Mother’s Day: Give the gift of rest, appreciation – and wine, of course!

Sara d’Amato

Recently I became a mother for the third time with the birth of little Jasper a mere eight weeks ago. Despite the haze of newborn-dom I am back to tasting wine. The most valuable asset a mother has is the ability to multitask. In fact, while I write this I am also playing Lego and making blueberry pancakes. With renewed sympathy and appreciation for mothers everywhere, and especially my own, I would like to offer a few suggestions to all of you wracking your brains to come up with the perfect mother’s day solution. And although I realize that writing this piece may be somewhat (hopefully) self-serving (hint hint), I can assure you from ample personal experience that these suggestions will not go unappreciated.

The theme of these wine recommendations is relaxation, something that might come naturally to most people, but that many mothers learn to live without, at least as long as they have children under their roofs. What we mothers want from Mother’s Day is simple: rest and appreciation. No need for expensive gifts or elaborate surprises. And if your mom is anything like me, a nice round glass of aptly-chosen wine is the very symbol of relaxation. Whether you are planning a home-cooked brunch or allowing mom some free time at home alone, a bottle of wine will never be unwelcome.

Brunch Worthy:

Treating mom to a home cooked meal is a tried and true practice on Mother’s Day. But to go the extra mile and pair brunch with a memorable bottle of wine will win yourself a multitude of points. To whet your palate, here are a few praiseworthy suggestions:

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Blanc De Blanc 2007
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, ON $44.95

Not only will this newly redesigned, gorgeous bottle dress up your table, it will add class to your affair. A mistake would be attempting to make this into a mimosa, however, so stay away from the OJ and let the wine alone impress. Pair with blini, crème fraiche and caviar for a decadent match.

Tilia Torrontes 2010
Salta, Argentina, ON $12.95

Fun, fresh, floral and unique, this affordable selection is also sure to receive thumbs up from moms everywhere. Skip the bouquet and reach for the Torrontes for a fresh alternative to her usual faves. Try with Thai inspired cold spring rolls.

Ca’Dei Mandorli Dei Giari Moscato D’asti 2011
Piedmont, Italy, ON $15.95

Here’s a wine that will have mom asking for a second glass and with half the alcohol as in a standard glass of wine, there is no reason not to indulge (an apt selection for nursing mothers). Pair with a lemon panna cotta or mixed greens with strawberries and almonds.

Château St. Roch Syrah/Grenache Rosé 2011
Languedoc Roussillon, France Vintages, ON $14.95

Both the ladies and the men of the house will appreciate this swoon-worthy rosé from southern France. Dry with notes of lavender and pink grapefruit, this will prove a delightful pairing for smoked salmon eggs benedict.

Contemplative Whites

Taking the kids out for ice cream and allowing mom some peaceful time alone to rest and relax is just the thing to recharge the overworked lady of the house. Leaving her a bottle of wine and a charming note will have her smiling in no time. Here are a few restorative suggestions:

Norman Hardie Chardonnay 2009
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, ON $35.00

An intuitive, generous and thoughtful family man himself, Norman Hardie also produces world-class chardonnays rich with terroir-inspired complexity, subtlety and elegance. A great wine to help mom contemplate and appreciate her generous and thoughtful family.

Santo Santorini Assyrtiko 2011
Santorini, Greece, ON $16.95

Whisk mom away to one of the most beautiful spots in the world for some restorative daydreaming. The island of Santorini is perhaps the planet’s most picturesque locale with a dramatic coastline dotted by whitewashed dwellings that contrast the deep blue sea. As a result of its volcanic formation, the beaches feature jet-black sand and contribute to the complex terroir of these racy and verve-filled wines such as this scintillating assyrtiko.

Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2011
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, ON $19.95, BC $16.99

An undeniably inviting wine that will both challenge and seduce, this delectable pinot is made in the heavier, more complex ‘gris’ style as opposed to the often lighter, brighter, more simple ‘grigio’ style. The west coast produces some of the most exquisite examples of this varietal and this bottle is a case in point. Utterly enjoyable on its own but also makes a great pairing for soft and semi-soft cheeses.

Melt-Away Reds:

Pampering goes hand and hand with Mother’s Day so spoil her with an indulgent, enveloping, plush, velvety wine that will prove more satisfying than the spa. Sure to keep her off her feet for the afternoon while you finish the clean up (hint, hint).

Château Pech Redon L’épervier 2010
Côteaux Du Languedoc, France, ON $19.95

A strikingly soulful and compelling find at less than the price of a manicure (and much more rewarding). This spicy, wildly flavoured southern blend of syrah and grenache will prove both stimulating and indulgent.

Langa Centenaria Garnacha 2008
Calatayud, Spain, ON $13.95

A massage and a bottle of grenache would do the trick for me on Mother’s Day and here’s a great value that is sure to knock her socks off. A decadent, almost guilty pleasure, this grenache is a perfect pairing for a little dark, spiced chocolate.

Monte Del Frá Lena Di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Veneto, Italy, ON $48.95, BC $79.99

This wine is certainly a splurge, but this is mom we’re talking about. Amarone is often thought of as a ‘masculine’ wine but in reality, women appreciate the lush, velvety texture and opulent fruit just as much as men and with reportedly more sensitive noses, we can certainly derive greater enjoyment from such a generously flavoured wine.

Here’s to all mothers out there who could really use a break! Wishing you a peaceful and indulgent day.

Sara d’Amato

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, BC Liquor Stores, LCBO, Mother's Day, Sara d'Amato, Vintages, Wine

“So, You Think You Know Wine?” Episode 3.3

WineAlign is pleased to present Episode 3.3 of “So, You Think You Know Wine?”

Season 3 showcases some of Canada’s most widely recognized, award-winning sommeliers and wine critics. WineAlign’s own David Lawrason, Sara d’Amato, Steve Thurlow and Master Sommelier John Szabo are joined and challenged by Master Sommelier Jennifer Huether, Master Sommelier Bruce Wallner, Zoltan Szabo (Sommelier at Trump Tower), William Predhomme (Sommelier at Canoe) and Bill Zacharkiw (Montreal Gazette).

Our critics have to rely on skill and talent as they use their nose, eyes and palette to identify the flavours, aromas and general characteristics of a wine to correctly determine five elements about the wine. For a wine critic, a blind taste test is the ultimate challenge.

Welcome Division “C”

The new episode is posted and ready to go, so pour yourself a glass of wine and tune in here: Episode 3.3

In this third episode, we welcome Division ‘C’. Familiar faces from last season, David Lawrason, Jennifer Heuther and Zoltan Szabo, return to test their skills against this favorite New Zealand variety. But will it be as obvious as you think?

Recap and Scorecard

In Episode 3.2, Division ‘B’ contestants Sara, Bruce and Bill were all in agreement with the grape variety in this 2010 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay from California. However, it was Sara who picked up the most points for recognizing this as a new world wine made in an elegant old world style.

Here’s how the score sits after Episode 3.2:

There’s more to come

Additional episodes of “So, You Think You Know Wine?” will be posted on WineAlign over the coming weeks. We hope you enjoy them as much as we did making them and encourage you to share them with your friends.

Past Episodes are always available under Videos within the Discuss tab on the WineAlign Home page.

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Filed under: Video, Sara d'Amato, So You Think You Know Wine, Wine Education, Wine Tasting

Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best; by Sara d’Amato and Janet Dorozynski

Ontario’s Cuvee 2013: Winemakers Pour Their Best and Experts Deliberate on Niagara’s Cabs & Merlot

Sara d’Amato

At the time winter should be yielding to spring, Ontario marks its most star-studded annual wine event, Cuvée. This is the time Ontario winemakers showcase the wines in which they take most pride at a black tie gala event held at the Fallsview Casino in Niagara Falls and subsequently at the tasting bars of the participating wineries themselves over the weekend. It is a night when all facets of the industry mingle and eager wine enthusiasts benefit from all of the fanfare and excitement. Janet Dorozynski and I were both present this year, and we are pleased to collaborate and share our experiences with you here.

This year marked the 25^th anniversary of Cuvée, and with it came significant changes to the event. In the past, award-winning Cuvée wines were chosen by the winemakers themselves in a blind tasting competition held prior to the gala. This year, the awards were done away with in favor of a ‘Grand Tasting’ format: the participating winemakers were asked to choose their favorite one wine to showcase at the event. The new format was overwhelmingly well received and, I think, made for a more interesting event. The presentation of one wine from each of the wineries allowed for a much more intimate and memorable experience for guests.

