.95. This was my first encounter with Montepeloso (where have I been all these years?), and just when you rekon that the last thing the world needs is yet another expensive super Tuscan made by some well-heeled foreigner looking to live the Under-the-Tuscan-Sun dream (Montepeloso was purchased from Willi and Doris Neukom in 1998 by the quality-obsessed Swiss-Italian historian Fabio Chiarelotto), along comes this stunner. After a taste of this, I was struck as if by the Ebola virus, immediately and irremediably (although in a better way), and suddenly, I was dreaming of owning a Tuscan property with vines and writing a book. The Montepeloso estate is situated on what some consider to be one of the finest terroirs in Italy, on a gentle, chalky, gravel-clay hillside just above Tua Rita (another famed property) in Suvereto near the Tuscan coast. Eneo is not the top cuvee of the estate, but this montepulciano and sangiovese-dominated blend aged in 2nd and 3rd year barrels is a fantastically pure expression that oozes class at a mini-Tuscan price.

The other mini-theme of the release is Red Hot Douro reds, which merits a section of its own. There are so many outstanding table (dry) wines being produced in the Douro these days that it’s hard to keep track. In some cases the prices have crept above the $100 mark, but the selection here is definitely still in the value category. Even my top pick, the 2007 QUINTA DO CRASTO OLD VINES RESERVA DOC, Douro at $34.95 can be considered extraordinary value, considering the mixed ancient vines parcels on ultra-steep slate slopes where this hails, not too mention the quality of the wine itself. Look for my full article on the wines of the Douro to be posted shortly on WineAlign, originally written for the Sommelier’s Guide to Portuguese wines commissioned by ViniPortugal.

Quinta Do Crasto Old Vines Reserva 2007

Click on the following to see my:
Top Ten Smart Buys
Top Ten Ontario Wines
Top Douro Reds
All Reviews

Cheers,


John Szabo, Master Sommelier

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Cuvée Awards 2010 – by John Szabo

Cuvée Awards 2010

The winners of the 2010 Cuvée awards were announced on February 19, 2010 at the Fallsview Casino during the annual Cuvée Gala. The wine industry was out in full force and the gala organizers did an exceptional job in drawing in cooking talent from across the province – easily the best culinary experience at these awards, at least in my limited history.

What makes the Cuvée awards a little different from most competitions is that they are judged entirely by winemakers. Each participating winery is asked to enter their three best wines. According to the press release, “This year, 45 winemakers tasted over 200 wines from 56 wineries to determine the winners. In addition, during the judging process, judges are asked to indicate if wines merit a Cuvée Gold designation, demonstrating international standards for excellence in quality.”

Not surprisingly, many of the usual achievers figure among the winners. Here is the full list:

Cuvée Award Winners 2010

Red Wine / WINNER

sponsored by Scott Laboratories

Inniskillin Wines

Reserve Series Cabernet Franc 2007 GOLD

Limited Edition Red Wine / WINNER

sponsored by Sun Media Niagara Publishing Group

Niagara College Teaching Winery

Dean’s List Pinot Noir Canadian Oak Project 2007 GOLD

White Wine / WINNER

sponsored by Scott Laboratories

Flat Rock Cellars

Reserve Chardonnay 2007 GOLD

Limited Edition White Wine / WINNER

sponsored by Vines – Sun Media Niagara Publishing Group

Creekside Estate Winery

Reserve Viognier 2008 GOLD

LCBO Red Wine / WINNER

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery

Proprietors’ Reserve Meritage 2007 GOLD

LCBO White Wine / WINNER

Creekside Estate Winery

Pinot Grigio 2008 GOLD

Sweet Wine / WINNERS

sponsored by Bruni Glass Packaging Canada

Konzelmann Estate Winery

Vidal Icewine 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

Strewn Winery

Vidal Icewine 2006 2ND PLACE GOLD

Reif Estate Winery

Vidal Icewine 2007 3RD PLACE GOLD

Limited Edition Sweet Wine / WINNER

Mountain Road Wine Company

Vidal Icewine 2004 GOLD

Sparkling Wine / WINNERS

Hillebrand Winery

Trius Brut Rose NV TIED FOR 1ST PLACE GOLD

Maleta Estate Winery

VIEW Old Vines Dry Sparking Riesling 2007 TIED FOR 1ST PLACE GOLD

Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery

Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut NV 2ND PLACE GOLD

Cave Spring Cellars

Dolomite Brut 2006 3RD PLACE GOLD

Chardonnay / WINNERS

Flat Rock Cellars

Reserve Chardonnay 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

DeSousa Wine Cellars

Chardonnay Reserve 2007 2ND PLACE GOLD

Riesling / WINNERS

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

Small Lot Riesling “Steel Post Vineyard” 2008 1ST PLACE GOLD

Rosewood Estates Winery

Natalie’s Riesling Süssreserve 2008 2ND PLACE GOLD

Gewürztraminer / WINNER

Rosewood Estates Winery

Gewürztraminer 2008 GOLD

Sauvignon Blanc / WINNER

Creekside Estate Winery

Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007 GOLD

White Assemblage / WINNER

Legends Estates Winery

Diva (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) 2008 GOLD

Viognier / WINNER

Creekside Estate Winery

Reserve Viognier 2008 GOLD

Cabernet Sauvignon / WINNERS

Kacaba Vineyards

Kacaba Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

Hillebrand Winery

Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon Clark Farm 2007 2ND PLACE GOLD

Cabernet Franc / WINNERS

Inniskillin Wines

Reserve Series Cabernet Franc 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

Tawse Winery

Van Bers Cabernet Franc 2007 2ND PLACE GOLD

Meritage / WINNERS

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

Small Lot Benchmark Red 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

Vineland Estates Winery

Elevation Cabernet 2007 2ND PLACE GOLD

Southbrook Vineyards

Poetica Cabernet Merlot 2007 TIED FOR 3RD PLACE GOLD

Wayne Gretzky Estates

Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2007 TIED FOR 3RD PLACE GOLD

Pinot Noir / WINNERS

Tawse Winery

17th St Pinot Noir 2007 1ST PLACE GOLD

Cave Spring Cellars

Pinot Noir Estate 2007 2ND PLACE GOLD

Gamay Noir / WINNER

13th Street Winery

Sandstone Vineyard Old Vines Gamay Noir 2007 GOLD

Merlot / WINNER

Peller Estates Winery

Signature Series Merlot 2007 GOLD

Red Assemblage / WINNER

Wayne Gretzky Estates

Estate Series Shiraz Cabernet 2007 GOLD

Syrah/Shiraz / WINNERS

Fielding Estate Winery

Syrah 2007 TIED FOR 1ST PLACE GOLD

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery

Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Syrah 2007 TIED FOR 1ST PLACE GOLD

Toney Aspler Cuvée

Award of Excellence / WINNER

sponsored by Tony Aspler

Jon Ogryzlo, Dean, Food and Wine Sciences at Niagara College

Jon Ogryzlo – for spearheading the creation of the Niagara College

Wine Visitor & Education Centre.

Cuvée Award of

Excellence in Viticulture / WINNER

sponsored by the Grape Growers of Ontario

Albrecht Seeger, Seeger Farms

Cuvée Gold Awards

Sweet Wine

Château des Charmes Wines

Cabernet Franc Icewine Estate Bottled 2007 GOLD

Dan Aykroyd Wines

Signature Vidal Icewine 2006 GOLD

White Wine

Mountain Road Wine Company

Reserve Chardonnay 2006 GOLD

Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery

Reserve Chardonnay 2007 GOLD

Strewn Winery

Chardonnay Barrel Fermented Amalgam 2007 GOLD

Red Wine

Kacaba Vineyards

Kacaba Vineyards Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah 2007 GOLD

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