Since 1989, Cuvée has brought media, aficionados and winemakers together to experience the best the province has to offer, or at least the pride of the winemakers. It also allows us to meet the stars behind the bottles, dressed to their nines, and gives us perspective into the personalities that make up our Ontario wine culture. This year, 42 Ontario wineries participated in the event and, in addition to the Dairy Farmers of Ontario, 9 chefs each cooked up three creative and wine-friendly dishes to inspire tasters.

Interestingly, the wines chosen by the winemakers seemed extremely varied both stylistically and varietal-wise. The only small theme seemed to be in the realm of chardonnay – the chosen varietal showcased by six producers. Although there is nothing particularly surprising about having this many chardonnays presented, the styles had a distinct commonality in their restraint and purity of fruit. As chardonnay drinkers become more sophisticated, this nervy, stripped down style or, at least, the use of winemaking techniques to support natural flavours as opposed to enhance or manipulate them is both progressive and pervasive among regions world-wide in even the most commercial of offerings. Ontario is no exception, and the majority of chardonnays were both surprising and refreshing.

Sara’s Top Cuvée 2013 Picks:

Megalomaniac Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc 2008
John Howard Cellars of Distinction
$44.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Sue-Ann Staff

This was the first wine I tasted of the evening and I remained most impressed by its ability to endure on my palate throughout the course of the night. When carefully grown and then sensitively treated, cabernet franc has the ability to stun the senses. Cool and wet best describes 2008 and was best suited for the Burgundian varietals of chardonnay and pinot noir. However, with carefully managed hang time, and a dry end to the season made for some exceptionally aromatic and expressive cabernet franc such as this wow-me of an example.

Ravine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Select, Unfiltered 2009
$40 from the winery, Winemaker: Shauna White

Young but certainly not inexperienced and with a talent for winemaking in her genes, Shauna White is keeping Ravine Vineyards’ offerings dynamic and exciting at a generally affordable price point. This chardonnay boasts real elegance and restraint and because it did not go through malo-lactic fermentation it retains its freshness and purity of fruit quite distinctively.

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate, Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2010,
$32.95 from the winery, Winemaker: Marco Piccoli

The Delaine vineyard site has been producing high-quality fruit under its name since 2001. It is planted with several varieties but what I have found is consistently most exciting is their peppery syrah. There is definitive elegance in this cool climate style that expresses itself so uniquely in Niagara. Not to be missed.

Janet’s 90+ Picks from Cuvée 2013:

Château des Charmes Equuleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, 2010
$40.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Paul Bosc

The founder of Chateau des Charmes, Paul Bosc Sr, is a devotee of Arabian horses, with Equuleus being the Latin term for little horse. This tribute wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s fleshy and a tad flashy, and definitely shows the depth and concentration of the warm 2010 vintage in Ontario. Rich dark fruit and notes of cocoa mingle nicely in this well-balanced, well-made wine. Ready to race now or cellar for 8+ years.

Stratus Vineyards Stratus White 2009
$44.00 Vintages, Winemaker: J-L Groux

Niagara’s take on white Bordeaux with a twist. The Stratus White 2009 is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Gewurztraminer. Each of the components are aged in oak, which brings richness and texture and imparts a subtle vanilla cream spiciness to a palate of peach, apricots and tangerine flavours. Medium bodied, with vibrant acidity and a lingering toast and spicy finish. Exotic and charming.

Lailey Vineyard Winery Impromptu 2010
$45.00 from the winery, Winemaker: Derek Barnett

This is Lailey Vineyards flagship red that is only made in exceptional vintages, which 2010 was for reds in Niagara. Predominantly Syrah (75%), with equal parts Malbec and fragrant Petit Verdot, come together in this enticing package. Ripe, with fine supple tannins and balanced acidity, this is a fine and elegant medium-bodied wine. Can be drunk now or kept for 5 to 7 years.

Thomas Bachelder Wismer Chardonnay 2010
$44.95 Vintages, Winemaker: Thomas Bachelder

A brilliant wine from one of Niagara’s star winemakers, with fruit sourced from one of Niagara’s viticultural sweet spots, the Wismer vineyard. Complex and creamy, with stone fruit flavours, the acidity is crisp but balanced, with a generous, textured mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. A true masterpiece.

The Experts Tasting: Getting a handle on Bordeaux Reds

Janet Dorozynski

The Expert’s Tasting at Brock is by invitation only and a highly anticipated event for the Ontario trade, media and wineries. The event is organized and hosted by the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University and focuses on a different theme or grape variety each year, in order to dig more deeply into the state of vinous affairs of the region.

This year’s focus was “Bordeaux reds”, and while never a huge proponent of Ontario Bordeaux reds, save for Cabernet Franc, I have to say that I was presently surprised by what we tasted. While Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are more difficult to get consistently ripe and right in Ontario, Cabernet Franc is more suited to cooler climates and has been doing better throughout the years.

The tasting was divided into five flights, with the first four focused on a varietal or stylistic theme related to Bordeaux red varieties.  The flights were presented by winemakers and principals, many of which were CCOVI graduates, with themes centered on popular songs. Most of the wines were current vintages or releases from Ontario, with a few older vintages along with ringers from Napa and Bordeaux thrown in to keep us on our toes.

The Merlot flight was entitled R.E.S.P.E.C.T, since it usually doesn’t get much, in which we tasted some good examples from Malivoire Wine Co. (Stouck Vineyard 2010 Merlot) along with the Trius Clark Farm Merlot 2010. 

During the Mothers of Innovation flight for Cabernet Franc, we learned about the grapes regal lineage and how it, along with Sauvignon Blanc, was parent of the noble Cabernet Sauvignon. This was my preferred flight of the tasting with the highlights being the Stratus 2008 Cabernet Franc, which was harvested on December 8, 2008, alongside the Peller Estates 2010 Cabernet Franc from the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, which was rich and intense with extraordinarily great structure. 

In the We Are Family flight for Bordeaux blends, we once again tasted a Stouck Vineyard wine from Malivoire, this time the 2010 Cabernet Merlot, which seems to illustrate that there is something special about both this grower and site in the Beamsville Bench.  We also tasted the Hidden Bench Terroir Cache from 2010 and 2007, along with the Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot from 2002 and 2007, all of which showed that Ontario Bordeaux blends from good vintages can and do age well.   

In Flight Four, with a nod to the Who’s Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy, we tasted a range of big and plush textured reds from the Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), along with a few blends and the Foreign Affair 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit from low yields (2 tonnes per acre) and containing 25% appassimento grapes, grapes that are dried prior to fermentation and a style of wine which we are seeing more often in Ontario. 

The last flight – “If You Don’t Know me by Now” – was a  “Wine Options” flight, where each table has to guess the variety, vintage, region, producer for each of the five wines poured. Wine Options is an antipodean specialty, first started by Australian Len Evans after a Chateau Thabilk tasting in Sydney, and is always an exciting and humbling finale to the Expert’s Tasting.

To some extent, many of the wines tasted reconfirmed what I’d already thought about Bordeaux reds – they can be very good but are vintage and site specific in Ontario. I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by a number of the blends and Cabernet Sauvignon, though overall, the highlight for me was the Cabernet Franc flight, which seems to reinforce the place for this earlier ripening grape in the region and the reason why many view it as a core variety for both Ontario and Canada. 

Janet’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

Peller Estates “Signature Series” 2010 Cabernet Franc
$40.20 from the winery

A Cabernet Franc with good depth and structure. Aromatic, with red berry and cedar notes, with a touch of grilled red peppers on the nose. Medium to full bodied, with balanced acidity and present and slightly grippy tannins. Long finish. Would be a good match for grilled lamb.

Malivoire Wine Co. 2010 Cabernet Merlot ‘Stouck’
$29.95, Vintages

A limited edition Cabernet Merlot release from Malivoire, with fruit from Beamsville Bench wine grower Dan Stouck. Very deeply coloured, with an intense nose of dark fruit and berries, spice and coffee, which is complemented by richness and depth on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with good grip and a long intoxicating finish.

Sara’s 90+ Picks from the Expert’s Tasting

“The Temptress” Foreign Affair Winery 2010
$44.95 from the winery

The impressive power delivered by the appassimento style (or drying of the grapes in order to increase concentration) which has become ever popular in Ontario, can yield impressively rich results that make it difficult to determine the origin of the wine, especially during warmer vintages. The results can easily vary from hot and sweet to dry and concentrated. Although not always a fan of this bombshell of a style, this particular version made from a large proportion of merlot was undeniably impressive. When results such as these can be achieved, it is extremely pleasurable to concentrate them.

Hidden Bench Meritage “Terroir Cache” 2007
$45.00 from the winery

Substantial but showing restraint, this plump, lush and sensuous wine is just beginning to show signs of maturity. A smoky, dried leaf flavour helps quell the power of the fruit and adds character and refinement to the blend. Well-crafted and quite indicative of the aromatic potential and length that can be produced by a Bordelaise blend in Niagara.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2002
$50.00 from the winery

This was a bit of a contentious wine in the tasting; some believing it lacked substance and others took issue with its notable maturity. However, I couldn’t’ help but appreciate its charm and distinctive flavours that still remained. Notes of pepper, fruit spice, dill and graphite along with delicate floral notes that still shone through despite its evolved state are surely a testament to the graceful longevity of which is there good potential in Niagara.

A panel of experts from winemakers, to educators, to sommeliers were involved in selecting the wines for these flights, which were designed to help us understand the roles that individual Bordelaise varietals play in our unique climate. Indeed, they were very helpful in illustrating several key points, including the fact that earlier ripening varietals such as cabernet franc and merlot have particularly important roles in our climate, as they provide a certain insurance that they will ripen in most years. In a cooler year, cabernet sauvignon risks being rained out, or can remain hanging on the vine into the winter before fully ripening. Cabernet franc’s aromatic contribution to the blend is distinctly apparently in our Ontario style, which is complemented by merlot’s lushness and even structure as was demonstrated in the first flight.

These flights also provided good illustrations of the ageabillity of our Bordeaux blends, as several examples that Janet mentioned previously, showed remarkably well, especially those dating back to the warmer vintage of 2002. Harmonious, balanced, and refined, there were great similarities here to French Bordeaux of a similar age, which I have tasted as of late.

There were at least as many conclusions as wines served that could be drawn from this enlightening and academic tasting regarding the potential for these challenging wines in Ontario. One thing was made resoundingly clear, however, and that was that these wines are worth are effort and our closer examination.

For more reviews of wines presented at Cuvee 2013, follow this link: Cuvee 2013 Wines.

Photos courtesy of: Robert Nowell, www.robertnowellphoto.com

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Cuvée, Janet Dorozynski, Ontario Wine, Sara d'Amato

Bordeaux 2010: Yet Another Vintage of the Century?

Bordeaux 2010 – A joint report by Sara d’Amato and Julian Hitner

Sara d’Amato

Classic, timeless, elegant and powerful are adjectives that spring to mind immediately at the thought of the great wines of Bordeaux. So, however, do expensive, austere and snobby. The multi-faceted wines of this most revered wine region engender both respect and awe but also intimidation and distrust. Notably this skepticism is felt at the onset of another “vintage of the century” – as the 2010s have been hailed – and soaring prices reflective of this fact have left many collectors uncertain about whether the prices are worth the purchase again this year.

The yearly UGC (Union des Grands Crus) tasting finally touched down in Toronto last week, affording collectors a chance to taste for themselves this highly touted vintage on the back of a vintage of similar praiseworthiness. The Union des Grands Cru is a collective of 134 Châteaux across seven of the most prestigious and highly valued appellations of Bordeaux. Worldwide sales of this collective of producers are valued at $415 million per annum and represent over 5,000 hectares of planted vine. The wines of the upcoming vintage release are showcased every year in major cities across the US, Canada, Asia and Europe and tend to be quite representative of the overall quality of the vintage. Here in Toronto, the event is organized through VINTAGES and is set up as a “taste and buy” experience. Of course, the wines are not yet available in the market, so this is a preview for buyers and critics alike and a chance to purchase “futures”.  (For details on how to purchase these futures in Ontario, click on this link to VINTAGES.com)

Julian Hitner and I were both present at this year’s “en primeur” tasting and are pleased to share our impressions. Julian has a true passion for Bordeaux and was able to taste many of the wines in London prior to our tasting here in Toronto. His notes are extremely comprehensive, well-informed, and have been uploaded with mine under 2010 Bordeaux on WineAlign. Following my comments are Julian’s recommended best values, which show distinctive and important differences throughout the left and right bank.

My personal interest in Bordeaux stems from time spent as an oenology stagière on the right bank in 2004. Having had the chance to visit many of the properties and develop a greater understanding of winemaking culture and politics, I continue to be enthralled by the powerful and deep-rooted heritage of this most influential of wine regions.

Sandrine Bégaud, Château Rauzan-Ségla

This year’s tasting featured an undeniably outstanding vintage whose praise is well justified, although price remains a contentious issue. Sandrine Bégaud, Public Relations Manager of Château Rauzan-Ségla, says that the market was not ready for another great vintage, as people had invested a great deal already in the 2009s. Prices might have better reflected this reality in order to avoid a ‘lag’ in the 2010 sales, as we are seeing now in comparison to other great vintages. Nonetheless, the idea that “quality has no price” is being touted by many of the estates prideful of this vintage. In a subsequent article, Julian will further explore pricing in Bordeaux.

Climate and the Human Factor

So, why does the 2010 vintage of Bordeaux deserve your admiration and respect, and what is responsible for this vintage that Patrick Maroteaux, President of Château Branaire Ducru, calls the “top vintage of the last 30 years”? Influential Robert Parker is extolling the 2010s along with 2009s and 2005s as the “three greatest Bordeaux vintages I have tasted in my career.” In part, this has to do with conditions – a mix of factors such as a wet winter and spring helped the vines manage a dry summer, along with classically typical cool nights and warm days that were responsible for a great level of acidic structure development. In addition, heat was not as extreme as it could have been, resulting in many producers allowing grapes to hang just a little longer on the vines, developing better phenolic ripeness while preserving balance and structure. Although the climate played a big role, producers learned from the 2009 vintage in creating the 2010s, says Caroline Ruffié, Public Relations Director of Château Ferrière, and were able to achieve better tannic extraction resulting in more complex and age-worthy wines in 2010.

What to Expect

In 2010, we see an impressive homogeneity between the styles and execution in terms of preservation of structure and elegance across the important regions, although more notably in the left bank. As we will explore further below, there appears to be more stylistic variability in the wines of the right bank that often show more lushness than those of the left. Generally speaking, though, the wines of 2010 are tight as a drum with firm, ripe tannins, vibrant acidity and richly concentrated fruit. This is a vintage to last the test of time. Stylistically quite different from the more overt, approachable 2009s, many producers intentionally took a more classic approach to this balanced and condition-favored vintage.

A truly classic Bordeaux vintage such as this should be difficult to appreciate at this point in its evolution. Its tannic structure, most notably, should be tight and firm, but not drying (despite the fact that when tasting a large number of these wines, the cumulative effect of the tannins can be perceived as such). Some examples appeared closed, others merely restrained. Generally speaking, colours were dark and stable, acidity was solidly present and the fruit was concentrated and tightly wound. Most definitely a challenging and heady tasting for all. However, perhaps the more impressive challenge is that Bordeaux seems to be able to have pulled off another stellar vintage on the back of one that was also exquisite.

Sara’s Top Recommendations for Overall Value:

Although there were many praiseworthy wines at this year’s UGC, I will keep my recommendations, in this article, to five wines spread over five prestigious regions represented by the Union. (All of my reviews have been posted on WineAlign under this tag: 2010 Bordeaux)

Pessac-Leognan: Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc

Although, arguably, there has been some inconsistency in quality over the last decade in the wines of Smith Haut Lafitte, I have been more often wholeheartedly impressed by the whites. From a region just south of the important red regions of the Médoc, the gravelly soils of Pessac-Léognan produce both reds and stunning dry whites that are highly structured and boast intensely heady aromatics. Stylish and refined, the 2010 Blanc presents lush minerality and gorgeous wild herbal and floral aromatics with just a kiss of oak – a real­­­­­ standout in this tasting with complex, highly intriguing flavours built around a structure meant to last the test of time.

Sauternes: Château de Fargues

Prince Eudes d’Orleans – CEO of Château de Fargues

Remarkably, the Lur Saluces family has been the sole owners of this property since 1586. I had the opportunity recently to spend some time with the charismatic and passionate heir of Château de Fargues and its current ambassador in Asia, Philippe de Lur Saluces, along with the current CEO of the estate Eudes d’Orleans. Balance is key for Château de Fargues, insisted Philippe, and this is notably and consistently so in the wines of this property. Never cloying, always willing to sacrifice sugary opulence for structural acidity and purity of fruit, these wines have remarkable depth and impressive ageabillity. In fact, in many vintages, the wines of Fargues have surprised me by matching or even exceeding the quality of the infamous Yquem. The Château’s CEO has as his mission to broaden the consumers’ horizon as to the enjoyment of Sauternes outside of the dessert wine realm. He suggests pairing with salads, fish, pork and even sushi. Expectedly, Château de Fargues stole the show even among the outstanding Sauternes available for tasting at the UGC, but the 2010s will not even be bottled until the fall as Fargues ages their Sauternes for 3 years prior to release. What was sampled was prematurely bottled for the tour.

Saint-Emilion: Château Troplong-Mondot

Recently (in 2006) the Château Troplong-Mondot was elevated to the status of 1er Grand Cru Classé in St. Emilion. Christine Valette, who has been widely praised for her improvement in the quality of the wine since the 1980s, oversees the winemaking. Although she has strong vision of her own, she did benefit from some consultation with the infamous Michel Rolland. I am constantly seduced by the wine of this Château, which, generally speaking, is modern in style, captivating, bold, perfumed and accessible. Despite the sometimes-criticized power and showy appeal of this stylistic approach, the wines are solidly crafted, richly textured and their appeal, in my view, is well-deserved. The sensual lure of the wine of this estate was abundantly demonstrated, despite the tightness of the 2010 vintage.

Saint-Julien: Château Gruaud Larose

This second growth classified estate, which has recently switched hands to the Merlaut family in 1997, has since established organic and sustainable vineyard practices. The vines average about 50 years in age and are planted in deep gravel soils with a distribution featuring high percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The estate is considered by many to be a “super second” rivaling the quality and reputation of the first growths. What struck me most about the 2010 were the wildly compelling aromatics that were apparent despite the restraint and classical structure typical to the vintage. The dynamic nature of this wine and its complexity was surprisingly apparent even at this youthful stage.

Margaux: Château Giscours

This third growth classified estate and neoclassical palace dates back to the 14^th century. Giscours has come in and out of favor and repute mostly due to various owners and levels of interest over the past century. Post the 1940s, its quality notably improved. Although the estate was embroiled in the Bordelaise oak chip scandal of 1998, its top tier label was cleared. I have had my eye on this property since the early 2000s and have found the quality to be quite consistent and classic in style – a reliable producer since I began tasting in 2003. The heady perfumed style of Margaux and its elegance is very well demonstrated in this well-structured example.

Julian’s Take: One of the best Vintages ever

Julian Hitner

As back-to-back vintages go, 2009 and 2010 may very well turn out to be the greatest twin vintages Bordeaux has ever experienced. Of the latter, never in my career have I tasted so many top-notch, effortlessly dazzling wines from one vintage. And while this doesn’t excuse the skyrocketing prices of many once-affordable estates, collectors may rest assured that, with very few exceptions, no matter what they procure their wines will likely be of impeccable, in some cases unprecedented quality. (For comparison, access 2009 Bordeaux Reviews here.)

The Left Bank

Along with Pessac-Léognan and Pomerol, the Left Bank played host to some of the most profound wines of 2010. In Margaux, wines from the finest estates gleamed with exemplary fragrance, texture, and body; while many of the lesser known properties seem to have utilized 2010 as an opportunity to distinguish themselves. In St-Julien, some of the most balanced, most polished wines of the vintage may be found. In Pauillac, 2010 may very well turn out to be one of the most long-lived, ‘classically’ concentrated vintages ever recorded, the finest properties realizing masterpiece after masterpiece; with less eminent operations showing remarkable improvement over previous years. In St-Estèphe, heightened concentration was a hallmark of many wines, though this hardly served to detract. As elsewhere, ripe tannins, immense structure, and unsurpassed elegance were the orders of the day.

At the same time, one cannot help but be awestruck at how well the less prestigious appellations acquitted themselves, particularly in Listrac and Moulis, where some of the best bargains are found. The same applies to more ‘blanket’ appellations like Haut-Médoc and Médoc, where most estates pulled out all the stops to craft unusually full-bodied, sometimes luxurious clarets, several of which even matched the Classed Growths. In short, wine lovers are spoiled for choice, with countless Left Bankers of considerable concentration, ample structure, and long-term ageability.

Top Recommendations for Overall Value:

Margaux: Cantenac-Brown, Dauzac, Marquis de Terme, du Tertre, and Ferrière

St-Julien: Léoville Barton, Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Pierre, Langoa Barton, and Gloria

Pauillac: Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Batailley, and Haut-Bages Libéral

St-Estèphe: Lafon-Rochet, Phélan-Ségur, and Cos Labory

Moulis-en-Médoc and Listrac-Médoc: Poujeaux, Chasse-Spleen, and Fourcas Hosten

Haut-Médoc: Sociando-Mallet, Cantemerle, and La Tour Carnet

Pessac-Léognan:

In Pessac-Léognan, 2010 will likely go down as a watershed vintage, featuring a cornucopia of spectacular whites and some of the best reds to which this part of Bordeaux has ever laid claim. Of whites, many seemed superior to the ‘09s, with just that extra level of concentration and vibrancy that went such a long way in other recent vintages like 2007 and 2005. Of reds, never before have I come across so many delicious, brilliantly textured wines from this appellation. Hard to fathom the sheer number of estates that have improved in such a short period of time. As in the Left Bank, there are many overachievers.

Top Recommendations for Overall Value:

Pessac-Léognan Rouge: Malartic-Lagravière, Carbonnieux, du Fieuzal, and Bouscaut

Pessac-Léognan Blanc: Domaine de Chevalier, Carbonnieux, and Malartic-Lagravière

The Right Bank:

Without question, 2010 was an extraordinary vintage throughout the Right Bank, particularly in Pomerol, where some of the most temptingly concentrated, flattering wines were produced. In St-Emilion, on the other hand, many examples were simply too ‘Parkerized’ for their own good; and while many North American collectors will probably appreciate their prodigious, blockbuster-like concentration and unprecedented levels of alcohol, such wines will not appeal to everybody. Regardless, there’s no question both Pomerol and St-Emilion produced many fabulous wines for the long haul, with plenty of choices to go around.

Top Recommendations for Overall Value:

Pomerol: Gazin, Beauregard, Le Bon Pasteur, La Cabanne, and La Croix de Gay

St-Emilion: La Gaffelière, La Couspaude, and Rol Valentin

Sauternes and Barsac:

At time of publication, I have no formal notes from Sauternes or Barsac, though the dozen-or-so wines I quickly examined suggest a magnificent vintage. Indeed, 2010 may very well turn out to be an even finer year than 2009 or even 2007, the latter largely panned for its reds, but not for the quality of its dry whites or dessert wines. Estates that particularly stood out were Climens, de Fargues, Guiraud, Suduiraut, and La Tour Blanche.

More Affordability Down the Road

As stupendous as the 2010s are, one mustn’t forget that not all Bordeaux is as expensive as the estates listed here. Over the next several years, dozens of more affordable 2010s shall be released at much more palatable prices. For everyday drinking, these are the wines to watch out for, though many of them will probably easily keep over the medium term. Like many serious wine collectors and general enthusiasts, I await them with relish. Stay tuned for my February column on Bordeaux prices.

In the meantime, we have posted over 100 reviews to help you with your 2010 selections: Go to 2010 Bordeaux, then be sure to click ‘show wines with zero inventory’, as these wines have not been released yet.

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Bordeaux 2010, Julian Hitner, Sara d'Amato, Union des Grands Cru, Vintages

WineAlign is pleased to introduce the WineAlign Cru

As a leading destination for wine lovers, WineAlign has added a new dimension to your interactive experience. Now, in addition to our regular critic reviews and feature articles, we have invited Ontario’s wine writing community to join our ‘crew’.  (Scroll to the bottom to see this week’s Featured Cru Member)

The Cru, which is what we’ve named our community, can be accessed directly from the WineAlign site. (You may have already noticed the addition of  ‘Our Cru’ on the page banner.) The people who make up our Cru are a selection of WineAlign bloggers and members whose passion for wine, food and travel caught our attention as we hope it will yours.

Sara d’Amato

To keep things running smoothly, WineAlign’s Sara d’Amato will act as the curator for the Cru page. She will work diligently to choose topics that are fresh and varied. We will feature new articles on a daily basis, so we hope that you will visit regularly to pick up some great tips and stories from this dedicated group of wine writers and bloggers who share your passion and interests.

Welcome to our Cru!

In December alone, WineAlign had over 185,000 unique visitors, so you can imagine how exciting it is for our Cru Members if even a fraction of you take the time to have a look at what they’re doing. We’re sure that they will be anxious to impress as evidenced by the quality of articles that they have already posted.

Have a look at the recent articles and let us know what you think. Then check back frequently for new articles and featured writers. To find out a bit more about our Cru, you can check out their profile pages by clicking their picture in the Members section.

If you are a member and wine blogger and you want to join our Cru, please send an email to: Sara@saradamato.com. (Please note that we are looking for Ontario bloggers – for now!)

Please note that our ‘Cru’ is made up of both amateur wine writers and professionals alike who report on their local wine scene, food and travels. Any views or opinions presented are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of WineAlign.

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This Week’s Featured Cru Member – April 5, 2013

Over the next few months we will be using this space to introduce you to some of our Cru Members.

This week’s Featured Cru Member:
Krista Lamb

Krista Lamb is a journalist turned communications professional who recently discovered her passion for wine. Her blog, Upkeep, explores ‘wine, body and soul’ as she writes about her experiences embarking on this wine adventure. As a confirmed newbie to the wine scene you won’t find expert opinions on her site, but you will find virtual wine tours, reviews of fun things for wine lovers to do and reports on what she’s been drinking – all through the eyes of someone new to vino.

Now that she’s a wine student, working towards her Wine Specialist certification, you might even find a few more tasting notes on her site as she starts to get the hang of how to write them.

You can read Krista’s most recent Cru article here, or see all of her posts on her Upkeep.

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Filed under: News, Wine, Sara d'Amato, wine bloggers, WineAlign Cru

Ten Wines for My Stocking; Sara’s Holiday Picks

Sara d’Amato

A bottle of wine fills a stocking to the brim and with that there is no need for any other trivial treats. My top picks for wine stuffers range from bubbly to full-bodied reds so there should be something for just about everyone on your list. Wrap the bottle in a print-out of WineAlign reviews for that wine, as we recommended on Facebook, and you have given your gift an invaluable add-on.

1. A bottle of crisp, frosty bubbles is sure to bring a smile to just about anyone’s face. My first pick for sparkling wine this season goes to Niagara producer Henry Of Pelham for their Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Blanc De Blanc 2007, Méthode Traditionnelle, at $44.95. With an elegant new packaging and significant ageing, this showstopper of a sparkler will have most Champagne lovers in disbelief.

2. At a slightly more affordable price point, my international sparkling pick is a classy, elegant Alsatian Crémant at just under $20: Ruhlmann Signature Jean Charles Brut Crémant D’Alsace, France. Utterly compelling and also beautifully packaged, this pinot blanc and auxerrois blend is abundantly flavourful and is sure to spark conversation.

3 & 4. For those of you who would like an affordable add-on, here are a couple of selections that taste nearly twice the price: Domæne Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 2011, Austria, $13.95 A stunner at this price, this spicy, classic grüner veltliner is sure fire hit for those adventurous wine lovers on your list. This wine is from a unique and very traditional winery that focuses on the monastic principles of ‘simplicity and strictness’ to create what their owners feel is a wine that is anything but uniform and homogenous. In fact, no modern technology is used at all at this winery, even pumps are disallowed so the barrels (from special locally sourced wood) are fitted with castors and are moved around the cellar when they need to be filled.

Readily available, the Caldora Sangiovese 2010, Abruzzo, Italy, $9.95 is an expressive, undeniably pleasurable sangiovese packed with character and charm. My ancestors hail partly from this rustic, wild and mountainous region of Italy bordered by the Adriatic Sea so I am always on the lookout for exceptional wines from this often undervalued region. There are great treasures to be found in Abruzzo, and over the years many boutique wineries have been established who are producing very polished wines.

5. If you feel the need to splurge, this is a wine that will certainly impress. Having made me swoon, I can certainly recommend this bottle as a present to your sweetie. Great pinot noir can bring you to your knees and this Marsannay from Louis Jadot Domaine Gagey Clos Du Roi 2009, Burgundy, France ($34.95) might just be the ticket for a holiday proposal. Regardless of your motives, this highly recommended bottle hails from an outlying Burgundian appellation on the northern edge of the Cote d’Or. It is exceptionally balanced and offers solid mid-term cellaring potential.

6 & 7. For the more advanced wineaux, offer a pair of wines that beg for a comparative tasting. Thomas Bacheleder, formerly winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne, but also well known for his accomplishments in Oregon and with Boisset in Burgundy, has released a set of chardonnays from carefully chosen cool climate regions. Currently available are his creations from the Willamette Valley in Oregon: Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2010, ($29.95) and Niagara Peninsula’s: Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2010, ($29.95). Open these side by side at the table for a result that is sure to provoke great conversation.

8. Oozing with sensual power, one of my top international picks at under $25 this year is: Descendientes De J. Palacios Pétalos 2010, Bierzo, Spain. Thankfully, there are still enough bottles remaining that you can find a smattering across the GTA as well as across the rest of the province. The wine is made from 100% mencía – a floral, peppery and full-flavoured varietal known for its exceptional old vines plantings in the region of Bierzo, in northwest Spain, thought to have been an import of the French pilgrims during the middle ages. Iconic Spanish winemaker and innovator Alvaro Palacios and his cousin Ricardo named the winery after Alvaro’s inspirational father (and Ricardo’s godfather). Biodynamically produced with a minimal French barrique ageing and no fining or filtration, this assemblage of several villages around Corullón is an exceptional example of the fleshy, generous and approachable nature of the mencía grape.

9. The Dão region, located in central Portugal, isolated by granitic mountainous borders to the north, south and east, produces some of the most innovative and exciting wines in the country. Although we do not see a great deal of Dão wines in the province, I keep my eyes peeled and am careful to taste any examples that will grace our Vintages shelves. The Encostas De Penalva 2009, Portugal, ($14.95) is an indigenous blend of touriga nacional, aragonez and jaen that offers considerable depth, grip and enticing aromatics for the price. The spice and floral notes in this wine will complement wintery, festive menus of all sorts.

10. Finally, what holiday list would be complete without a selection of Ontario’s most esteemed export, Icewine. This is perhaps my favourite Icewine in recent memory and I am thrilled that is still available in reasonable quantities at Vintages. Even if you rarely appreciate this style of wine and consider it overwhelmingly sweet, you cannot help but be charmed by this exquisite riesling from Stratus: Stratus Riesling Icewine 2008 (200ml – $29.95). Balance is key to achieve greatness in this category and the best examples realize a dynamic interplay of sugar and acids to produce an exciting tension. Here is a terrific specimen that illustrates this quality quite successfully.

Very Happy Holidays to you and your family. May your stockings be thoughtfully filled!

Until next year,

Sara d’Amato

For a complete list of Sara’s reviews, visit Sara d’Amato on WineAlign

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Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, LCBO, Sara d'Amato, Vintages, Wine

Battle of the Corkscrews: By Sara d’Amato

Canada’s Top Sommeliers Vie for the National Title

Sara d’Amato

On Sept 17th & 18th in Halifax, some of the country’s top Sommeliers willingly arrived to be evaluated by their peers and by the public in the hopes of securing the title of Canada’s Best Sommelier. The competition, hosted by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (“CAPS”) and sponsored by Inniskillin Wine welcomed the past competition winners of all three chapters: Ontario, Quebec and the Atlantic provinces. Journalists from across the country were invited to cover this landmark event that was judged by an impressive panel of esteemed Sommeliers such as WineAlign’s John Szabo, M.S., Jennifer Huether, M.S., and the CAPS provincial chapter presidents.

As a board member of CAPS helping to organize the competition, I was afforded a front row seat to the two-day affair that took place at the Delta Halifax. Taking place at the same time, just outside of Halifax in Grand Pre, was the annual Chef’s Congress. Nova Scotia was thus home to many of the country’s top palates that weekend, all of whom were warmly welcomed.

Will Predhomme

On to the competitors . . . six illustrious sommeliers qualified to compete in their respective provinces which included Robert Noel of deja BU! In New Brunswick, representing the Atlantic, Will Predhomme of Toronto’s Canoe Restaurant, and Bruce Wallner MS of Toronto’s Mideastro, representing Ontario, Elyse Lambert at Montreal’s Le Local, Veronique Rivest, wine columnist for Radio-Canada and Journal Le Droit, and Bertrand Eichel of Montreal’s Le 357c representing Quebec. However, only three finalists resulted from the first day’s written competition:  Will Predhomme, Elyse Lambert and Veronique Rivest. The high level of expertise made for a tight race to the finals. None of the competitors were aware of their standings until noon the next day, immediately prior to performing their final skill testing hurdle before a live audience.

To give you an idea of some of the questions the sommeliers were faced with, I’ve included a few examples below. Test yourself to see where you stand . . . answers can be found at the end of the article.

1. Who established the Hospices de Beaune and in which year?

2. List the 9 vintages of Chateau d’Yquem that were NOT produced in the 20th century (1900-1999):

3. Put the following Chilean D.O.’s in order from North to South

Aconcagua – Bio Bio – Curico – Itata – Limari – Maipo – Maule – Rapel

Don’t feel bad if you’re 0/0 – These are anxiety-inducing for most professionals as well.

The finalists had one hour each to perform tasks such as decanting, sparkling wine service, oral blind tasting, pouring feats, food and wine recommendations and wine list correction, all in a restaurant-staged setting complete with a maître d’hôtel and several waiting tables. The time went fast and the competitors were obviously sweating. The competition was streamed live on novascotiawebcams.com where we bumped the feed of the ever popular lobster  trap cam and gave it a run for its money in terms of viewership. Over a thousand people tuned in to see the finalists face off.

There was enormous support from across the country as words of encouragement and performance comments from viewers lit up the Twitter-sphere. Being the national qualifying round of the sommelier Olympics, the event did indeed feel like a competitive sport accompanied by all the sweat, tears and drama that you may expect.

Elyse Lambert

As a spectator and a professional in this business, it is absolutely nail-biting to watch these courageous sommeliers put their reputations on the line and be judged by their peers and community. It is so incredibly important that they do so as it inspires a whole new potential group of competitors and strengthens our profession and our professional identity in this country and the world. It is simple to make a mistake, especially when a sweaty palm caused by nerves can lead you to lose grip on a cork or spill a glass of wine. An equally suspenseful situation arises from on-the-spot questions pitted at the competitors in service as  there are no restrictions on what can be asked. If the answer is not known than it is up to the sommelier to answer as gracefully as possible without letting it affect their performance. If that isn’t pressure enough, being afforded a set amount of limiting time for each feat certainly had these sommeliers sweating. Just to crank it up a notch higher, the competitors were required to compete in a language other than their own. Finalists Elyse and Veronique were able to compete with ease in English and had both worked in this language prior but Will chose to compete in Spanish, with which he was more at ease than in French but had never worked in this language before.

The rewards, however, are great and included $10,000 cash + $5,000 in wines offered by the SAQ, a weekend in Toronto/Niagara for a full training program with John Szabo (MS) & Jennifer Huether (MS) Offered by Inniskillin, a trip to Italy offered by By the Glass & Tenuta Caparzo, a Stressless Corkscrew Offered by Trudeau, a Decantus Offered by Vinearus, a Magnum of Treana Offered by Hope Family Wines, Trudeau accessories and an engraved Riedel decanter from The Wine Establishment. But the most important prize is no doubt the haute prestige and right to compete in both the competition of the Americas in Brazil as well to represent Canada in the World’s Best Sommelier Competition taking place next year in Japan was the most coveted of prizes.

Véronique Rivest pictured here between judge Del Rollo and Jessica Harnois

The finalists’ performances were quite tight and I found it difficult to call the winner. After careful deliberation, the substantial team of judges, who had all angles covered, determined Veronique Rivest’s winning status. Del Rollo of Inniskillin and also a judge in the competition bestowed the title upon Veronique at a gala dinner the same evening over an Inniskillin Icewine toast. This veneration is not new to Veronique as she has won this competition in the past and was a competitor in the 2006 world sommelier competition. By all accounts, she delivered an exceptional performance. I look forward to reporting on the upcoming World Sommelier Competition, taking place in Japan in 2013. It is unlikely I will be fortunate enough to travel to the trenches in person as I did for the Canadian Competition, but I will ensure to provide as close to a play-by-play as possible of our national team.

There was no rest for the winners as the Pan American competition took place last week in Bento Gonçalves, Brazil on October 24^th, 2012. Rivest and Predhomme both qualified to compete and the best Sommelier of 19 competitors went to our homegrown Veronique Rivest. She ranked first in front of Ian Caube from the U.S.A. and Thiago Locatelli of Brazil in the grand finale. Therefore, Veronique Rivest will be representing the Americas while Will Prehomme will be representing Canada in next year’s World Sommelier Competition in Japan.

Wishing these brave ambassadors the best of luck!

Answers

Question 1: Nicolas Rolin. 1443; Question 2: 1910/1915/1930/1951/1952/1964/1972/1974/1992; Question 3: North: Limari/Aconcagua/Maipo/Rapel/Curico/Maule/Itata/Bio Bio

Filed under: Featured Articles, Wine, Best Canadian Sommelier Competition, Sara d'Amato

Thanksgiving Dinner with Sara d’Amato

Vibrant and Savory Selections Fit for a Thanksgiving Feast

Sara d’Amato

If the chill in the air and the beautiful colours above aren’t indication enough, then the sudden cravings for pumpkin pie and tart cranberries are clues that the Thanksgiving season is upon us again. To most people Thanksgiving means entertaining, and entertaining brings forth either the delight or dread of choosing wine for a group of varied guests. In order to free ourselves from the chains of routine and tradition, this year, I propose a Thanksgiving without the usual suspects. By this I mean, freeing the table from the safety of chardonnay and pinot noir and looking towards less traditional varietals and regions.

Many people find choosing a wine for this occasion fraught with difficulty because one never wants to spend too much for fear that there will be several guests in attendance who won’t appreciate those choices but don’t want to disappoint those with more discriminating palates along with your own tastes (and if you’re reading this article, you have some interest in wines of quality). Keeping those aspects in mind, I will recommend a series of wines that are sure to fit the bill and keep everyone as happy and appreciative as they should be.

A grape that is not commonly associated with Thanksgiving feasts but should be is Austria’s star white, grüner veltliner. Its nose of quince and wildflowers and palate of spicy, white pepper and wild herbal notes make a perfect accompaniment to roasted bird. It is generally light enough to be served as a conversation-starting aperitif as well as less common addition to your holiday table. I love that a great example of this wine can almost play the role of a spice, seasoning or condiment to your dish – a completely integrated pairing. My suggestion is a lovely new release by Rudolf Rabl, the Löss Grüner Veltliner 2011, Kamptal, Austria ($13.95). Rabl is one of Austria’s most recognized producers of grüner veltliner and has been widely celebrated internationally. The “Loss” grüner is planted in loose, well-drained soils that are perfectly suited to the varietal and give the wine a supple approachability without sacrificing varietal traits – a superb value.

Another wine often missing from such celebrations is Vouvray. Made entirely from chenin blanc (otherwise known as pineau de la Loire) and a region known for its substantial network of underground limestone cellars, Vouvray produces distinct and memorable wines that range from sweet to dry to sparkling. Admittedly, the wine can be an acquired taste but it is well worth the effort. A little information for your guests with respect to its unique flavour profile will likely both be interesting and will lend greater appreciation to this fascinating and very food friendly wine. My particular recommendation, the 2010 Domaine De Vaugondy Dry Vouvray, Loire, France ($14.95), is dry and fresh with gorgeous dried herbal notes, a touch of honeyed flavour and is substantial enough to pair with rich sauces and gravies. The varietal is distinctively richly flavoured, with savory herbs, often an earthiness and a waxy mouthfeel. When planted in the varied soils of the Vouvray, chenin blanc can be either pleasantly fruity or mineral driven. This version has a great balance of both the above characteristics and delivers superb value.

Barbera is a fantastic grape to accompany a Thanksgiving meal as it is so approachable and most often reasonably priced. Its juicy, fleshy and satisfying nature make it an easy crowd pleaser while an example with good balance, characteristic medium-bodied weight and fresh vibrancy make it versatile at the table. Using descriptors like vibrant and food-friendly can make one shy away with the conclusion that the wine is tart, unfriendly and requires food. However, Barbera, in many situations, makes a great sipper as well as a smart food partner, because its acids are balanced by fleshy, generous fruit flavours. This recommendation showcases the best of the varietal with an exceptionally enticing nose: Clemente Cossetti & Figli La Vigna Vecchia Barbera D’Asti 2009, Piedmont, Italy ($16.95)

Chile’s star export, carmenère, finds a comfortable place at the table any night of the week, but given the chance to be showcased at a festive occasion is surely its rightful place. Carmenère is a wonderfully versatile grape (the key word when it comes to pairing with a multitude of traditional menus) that exhibits a spicy, floral and earthy nose and boasts great intensity of flavours on a medium to full-bodied frame. Savoury umami, one of the more elusive of the basic tastes (distinct from ‘salty’ and often found in Asian foods and ripe tomatoes) also often makes up the flavour profile of carmenère. When I have difficulty pairing a red wine to food, I often look to this unique varietal. A terrific new release, the 2009 Terranoble Gran Reserva Carmenère, Maule Valley, Chile ($17.95),  demonstrates the great appeal of this distinctive and flavourful varietal.

My final recommendation is a meaty wine that delivers the intensity that many red wine drinkers appreciate at the dinner table regardless of the meal. If you opt for prime rib or a roast instead of a bird, you will require a substantial, satisfying wine such as Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Maximilien Cairanne 2010, Rhône, France ($21.95). Cairrane is a typical southern Rhône blend dominated by grenache, mourvedre, carignan and syrah. It is generally quite ripe and generous and grown on the flatter, hot plains which intensify the Mediterranean flavours often felt in wines of southern France. Notes of garrigue (wild, dried herbs, lavender, earth and underbrush) add another layer of complexity in this example. Thankfully it is also a very good value.

Acidity and savory herbal notes have been a theme in this year’s holiday recommendations. Remember that acidity doesn’t necessarily mean tart – in fact, in a balanced wine (best to accompany food), the result is a terrifically approachable wine that won’t leave you full. Acidity is also necessary to give the wine the edge and grip it requires to cut through rich flavours. And herbal does not necessarily mean green – in all of these examples, the herbal note lends a savory element to the wine that balances the juicy fruit and complements the big, aromatic dishes that often find their way to a holiday table.

Wishing you happy feasts and plenty of merriment this weekend,

Sara

Filed under: News, Wine, Food Pairing, Sara d'Amato, Thanksgiving, Wine

Rediscovering Provence with Sara d’Amato

Sara d’Amato

My yearly pilgrimage to this beloved region of the South of France is always too fleeting, as there is more to discover than one ever has time for. Even after 30 years of traveling to the same destination of the village of Avignon (though admittedly, for a number of those I was a little young for wine appreciation, even by French standards) it amazes me that I am still discovering new regions, sites and villages surrounding the area. (My father – a professor of English and drama – had a research interest in the Marquis de Sade, meaning that I spent most summers, and two full-year sabbaticals, frequenting the Marquis’ homeland with my family). As an adult, I returned to France to complete my winemaking internship and now bring my two toddlers to our homestead as a summer tradition.

Viret Site

During these yearly stays, ambition to explore the region further is sometimes quelled by the relaxing pace of the Southern French and of course, the unrelenting heat that requires afternoon repose; however, despite a desire to stay put at a café, I was determined to revisit some memorable spots and discover new haunts this time around. A casual visit to Tavel, a trek into the mountainous region of the Drôme to see the temple built for wine of Philippe Viret and a memorable tasting at Château Beaucastel with Thomas Perrin were some of the highlights of my month-long stay. With a great deal to pass on, I will here distill what you may not know about Provence.

Before getting to the meat of it, I would like to acknowledge that we have featured heavily the wines of the Southern Rhône here at WineAlign over the past month but this is simply due to the exceptional quality of these wines currently available at the LCBO. This in turn is at least in part due to the remarkable vintages of 2009 and 2010 that showcase the extraordinary power and character of this region but also the surprising elegance that can arise from such vintages. Unfortunately, these vintages are framed by the challenging years of 2008 and 2011. Producers of the south report having to declassify a significant portion of wine from the elevated appellations this past year. We can expect is a great deal of good value Côtes-du-Rhône and a savings in your pocket from this upcoming 2011 vintage release yet to grace our shelves. Without further ado, let’s have a look at the major southern appellations through a tasting with the proprietor of Famille Perrin wines.

An Appellation Education with Thomas Perrin

Although this was not the first time I’ve had the opportunity to visit Château Beaucastel, visits to this prestigious Château always yield new knowledge and insight into the Southern Rhône. It is not a generalization to state that the wines of the Northern Rhône – appellations such as Cote Rotie and Hermitage – have a much greater reverence in our North American minds than the sunny appellations of the south. Many of us are stumped at being able to name more than one appellation and when it comes to telling the differences, most of us are at a loss.  We’re in good company; however, as most of the local French I spoke to had a hard time describing the unique properties of their southern appellations. Names such as Cairanne and Rasteau may sound familiar, and so they should, but knowing that they refer to villages along the Rhône that represent unique features of the terroir may not be in your databank (perhaps they are and you are all the better for it). Therefore, ripe for discovery at prices that the north can’t beat, the appellations of the Southern Rhône can thrill, charm and excite.

Thanks to the newly renamed “Famille Perrin” brand, a full collection of Southern Rhône, appellation-specific wines are now all available in Ontario through Vintages. Using these examples, I’ve outlined some of the unique characters of five of the most revered appellation that often fall in the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Reviews of these wines and availability can be found here.

I was fortunate to have had to opportunity to sit down with proprietor Thomas Perrin who tasted through the complete portfolio of Perrin (all of which are available at LCBO/Vintages). The insight he imparted was tremendous. Out of respect for the limits of the reader’s attention span, I have outlined what I believe will be of greatest use. The following are descriptions of what you can expect sensorially from wines of these red-focused appellations.

Vinsobres

Wines from this region grow on higher elevations on the slopes of the valley. This is where syrah thrives in the Southern Rhône due both to the cooler temperature influences and the rocky, gravely soil, which has a greater affinity to the varietal. Wines here tend to be spicy with great depth and intensity, much more akin to the unblended syrah wines of the Northern Rhône. Although grenache is still planted in large quantities on these slopes, a higher percentage of syrah is planted here in the vineyards of Perrin than other of the appellation series wines.

Vacqueyras

Vacqueyras is rich with sandy soils and is a region favored with excessive heat. Grenache reigns supreme here and makes up 80% of the blend. The wines of Vacqueyras tend to be more muscular and require more substantial food pairings. Although the wines of Vacqueyras lack some of the elegance and prestige of Gigondas, falling in the shadow of the latter’s greatness, terrific value can still be found in them, especially for those who appreciate a more powerful style of red.

Gigondas

After Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas is one of the most distinguished appellations of the Southern Rhône. Prices are generally just slightly less than those of Châteauneuf. Vineyards are located on the slopes of the valley on calcareous and clay-rich terraces and are subject to more significant wind, which temper the wines. Both power and freshness makes this a wine of great depth and finesse.

Cairrane

The vineyards of Cairanne are located on flat, hot ground or low altitude slopes and are made up of a significant amount of clay.  Grenache thrives here and the wines are often bold, approachable and chewy. The wines of Cairanne typically have great character, generosity and are widely appealing.

Rasteau

Rasteau is perhaps the most rustic or wild of the southern appellations and often features a touch of volatility along with good levels of natural acidity but also very ripe flavours. Made almost entirely from grenache grown on clay and limestone rich hillsides, this appellation has only recently been elevated from village status to an AOC in its own right.

An Afternoon in Tavel

Tavel

The region of Tavel, a 20 minute drive northwest of Avignon (that is if you make all the correct turns at the dizzying rond-points), is home to the world’s most famous rosés. And rosés are all you will find. This highly specialized appellation, almost directly across the Rhône from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, turns grenache, cinsault, syrah and mourvèdre into fragrant, dry and often ageworthy styles of rosé. Not only was Tavel preferred by the likes of Louis XIV and Balzac, but it is the beverage of choice for men and women of the region all summer long. Refreshing, revered and versatile with food, it is a tough beverage to compete with. However, don’t expect anything too cutting edge from Tavel. It stands quite heavily on its reputation, and its traditional style reigns supreme. That being said, it is a worthy trip and generally fairly open to tourists without necessitating appointments.

If you would like to try a sampling of Tavels from organic to award-winning as well as distinctive wines of the surrounding region of Lirac, the local cooperative that pools together the resources of 60 growers, produces a range of highly satisfying wines that will give you a great starting point. Also, if you’re travelling with kids who are surely not as passionate about the tasting bar as you, there is an indoor play area that is sure to occupy the little tikes long enough for a thorough dégustation. Unfortunately, we do not see these reasonably-priced example that often in the LCBO, but a couple of noteworthy examples currently available include:

Château D’aquéria Tavel Rosé 2011, Ac, Rhone, France, 319368, $18.95
One of the prettiest estates in the small region, Chateau d’Aqueria resides just on the village outskirts and is fortunately well marked and welcoming to visitors.

Famille Perrin Tavel Rosé 2011, Ac, Rhone, France, 680801, $19.95 In good supply this summer through Vintages, the Famille Perrin Tavel is a terrific and consistent example of this traditional and respected rosé.

The Fascinating Cosmos of Domaine Viret

Fascinated by the complex and seemingly mysterious wines of biodynamic culture? Then get ready for the latest viticultural and winemaking movement, that of ‘Cosmoculture’. A practice created and currently used exclusively by the wines of Domaine Viret, is located in the mountainous upper regions of the Southern Rhône.  These wines are unlike anything you’ve ever tasted before.

Intrigued by an earlier report by my colleague, John Szabo, I set up an appointment with owner Philippe Viret (whose father began charting the course of Cosmoculture decades ago) and his export director, Christophe Mingeaud. Admittedly, I thought the guy would be, well, somewhat distracted from reality, but what I discovered was one of the most reasonable people I’d ever met.

The winery is located in what is known as the Drôme, the region surrounding and including the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains (they are the foothills of the highest, picturesque peak of Mont Ventoux), about an hour north of Avignon near the town of Vaison-la-Romaine. Although the vineyards have been in the family for several generations now, the winery was built in the mid-90’s and its location very carefully chosen, directly above a natural water source on the property. Philippe’s father was a water wizard by trade and became fascinated by the knots of energy created by water pressure in the ground. Much of the viticultural practices are based on the counterbalance of these pressure points.

After spending the better part of the day with Viret I was able to comprehend merely the tip of the iceberg of the philosophy and practices of Cosmoculture. I was therefore elated to find that Viret believes it takes about 10 years to develop a full comprehension of Cosmoculture as it relates to a particular site.  I will attempt to provide a basic overview of these principles, as described by the winery.

Philippe and his father Alain have developed a theory based on ancient energetic fields existing on their property. While merging organic and biodynamic principles, Cosmoculture allows for the inclusion of bio-energetic principles in an attempt to balance, re-engergize and preserve existing ecosystems. Water is at the heart of these principles as it is the life sustaining force behind all organisms and living cells. The individual, or man, is a fundamental element in the sphere of Cosmoculture. Fields of telluric and cosmic energy link man, vegetation, and animals.

Sounds a little fanciful? If the careful attention to scientific method and the resulting wines of Domaine Viret are any indication, this practice is much more grounded, meticulous, perceptive and reasonable than its lofty description would have you believe.

Very well versed in the practices of biodynamic winemaking, the winery was certified for many years. Although Viret still has tremendous respect for the practice, several issues that were not addressed by biodynamic practices led him away from this strict application of preparations. Specifically, the Virets wanted to engage more rigorously with the scientific method, experimenting and studying to ensure that the preparations made sense for the needs of a particular site. Furthermore, biodynamic practices did not quite take into account the Viret’s particular interest in what they believe are the various fields of energy and internal pressure points of the vineyard. Although the Virets have trademarked the practice of Cosmoculture, it is not their intention to commercialize the practice. They are heavily involved in training local grape growers (as they buy from them for their entry level wines) and hope that those who come to train will benefit in some way from their strategies.

Viret Ancient Amphora Vessel

Instead of oak barrels, the mighty and ancient amphora vessel has long been used by Viret to age wine. Inspired by Sicilian tradition, Viret decided that these vessels would be well worth experimenting with in his winery, but was determined to do clay his way. The amphorae are now crafted by a local artisan in the nearby village and incorporate a small amount of local earth to make local, focal. However, due to the fact that the clay in the area doesn’t quite strike the right consistency or degree of porousness, (and much experimentation has been done), a large component of the clay comes from Burgundy. Viret has also played with the shape, enhancing the egg-shaped property of the vessel to adhere to the Golden Mean, a mathematically ‘divine’ proportion found naturally in the egg shape as well as the womb and some seeds. The value of this shape, from a wine-aging perspective anyway, is that the wine cools faster in the narrower top portion than in the wider bottom portion. The clay-cooled, denser wine sinks to the bottom, forcing the warmer liquid to rise through the center, achieving a continual cycle of energy, eliminating stagnation. This ‘golden’ shape is used throughout the winery strategically. These unique vessels are now in high demand throughout Europe, a side-effect of which is that Viret has become an amphora dealer of sorts.

Viret Amphora with Sara

Not all the wines are amphorae aged – some are aged and fermented in large oak containers called foudres, that are lined with cement. Cement tanks are preferred due to the naturally mineral content they impart. Mineral character and freshness are the driving forces behind the strikingly intense verve and energy in these wines and truly sets them apart from traditionally styled wines. Because natural acidity is limited in the grapes of this hot climate, heightened minerality is coaxed out the varietals in order to boost the acid levels and add freshness. The resulting wines have an ethereal electricity about them that is quite surprising and unusual.

The complex practices are too great to outline but have been carefully described by Philippe in a book on the practice that is near completion. But what is most immediately stunning are the visuals of the temple to wine that the Virets have built. I have already mentioned that the location of the winery was specifically chosen, but the materials used and the sheer grandeur of the edifice is quite remarkable. Once again, drawing on ancient tradition from Roman to Egyptian, over a thousand, large 6 tonne stones from the quarry that built the free-standing Roman aqueduct of the Pont du Guard, and cut on premises, make up the walls of this palace. The thick walls make for a naturally cool interior despite the searing heat of the exterior. Chambers for the larger amphora above ground exist already and the chambers for the smaller, buried amphora are currently under construction. A magnificent dining and presentation hall, an ingeniously curved wine cellar for library bottles, a state of the art kitchen, and a stunning terrace with a 360 degree view of the valley are either complete or very shortly on their way to being so.

So, if all you got out of this account is that these wines are, well, different and worth discoveries, then that’s all you need to know.  A complete list of reviews of the wines of Viret, imported by Tannin Fine Wines, can be viewed here.

From celebrated, stalwart traditionalists to the innovative and avant-garde, the Southern Rhône is full of personalities and a terrific range of wines. With more to discover than can be imagined, there is never a dull moment when travelling to this aromatic and sunny part of the world. Luckily, these days, this diversity is in great part, available no further than the LCBO.

Filed under: Wine, France, Provence, Sara d'Amato, Southern Rhône, Tavel

An Exclusive Event with Grant Burge – Sept 13th, Toronto

WineAlign is pleased to kick off our fall events program with an exclusive tutored tasting with the legendary Grant Burge.

Grant Burge is a fifth-generation Barossa Vigneron. Throughout his career, Grant has been one of the most respected and innovative forces in the Australian wine industry. The history of the Burge family and their long association with winemaking in the region can be traced back to March 1855, today Grant and his family now carries the winemaking traditions into the 21st century.

Grant Burge

Grant Burge Wines was formed in 1988 by Grant and his wife Helen, and is located in the heart of the Barossa Valley on the banks of Jacobs Creek and is still proudly family owned. Continuing the family tradition, Grant and Helen have now brought the sixth generation into the fold. All three children share Grant and Helen’s vision to continue this long family tradition of bringing exceptional wines to the world.

“I am a romantic, and I have a real sense of my family history, of my father and grandfather, and what they achieved.” Grant Burge

WineAlign’s Sara d’Amato will MC the evening:  ”Grant Burge draws on a wealth of extensive family experience and passion to produce wines from some of the most revered vineyard sites in the Barossa.”

Purchase tickets here

Date & Time:
Sept. 13th, 6-9pm
6-6:45pm: Reception w/Canapes
6:45-8pm: Seated Tutored Tasting
8-9pm:  Enjoy wines with Hors D’Oeuvres

Venue:
Arcadian Lofts
401 Bay Street, Simpson Tower, 8th Floor, Toronto

Price:
$65 + Fees + HST

Wines:
Moscato Frizzante (reception)
5th Generation Shiraz
5th Generation Cabernet Merlot
Miamba Shiraz (Vineyard Range)
Summers Chardonnay (Vineyard Range)
The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (Wines of Distinction)
Filsell Shiraz (Wines of Distinction)
Corryton Park Cabernet Sauvignon (Wines of Distinction)

Purchase tickets here

Rated 5 RED STAR Winery 5 Years in a row.   James Halliday, 2013 Australian Wine Companion

Click on the wine bottles for a brief video featuring Grant:

 

IMPORTANT:  Our winemaker events have been consistently and quickly selling out.  If you are interested in attending then we advise you to purchase your tickets as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Filed under: News, Wine, toronto, Sara d'Amato, Grant Burge, Tutored Tasting